All Things Head

[Uncle-A]

These are not retro but they are Head skis.

 

[Luke222]

Hey guys need some advice on my new to me head 360’s! I’ve had the binding re-mounted at my local ski shop to fit my old boots and they’ve just moved the heel piece back. I’ve got no markings on the skis and I don’t know how I’d find original mounting info on skis this old! They are 210cm and the boot front is 41.5” from the tip and the back of the boot to the tail is just over 28” Does this sound and look correct? The boot looks maybe a bit too far back on the ski? Or is this how they are when the skis start getting this long!?

 

[Uncle-A]

Hey guys need some advice on my new to me head 360’s! I’ve had the binding re-mounted at my local ski shop to fit my old boots and they’ve just moved the heel piece back. I’ve got no markings on the skis and I don’t know how I’d find original mounting info on skis this old! They are 210cm and the boot front is 41.5” from the tip and the back of the boot to the tail is just over 28” Does this sound and look correct? The boot looks maybe a bit too far back on the ski? Or is this how they are when the skis start getting this long!?

Besides the surprise that that you found a shop to touch the bindings back when they were new they would mount bindings a couple ways.

1. The toe of the boot would be placed at one half of cord length of the ski. Take a string and measure from tip to tail, fold it in half and place that length from the tail to the point of the boot toe.
2. Stand the skis base to base but no pressure against each other, mark the spots that the edges touch each other at the tip and tail (these are the contact points). That will be the length or the running surface, place the ball of the foot/boot at the half way point of the running surface length.

If you compare the two methods the spot will probably be very close.

3. Depending on the vintage of the ski on the side wall by the serial number and length markings there may be a little triangle with the point facing up to the top surface of the ski. That might be a toe point mark for the boot.

 

[Doug Briggs]

What @Uncle-A said. Chord length and contact point methods should result in very similar.

Also defining the ball of the foot could prove to be contentious. ;-)

 

[Luke222]

Besides the surprise that that you found a shop to touch the bindings back when they were new they would mount bindings a couple ways.

1. The toe of the boot would be placed at one half of cord length of the ski. Take a string and measure from tip to tail, fold it in half and place that length from the tail to the point of the boot toe.
2. Stand the skis base to base but no pressure against each other, mark the spots that the edges touch each other at the tip and tail (these are the contact points). That will be the length or the running surface, place the ball of the foot/boot at the half way point of the running surface length.

If you compare the two methods the spot will probably be very close.

3. Depending on the vintage of the ski on the side wall by the serial number and length markings there may be a little triangle with the point facing up to the top surface of the ski. That might be a toe point mark for the boot.

Oh great thanks! I did the 1st one and it worked out exact half at the front of the boot. So they had been mounted correct originally. The guy at my local ski shop has known me forever so does these weird jobs for me I ski vintage skis all the time!

 

[Luke222]

Took the skis out today, they work great. Still working on my technique a bit. I’ve got a slalom race on them in March!

 

[Doug Briggs]

Took the skis out today, they work great. Still working on my technique a bit. I’ve got a slalom race on them in March!

A classic ski race? Nice! I was in one back in the spring of 2010. It was a ball.

 

[Uncle-A]

Took the skis out today, they work great. Still working on my technique a bit. I’ve got a slalom race on them in March!

The Head 360 might be a little soft for a SL race, the model 360 was to convey an all around ski. When a manufacturer tries to build something that is "all around" sometimes they give up one feature to get another. I personally like a softer ski but not everyone does. One night I had a conversation in a bar with a guy that likes the stiffer skis and I told him the 360 would ski circles around most other skis. He told me if I believed that I really wasn't a skier. At the time he was skiing on a Rossi Strato, I knew about the Strato but had not skied it yet so I didn't argue with him. A few years later I did get to ski on the Strato it was a good ski but a little stiff for my taste.

 

[Luke222]

The Head 360 might be a little soft for a SL race, the model 360 was to convey an all around ski. When a manufacturer tries to build something that is "all around" sometimes they give up one feature to get another. I personally like a softer ski but not everyone does. One night I had a conversation in a bar with a guy that likes the stiffer skis and I told him the 360 would ski circles around most other skis. He told me if I believed that I really wasn't a skier. At the time he was skiing on a Rossi Strato, I knew about the Strato but had not skied it yet so I didn't argue with him. A few years later I did get to ski on the Strato it was a good ski but a little stiff for my taste.

Ok interesting, I’d like to try a strato but I’ve not found a pair yet. What model were the head race ski of this era? The master? Also what year would my 360’s be? I’m guessing late 60’s.

 

[Uncle-A]

Ok interesting, I’d like to try a strato but I’ve not found a pair yet. What model were the head race ski of this era? The master? Also what year would my 360’s be? I’m guessing late 60’s.

Yes, the 360 was mid to late 60's and Head actually made a SL & GS ski.

 

[Philpug]

Head Yahoo Promo Movie​

 

[Noodler]

Head Yahoo Promo Movie​

Love it. I miss skiing like that... throwing something off every bump or kicker you could find (or build). I learned to ski on Yahoos (I think they were 160cm and I was 8). So it's fun to see them again.

 

[Tony Warren]

Head/Gertsch brochure

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The central pivot was placed right over the process of the tibia, it was meant to absorb side shocks and release when torque loading was applied, thus saving your knee and tib. Great idea. However when the ski was flexed in a hard turn, the central pivot would be disconnected from the plate and the binding would release in any one of its many degrees of freedom. A great turn would be turned into a bad fall.

 

[Bill Talbot]

Here's some HEAD 720 skis in a 203cm length. I don't see these too often. Tail top sheet says OLYMPIC/METAL, with early LOOK Nevada/Grand Prix bindings.

 

[Don in Morrison]

Here's some HEAD 720 skis in a 203cm length. I don't see these too often. Tail top sheet says OLYMPIC/METAL, with early LOOK Nevada/Grand Prix bindings.

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I still have my old 720's. They are 208 with Salomon 502 bindings.

 

[Uncle-A]

Here's some HEAD 720 skis in a 203cm length. I don't see these too often. Tail top sheet says OLYMPIC/METAL, with early LOOK Nevada/Grand Prix bindings.

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They look in good shape maybe even ski able? The Head 720 was a very fine ski for advanced skiers especially Nastar racing.

 

[Bad Bob]

They 720 had have been one of the last of the advanced Heads with the black topsheet. Never skied that one.

 

[Don in Morrison]

After the 720, Head began making their first fiberglass skis. The rivet in the tip of the metal skis was so iconic that all of their early fiberglass skis had a painted rivet on the tip. Their logo has always included the rivet as well.

 

[Bill Talbot]

I'm thinking 1967-68? for these?
Can anyone nail down the date they became available?

 

[Uncle-A]

I'm thinking 1967-68? for these?
Can anyone nail down the date they became available?

The Head number series 320, 360, 720 was in 1968, just not sure if it was 67 - 68 or 68 - 69. The memory isn't what it used to be.