Speaking of things that can't be unseen.
Dull edges would be my guess.Finally got on a pair of these. (Rossi FIS SLs, not half-nuddy snowboarders). The rebound was most splendid, as was the turn entry, but the tips didn't feel like the tips of a slalom ski to me, in that they felt plasticy on windblown hardpack and ice, like the tips of a badly made cheater GS ski, and didn't have the same slicing feeling I'm used to from two pairs of Heads. I also struggled to pull off a thin carved track - it felt carved, but when I checked, the tracks were always a couple of inches wide. So I tried skiing on one ski on the flat, and even then the ski wanted to come away from the inside edge. I'd blame the tune, but it was 87/0.5 tip to tail. I'd blame the snow, but it was mostly very grippy stuff. I'd blame me, but I've been gripping fine with a Rossi GS ski in all conditions all season. I'd blame the binding position, but I moved it back and on the line was better. Only other thing I can think of is a lack of torsional stability, but that seems unlikely from a Rossi FIS SL. Any ideas?
First thing I looked for. They were top, tip to tail.Dull edges would be my guess.
I would move it forward.Finally got on a pair of these. (Rossi FIS SLs, not half-nuddy snowboarders). The rebound was most splendid, as was the turn entry, but the tips didn't feel like the tips of a slalom ski to me, in that they felt plasticy on windblown hardpack and ice, like the tips of a badly made cheater GS ski, and didn't have the same slicing feeling I'm used to from two pairs of Heads. I also struggled to pull off a thin carved track - it felt carved, but when I checked, the tracks were always a couple of inches wide. So I tried skiing on one ski on the flat, and even then the ski wanted to come away from the inside edge. I'd blame the tune, but it was 87/0.5 tip to tail. I'd blame the snow, but it was mostly very grippy stuff. I'd blame me, but I've been gripping fine with a Rossi GS ski in all conditions all season. I'd blame the binding position, but I moved it back and on the line was better. Only other thing I can think of is a lack of torsional stability, but that seems unlikely from a Rossi FIS SL. Any ideas?
Finally got on a pair of these. (Rossi FIS SLs, not half-nuddy snowboarders). The rebound was most splendid, as was the turn entry, but the tips didn't feel like the tips of a slalom ski to me, in that they felt plasticy on windblown hardpack and ice, like the tips of a badly made cheater GS ski, and didn't have the same slicing feeling I'm used to from two pairs of Heads. I also struggled to pull off a thin carved track - it felt carved, but when I checked, the tracks were always a couple of inches wide. So I tried skiing on one ski on the flat, and even then the ski wanted to come away from the inside edge. I'd blame the tune, but it was 87/0.5 tip to tail. I'd blame the snow, but it was mostly very grippy stuff. I'd blame me, but I've been gripping fine with a Rossi GS ski in all conditions all season. I'd blame the binding position, but I moved it back and on the line was better. Only other thing I can think of is a lack of torsional stability, but that seems unlikely from a Rossi FIS SL. Any ideas?
As James said, move the binding forward. I have a pair of Head Sl RD's that I bought slightly used and hated the ski(they did not want to turn past the fall line) until I moved the bindings forward and wow did they come alive. I suspect the previous owner hated the ski as well as the skis had no time on them and that is probably why I was able to buy them cheap.No idea what you are on about mate. Did you get yours from alibaba?
As a skier, over-educated engineer, and carvaholic, I can imagine two reasons for the behaviour you describe, besides your hypothesis.Finally got on a pair of these. (Rossi FIS SLs, not half-nuddy snowboarders). The rebound was most splendid, as was the turn entry, but the tips didn't feel like the tips of a slalom ski to me, in that they felt plasticy on windblown hardpack and ice, like the tips of a badly made cheater GS ski, and didn't have the same slicing feeling I'm used to from two pairs of Heads. I also struggled to pull off a thin carved track - it felt carved, but when I checked, the tracks were always a couple of inches wide. So I tried skiing on one ski on the flat, and even then the ski wanted to come away from the inside edge. I'd blame the tune, but it was 87/0.5 tip to tail. I'd blame the snow, but it was mostly very grippy stuff. I'd blame me, but I've been gripping fine with a Rossi GS ski in all conditions all season. I'd blame the binding position, but I moved it back and on the line was better. Only other thing I can think of is a lack of torsional stability, but that seems unlikely from a Rossi FIS SL. Any ideas?
