I might be the only person who has already skied at two Tahoe ski resorts this season. I skied the morning at Heavenly and the afternoon at Rose, and thought I'd share my impressions on the skiing and also how each of these resorts is operating so far wrt to the pandemic.
First, the last snowstorm was mostly rain below 7000 feet, and there must have been a good bit of rain mixed in until around 8500 feet. Above that there is a marked improvement in coverage and snow quality, and over 9000 feet the snow quality is very good with coverage good enough to ski off piste. This means that Squaw, Northstar, Sugar Bowl, and lower elevation backcountry areas like Castle Peak are probably not in great shape right now. Heavenly snow was OK because only the upper mountain was open (starting over 8000 feet), and Rose was excellent especially at the top.
Heavenly had 2 trails open, and one was just a beginner run to access the "primary" run, Ridge Run under Canyon chair. So basically everyone was lapping a single run served by a single lift. Despite Vail ostensibly limiting visitor counts by requiring advance reservations -- and their claim that they are especially restricting visitors in the early season -- it was crowded at Heavenly. I waited 45 minutes in a line to pick up my pass, then waited up to 30 minutes to get on the lift. The lines were not socially distanced and despite a zillion signs telling people to wear face coverings, many people kept their buffs under their noses, some tucked under their chins. Also the Canyon chair is a quad, but it was organized into one singles line and one "group line." There was no one from Heavenly directing traffic, and no one knew how to load the lifts because the policy is that a single should only ride with another single, not with a group. So it made no sense to have one singles line and one group line merge into the same loading zone. The open run was crowded, as expected when it's the only way down. Things didn't feel particularly risky in term of contagion because everything was outside and it was breezy, but it also felt like there was a big disconnect between Vail Corporate (which has put signs everywhere instructing people on social distancing and face coverings) and what was happening on the ground (employees were not enforcing). While it felt good to be out on the mountain, overall it was not a very satisfying ski experience and didn't instill a lot of confidence in Vail's ability to execute when the season starts in earnest.
Rose was a better experience, both in terms of the skiing and pandemic safety. The mountain is open top to bottom and has something like a dozen ways down. The crowd level was lower, and at the bottom of the lifts there was a liftie organizing chair loading. There were two singles lines on opposite sides of the main line, and the liftie alternated chairs between pre-formed groups and two singles sitting on opposite ends of the chair. They had a box of face masks for guests who showed up without one. Not everyone in the lift lines consistently wore their coverings, though, and many others removed their coverings as soon as they loaded the lift. The mountain policy is that coverings are required both in line and on the lift. Despite it sometimes feeling awkward to ask one's chairmate to put their mask back on, everyone complied when I asked them.
The biggest challenge is going to be how the resorts manage lift lines when the lifts are loading at 33-50% capacity. I doubt the resorts will be limiting guest visits by half or two thirds, so lift lines will likely be much longer this season. Rose did fine today, but I suspect that was because it was the first day of the season and they deliberately didn't announce that they would be opening until this morning.
Lots of backcountry tracks across the highway in the Mt Rose Wilderness. Still a bit thin coverage for the steep stuff, but mellower routes looked prime. There were a *lot* of people out there, though, especially for a weekday in November. It'll be interesting to see just how crowded the backcountry will be this season, and how the backcountry newbies fare with regards to snow safety.