All Things Marker

[RickyG]

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Today I found , in a small second hand shop , a pair of Marker M33S/M3S still in their original plastic bags and boxes .
Paid $15 for those ( cdn ) .

Now ... what to do ?
Put them on old K2 El Camino , ratchet the tension to 3 ( the max ) and try some powder skiing with the gig ?
Or I leave them intact , in the unopened plastic bags , for future archeologists who will dig where my house is ?

Let me know quickly ... my drill hand is shaking !!!!!!

Hi are you in the mood to sell them? I'm the one doing the 3D solid model/videos of old ski bindings and I'm trying to do the M3S/TR Rotomat right now and I can't find much data much less a real toe to work from....hummmm....you can see my work at HRG3Design on YouTube...https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCv8DcrNXE1DDT9fkbtz3VEg?view_as=subscriber
you can also reach me at [email protected]

 

[Posaune]

On my cabin wall. NFS.

 

[RickyG]

I was talking with Phil the other day about my first backcountry setup. Here it is. From the lack of images of the M3-S I'm guessing it was short lived. I don't know whether the touring version of the Rotamat heel was sold with a specific toe piece or not. This set came to me from my sister as is.

I toured on these on Mt. Washington in the 80s. The ski was great for the day, the binding left a lot to be desired. It probably was one reason I got into telemark shortly thereafter.

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in ski mode

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in tour mode. The range of movement is pretty limited by today's standards. Also, there is no heel lift for steeps.

Doug I have a request...could you please unscrew a toe then take a picture of the bottom of the toe unit and the top of the ski. I can't remember how the toe is mounted there are the two screws closest to the boot. The I keep thinking there is a clip towards the front that is like the M4 clip. Since I made the model off of the patent drawings I found I don't have the real data on the mounting. Thank you!

 

[Bad Bob]

On my cabin wall. NFS.

Is that and old pair of Deep Powders?

 

[Doug Briggs]

Doug I have a request...could you please unscrew a toe then take a picture of the bottom of the toe unit and the top of the ski. I can't remember how the toe is mounted there are the two screws closest to the boot. The I keep thinking there is a clip towards the front that is like the M4 clip. Since I made the model off of the patent drawings I found I don't have the real data on the mounting. Thank you!

Just two screws. No clip like the M4.

 

[RickyG]

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Just two screws. No clip like the M4.

Very cool, your a champ! Thank you I'm not officially un-stuck. Thank you!

 

[Posaune]

Is that and old pair of Deep Powders?

No. Head Standards.

 

[Bill Talbot]

I've got two versions of the Marker FDR. Let's call them early and later...
They put the Rotamat FD heel piece on the MRR turntable/brake assembly.

Here's later...

And now earlier

 

[oldschoolskier]

I've got two versions of the Marker FDR. Let's call them early and later...
They put the Rotamat FD heel piece on the MRR turntable/brake assembly.

Here's later...
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And now earlier

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After I got my M48R’s (in white and still have them) I nearly bought a set of in black with the Rotormat heels (still kicking myself for not buying them).

 

[Doug Briggs]

Since this is the Marker thread, I'm going to be the spelling police and say it is Rotamat. Always has been, always will be.

 

[Uncle-A]

Just got these on a pair of K2'S

 

[sortaold]

I have these M36 on my Olin MK VI. I bought some cheap Atomic Z12 to mount and have a fun 2nd pair of skis for the hell of it. I liked these skis in the 80's a lot. In removing the toes, does the top plastic come off to reveal the mounting screws?

I skied this rig last year a few times. They skied slow so I think they need a wax job.

 

[Doug Briggs]

I have these M36 on my Olin MK VI. I bought some cheap Atomic Z12 to mount and have a fun 2nd pair of skis for the hell of it. I liked these skis in the 80's a lot. In removing the toes, does the top plastic come off to reveal the mounting screws?

I skied this rig last year a few times. They skied slow so I think they need a wax job.

There are three screws IIRC. The two you see and one in a tab. When the visible screws are removed The Binding will slide off the tab and then you remove the screw when it is revealed.

 

[sortaold]

Thanks for the fast reply. btw, that little black tow plate pops off and there are 2 screws under it. I need a bigger screwdriver and those suckers are locked in place. no budge

 

[Doug Briggs]

You need a Pozi-drive #3 screwdriver. Heat the screw driver tip, hold it on the screw head to allow it to warm the screw and glue. Then give it a twist. A little tap on the driver while on the screws will sometimes loosen the glue's grip.

 

[Uncle-A]

Thanks for the fast reply. btw, that little black tow plate pops off and there are 2 screws under it. I need a bigger screwdriver and those suckers are locked in place. no budge

If heating the tip of your pozi #3 doesn't work, try the tip of a soldering iron to the screw head. That has worked for me in the past.

 

[Uncle-A]

When you get the two screws out you have to slide the toe towards the tail of the ski. The attached photo shows the third screw with a plate, the one on the left is a vintage Marker and the one on the right is for a vintage Tyrolia.

 

[sortaold]

Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[justplanesteve]

Are the M36 twin cams "safe" if cleaned out and greased?
Apparently the plastic parts are likely to break?

I need some slightly more modern bindings for the 1969/70 Dynamics bought in HS. I don't want to tighten the original M simplex toe/cheap japanese heel bindings down much but have reported on here last year about skiing out of them on bumps and steeps. I picked a set of dynastars out of one of the local $5 barrels for the Marker bindings since nothing else in the barrel was remotely more modern. If the M36 are not a good idea, it was a cheap thrill and easy to drop off somewhere in another barrel. I did score a set of Head Masters with very early Marker toe, Gese-Rasant heels. Maybe to try, certainly for the wall.

What would be a good modern binding? Does not have to be period correct; but some preference for being able to adjust position of heel for different boots, or even toe and heel to play with balance point.

Are all-metal Look Nevada's considered safe? I can make (machine) any metal parts.

There's also a set of Tyrolia 280D's here?

thanks!
smt

 

[Philpug]

Are the M36 twin cams "safe" if cleaned out and greased?
Apparently the plastic parts are likely to break?

I need some slightly more modern bindings for the 1969/70 Dynamics bought in HS. I don't want to tighten the original M simplex toe/cheap japanese heel bindings down much but have reported on here last year about skiing out of them on bumps and steeps. I picked a set of dynastars out of one of the local $5 barrels for the Marker bindings since nothing else in the barrel was remotely more modern. If the M36 are not a good idea, it was a cheap thrill and easy to drop off somewhere in another barrel. I did score a set of Head Masters with very early Marker toe, Gese-Rasant heels. Maybe to try, certainly for the wall.

What would be a good modern binding? Does not have to be period correct; but some preference for being able to adjust position of heel for different boots, or even toe and heel to play with balance point.

Are all-metal Look Nevada's considered safe? I can make (machine) any metal parts.

There's also a set of Tyrolia 280D's here?

thanks!
smt

The only bindings I would consider would be all metal race bindings, bindings that have minimal plastics at critical points especially housings.