All Things Marker

[Doug Briggs]

Nevadas with N17 heels are excellent old bindings. Easy to service, safe to run. I've skied a couple different pair on '60s and '70s version skis in this century.

I would test (and did the ones mentioned above) any old binding I'm going to use as I work at a shop. You probably would find a shop to test yours as long as you agree in advance they will not be approved as they are not indemnified. Despite that, the shop could insure that they will release properly and let you know whether they are 'ski worthy'.

 

[Uncle-A]

Are the M36 twin cams "safe" if cleaned out and greased?
Apparently the plastic parts are likely to break?

I need some slightly more modern bindings for the 1969/70 Dynamics bought in HS. I don't want to tighten the original M simplex toe/cheap japanese heel bindings down much but have reported on here last year about skiing out of them on bumps and steeps. I picked a set of dynastars out of one of the local $5 barrels for the Marker bindings since nothing else in the barrel was remotely more modern. If the M36 are not a good idea, it was a cheap thrill and easy to drop off somewhere in another barrel. I did score a set of Head Masters with very early Marker toe, Gese-Rasant heels. Maybe to try, certainly for the wall.

What would be a good modern binding? Does not have to be period correct; but some preference for being able to adjust position of heel for different boots, or even toe and heel to play with balance point.

Are all-metal Look Nevada's considered safe? I can make (machine) any metal parts.

There's also a set of Tyrolia 280D's here?

thanks!
smt

I would ski the Look binding or the Tyrolia 280D. Not sure if I would ski the marker. BTW the 280D would be for a lighter weight person and I think that the plastic parts are cosmetic and not part of the metal working of the binding underneath the plastic. I don't remember what the top setting DIN number is on the 280D maybe a 10 or 12. Still not for a heavier guy that is a hard charger.

 

[Doug Briggs]

Oh. I skimmed over what skis you were putting the bindings on.

All of these skis have been skied in this century, as well.

I had to include them as this is the Marker thread.

 

[Uncle-A]

Oh. I skimmed over what skis you were putting the bindings on. View attachment 149753

All of these skis have been skied in this century, as well.
View attachment 149754 View attachment 149755
I had to include them as this is the Marker thread.

I will ski the Looks you can trust the others if you want.

 

[justplanesteve]

All of these skis have been skied in this century, as well.

Nice!
I remember seeing your Dynamic post last year, when i got back into skiing after a 12? 15? year lapse.
As posted last year, i bought new Rossignol boots when the old Dolomites almost exploded, just pulling them open to put on.
I have had 4 pairs of boots over 50 years, kind of kept them sort of upgraded but only ever skied on the VR's with Marker simplex toes.

Never was a highly advanced skier - bought the Dynamics (new) in HS because they were reputed to be ice skates (necessary in MD/Southern PA at the time) and they were fairly inexpensive close-out spring of '70. Last year it took a while to get my legs back under me but the skis & bindings were ok on groomers. Did some big face plants, skied off trails a couple times, trying to ride the edge like i remembered. But the edges are not hard crust ridges anymore, so dug in, tripped, and launched through the trees....

Kid at the second hand sports store advised me on some modern Atomic Vantages, probably ex-demos.
Going back & forth between them and the VR's made me a better skier than i had been in the past. That, and the fact that all kinds of info and visuals are now accessible on You tube. But i also found i rather like the old skis at times, though the difference in technique between the 2 is enough to make me feel like an absolute beginner every time i swap.

Anyway, at 68 i'm not exactly a hard charger, but was trying to ski more challenging terrain than simple steep groomers (moguls, if my legs will learn to move again) and could not stay in the old simplex bindings when things got bumpy. Though i am loathe to crank down much on the settings. Both the 280D's and the Marker twincams were bought on skis out of local $5 barrels for the bindings, (struck out, obviously) & realized i ought to start asking questions first. Of course the stupid pass was on a pair of all metal Look Nevadas last year, when i had swore off buying more barrel skis.... AFA weight, usually 160 +/- 4 lbs. Down to 157 right now, but tend to pork up during the winter and might be 160 - 163 by springtime. 6'-0"

You guys have given a lot to work with, and "go all metal" does make sense to me especially as a sometime machinist.

Thanks!
smt

 

[Doug Briggs]

I will ski the Looks you can trust the others if you want.

I do trust them.

 

[Uncle-A]

I do trust them.

View attachment 149796

I am sure you maintain and check your equipment better than most, so you probably have less to worry about than the average skier.