Yeah that’s pretty much what mine did. It just felt like so much force coming back from the forebody that you had to over power it. In 3-D corn it was fairly scary. In contrast, the Blizzard I was used to you could eat a sandwich and have a conversation while skiing that same snow.I have a pair of Head Sl RD's that I bought slightly used and hated the ski(they did not want to turn past the fall line)
Me skiing like a twat would certainly solve the mystery, and is certainly the most likely scenario. I'll definitely be giving them another go if they're available.As a skier, over-educated engineer, and carvaholic, I can imagine two reasons for the behaviour you describe, besides your hypothesis.
You need more force digging that edge into the snow for the amount of sideways force the turn you dial up demands.
This could be you, not applying that force (many reasons - used to GS not SL, not enough up and down with in sync timing, not trying to rotate skis in opposite direction, trying to turn body before enough ski length is established in new groove, etc.).
This could also be ski longitudinal flex too soft for your weight and turn demand, causing tips to "fold up" a bit on you.
Of course you could be right and the ski may be too soft torsionally, but that is unlikely, unless it was made in that "other Chinese sister factory".
Will explore it. I didn't think to do so for two reasons. One, my initial feeling was that I was very close to the tips anyway, and two, the 21/22 (or 20/21) Head FIS SL I was hoping they'd replace is mounted way far ahead of my old Heads and I've not got on with it at all. Those 21/22 Heads have hardly any ski to be seen when you look down, even when mounted as rearward as the plate will allow. They feel great going into the turn, and if you don't pressure them, but as soon as I do, they wash out. My old Heads, and the SLs I've used most, are the black ones from 2016 that no one else liked - so it could certainly be that the concept of recent SL design and how I ski just don't match up and I need to let them come forward more in the second half of the turn.As James said, move the binding forward.
Currently, it's in a different country.Where is the center of the boot in relation to the center of the flat length of the ski?
Right, I'm using them wrong then, thanks. The old Heads wanted/didn't mind that, and that's what I've become used to. The new Heads, I need to back off the tip quickly and ski almost side to side, less diagonally. The Rossis might be somewhere in between - i.e. I'm not losing the tail massively, but enough to screw the grip.If you expect to load the front of the ski and drive it through the turn this may not be your cup of tea.
Yep, that's the thing. I have about one hole to play with before I run out of plate.1. Most men's FIS SL skis are designed around a 25.5-26.5 shell. If your shell is significantly longer or shorter you may need to move the mounting point to get the ski balanced. In theory you shouldn't have to, but in practice you sometimes need to.
Thinking about it, there's always the risk that when watching something new, you graft it onto what you know rather than seeing it for what it is. Watching this season's WC SL, I THINK I've been seeing higher hips in the stance, more inclination, and despite the higher hips, the skis being allowed to shoot forward more towardsbthe end of the turn, with the hips behind the feet. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Or, even better, please describe this emergent technique as if I'd never seen a ski race, because I'm probably missing something.The new ski reflects the emerging SL technique
Since your equipment is scattered around the world maybe we should wait until next season. A suggestion: move the toe forward to the last hole and try again.Currently, it's in a different country.
What are you thinking?
I'm far from done with the season, I just meant to say I can't measure up the ski just now. But if I'm moving them forward, then they'll be in a similar position to my Heads, and then it's definitely a question of learning how to ski any newer SL rather than the Rossis per se.Since your equipment is scattered around the world maybe we should wait until next season. A suggestion: move the toe forward to the last hole and try again.
Interesting.The new ski reflects the emerging SL technique, so the ski characteristics reflect that. If you expect to load the front of the ski and drive it through the turn this may not be your cup of tea. Or if you do ski this way the ski just sort of sits there.