Go from Chamonix to Martigny, Sui over the mountain on Rte de la Forclaz. It’s a nice mountain road. On the Martigny side they grow grapes on impossibly steep slopes. We did the drive in winter but it was dry and sunny. You may see Chamois along the way.
People over there know more, but there’s some sort of Swiss highway tax sticker you’re supposed to purchase for roughly 40Chf. Not sure the consequences of not purchasing, other than the Swiss love to fine you. You purchase at the border, but if taking small roads like La Forclaz it’s easy to not though there's still a crossing.
Nothing quaint about Chamonix really. But the mountains are unreal. Stunning. It is busier in summer I hear, August is prob insane. The tram up the Grands Montets in Argentiere, if open now after 3-4? years, would be worth it too. Besides the Aiguille du Midi, which is like taking an airplane up from town. (9,200ft up)
Also the train from town to the receding glacier. Montenvers. (There is a hotel up there).
There’s also a train in the mountains at Les Houches in the Chamonix valley
Train stop in the mountains at Les Houches. ( You can ski there)
Looks like you’re set, but if you want quaint in the mountains near Verbier there’s Sarreyer. An old mountain town we skied to with a guide and took a van back to Le Chable. Lots of old wooden structures built on piled rocks to keep the rats out. Plenty of homes to rent.
Sarreyer is a village in Val de Bagnes, Entremont District, Valais and has an elevation of 1,239 metres. Sarreyer is situated nearby to Les Creux.
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