 

[Philpug]

Look's hashtag: #Itrustlook

 

[justplanesteve]

The only bindings I would consider would be all metal race bindings

Seeing some MR/MRR's at accessible prices ......but look like they have as much plastic as the M36 TC's?
It's really difficult to tell about modern stuff without having in hand.

smt

 

[Philpug]

Seeing some MR/MRR's at accessible prices ......but look like they have as much plastic as the M36 TC's?
It's really difficult to tell about modern stuff without having in hand.

smt

I would not trust an M36 heel...or 46...Maybe a 46R and I would have no problem with an MR/MRR...other than bending down every time to clip in.

 

[Snowplow]

Just picked up a set of MRR Bindings. Does anyone have a copy of the original manual / instructions

 

[Doug Briggs]

I don't have a manual. The less than obvious adjustment is forward pressure. You determine the DIN and then the highlighted indicators should then be made to match the DIN by screwing in/out the screws on the top of the binding. This adjustment is not unlike the way you adjust forward pressure on modern Look Pivot heels.

I never set up a pair of these when they were new. I believe my instructions above are accurate, but I'm not 100% sure, just 99.5%. ;-) The hard part about mounting these is to know the proper spacing for the hidden tab that holds the forward part of the toe. You can't just make a template as you would for a binding where all the holes are out in the open prior to assembly.

 

[Snowplow]

I don't have a manual. The less than obvious adjustment is forward pressure. You determine the DIN and then the highlighted indicators should then be made to match the DIN by screwing in/out the screws on the top of the binding. This adjustment is not unlike the way you adjust forward pressure on modern Look Pivot heels.

I never set up a pair of these when they were new. I believe my instructions above are accurate, but I'm not 100% sure, just 99.5%. ;-) The hard part about mounting these is to know the proper spacing for the hidden tab that holds the forward part of the toe. You can't just make a template as you would for a binding where all the holes are out in the open prior to assembly.
View attachment 150356

Thanks. Very jealous of your location. Breckinridge is a beautiful town

 

[Snowplow]

I've got two versions of the Marker FDR. Let's call them early and later...
They put the Rotamat FD heel piece on the MRR turntable/brake assembly.

Here's later...
View attachment 100549
And now earlier

View attachment 100550


View attachment 100551

would you be able to post photos of the install paperwork? I have a set and any factory info would be helpful

 

[Snowplow]

would you be able to post photos of the install paperwork? I have a set and any factory info would be helpful

Bill can I see the bottom of the toe bindings please. I believe I’m missing a piece. I only have the 2 screws at the back of the plate. I’m sure there is a third anchor near the front of the binding

 

[Snowplow]

Bill can I see the bottom of the toe bindings please. I believe I’m missing a piece. I only have the 2 screws at the back of the plate. I’m sure there is a third anchor near the front of the binding

Never mind I figured it out

 

[Snowplow]

Oh. I skimmed over what skis you were putting the bindings on. View attachment 149753

All of these skis have been skied in this century, as well.
View attachment 149754 View attachment 149755
I had to include them as this is the Marker thread.

Oh. I skimmed over what skis you were putting the bindings on. View attachment 149753

All of these skis have been skied in this century, as well.
View attachment 149754 View attachment 149755
I had to include them as this is the Marker thread.

Doug I have the same MRR Bindings that you have on the skis on the right. May I ask how you got the adjusted. I know the can be tough to setup correctly. Looking for some advice on what DIN settings to use. I’m 6’4; 235 and pretty much cruise these days. Nothing too tough.

 

[Doug Briggs]

Doug I have the same MRR Bindings that you have on the skis on the right. May I ask how you got the adjusted. I know the can be tough to setup correctly. Looking for some advice on what DIN settings to use. I’m 6’4; 235 and pretty much cruise these days. Nothing too tough.

You should be able to use a modern DIN chart to calculate your settings. Be sure to compensate for age and to know your height, weight and boot sole length (BSL).

I set the DIN then forward pressure as described earlier. I work in a shop so I tested the bindings on a VT Calibrator. An important part of the calibration is to test the return to center of the toe with the dead hammer. That involves whacking the boot laterally at the toe to force it to deflect then return to center on its own.

This binding and most Rotamat style heels are among the most challenging to set up properly. That is why calibration is so important. Calibration helps to insure that your entire system performs properly and that the release torque values are correct. Read up on initial setting and actual settings to better understand the nuances of DIN settings. They aren't black and white.

 

[Bill Talbot]

Just picked up a set of MRR Bindings. Does anyone have a copy of the original manual / instructions View attachment 150352

Do as many 'practice' mounts as needed to get everything just right. I use 1 x 3 pine boards.
Once the forward pressure and all else is good, note where the midsole boot mark is. Then transfer the hole pattern to the skis using the mid sole mark for position.

 

[Rudi Riet]

These M40 "Sarajevo 1984 edition" bindings are on a pair of skis that live as decor in the AirBnB I'm at in SLC.

They're on a pair of Rossignol Equipe SM slalom skis, so I'm guessing circa 1983.