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Anyone use or have a Toko World Cup Edge Tuner?

murphysf

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Hi

Does anyone have or have used a Swix Evo Edge Pro Tuner (the Toko Edge Tuner World Cup is the same unit)?

I am thinking of getting one and was curious to hear the pros and cons. Lets leave cost out of the discussion as I want to focus on other attributes.

I heard that they do a good job and can get the edge sharp without taking alot of edge material off, which is what a file seems to do.
 

Atomicman

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I bought the Razor Tune. Much prefer the way it engages the ski. Although I have not tried the Swix machine, it looks like it could be less stable as you move the machine down the ski., kind of top heavy. With the ski edge up, base away from you. The Razor tune lays flat on the base of the skis and the interface is solid as a rock. You use it with the ski base up. Also I prefer the fixed angle plates. Although not as convenient, I am not sure how accurate that adjusting mechanism on the Swix edger is over time. Although side edge angle is not as crucial to be exact as base angle.

I've had my Razor Tune for 2 seasons now and it has been great. The ceramic tune finish is excellent.

The main issue that put me over the edge (no pun intended! ) was the way Razor Tune lays solidly flat all the way across the ski. Power edgers are far more efficient then doing it by hand. A couple of passes and you're done.

www.razor-tune.com
 

BC.

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I bought the Razor Tune. Much prefer the way it engages the ski. Although I have not tried the Swix machine, it looks like it could be less stable as you move the machine down the ski., kind of top heavy. With the ski edge up, base away from you. The Razor tune lays flat on the base of the skis and the interface is solid as a rock. You use it with the ski base up. Also I prefer the fixed angle plates. Although not as convenient, I am not sure how accurate that adjusting mechanism on the Swix edger is over time. Although side edge angle is not as crucial to be exact as base angle.

I've had my Razor Tune for 2 seasons now and it has been great. The ceramic tune finish is excellent.

The main issue that put me over the edge (no pun intended! ) was the way Razor Tune lays solidly flat all the way across the ski. Power edgers are far more efficient then doing it by hand. A couple of passes and you're done.

www.razor-tune.com

Can the RT/or any of these type of “power” edgers do the base edge as well?....assuming no/cuz it came with 2*/3* angles...and it didn’t mention it.
 

Atomicman

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Can the RT/or any of these type of “power” edgers do the base edge as well?....assuming no/cuz it came with 2*/3* angles...and it didn’t mention it.
No sir! I traded them a the 2 degree for a 4 degree for my FIS SL skis
 
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BC.

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As noted before in another thread...one of these/and a SVST pro bevel meter are on my “want to buy” list.
 

pliny the elder

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Can the RT/or any of these type of “power” edgers do the base edge as well?....assuming no/cuz it came with 2*/3* angles...and it didn’t mention it.

Snowglide offers a version that does both although I don't know anyone who uses them. The added expense and complexity don't warrant the frequency of usage, at least in my experience with the regular Snowglide.

pliny the elder
 

BC.

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Snowglide offers a version that does both although I don't know anyone who uses them. The added expense and complexity don't warrant the frequency of usage, at least in my experience with the regular Snowglide.

pliny the elder

True....not much use for base option...really only need to do the side....since that’s the one we are constantly tuning...
 

KingGrump

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The base bevel only get reset on a base grind. For hard snow, side edge every 3 to 5 days. I don't race so a base grind is like every 8 to 10 side edge sharpening.

The battery option on the razor tune is well worth $120. Really changes the handling ergonomic of the tool.
 

BC.

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The base bevel only get reset on a base grind. For hard snow, side edge every 3 to 5 days. I don't race so a base grind is like every 8 to 10 side edge sharpening.

The battery option on the razor tune is well worth $120. Really changes the handling ergonomic of the tool.

I know it’s a personal preference for each persons unique situation.........but which one do u and @Atomicman have/recommend?

-The basic (1wheel)
-The 2 wheel kit
-The complete Race kit (3wheel)

Might take the leap...definitely would be the cordless...especially for reasons that you say.
 

KingGrump

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I bought the 3 wheel corded kit couple seasons back. Before start of last season, I bought the battery, couple extra medium wheels and couple extra 3° wedge plates. I find that I use the medium wheel and 3° plate the most. Neither original medium wheel nor the original 3° wedge plate have shown much wear. I just like to have back up.

To put things in perspective in term of tuning quantity. I do full tunes on about 30 pairs of skis at the start of the season. During most of the season, I maintain only our (wife and I) skis we take on the road. About 13 pairs. We ski about 15 days early season in New England and 100+ days on the road out west.

Their product packages have changed over the summer. Much better now. If I have to do it over, I would pick up the $720 3-wheel battery kit, an extra battery, couple extra medium wheel and wedge plates.
A fully charged battery will do 8 to 10 pair skis if they are not too dull. The extra battery is just me. I always like spare batteries when I am working with cordless tools.
 

Dave Marshak

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Everything @Atomicman said about Razor Tune is right and the battery option for it simplifies power cord management. Still, I prefer the EVO.

Razor Tune needs to be held base up in a vise, but it's way easier to hold the EVO edge up. I live in an apartment, and I set up a simple semi-permanent support with a couple of slots on my back porch to hold the ski. No clamping or setting up a vise, and working outdoors means no ventilation or clean up problems. I'm not sure I get a better edge than I did when I used simple stones, but it's much faster. I'm sure it's faster than a RT for me, but it does require a little more skill. Also, any rock damage will stop the EVO dead in its tracks, so you need to take that down first. I'm not sure how the RT compares that way.

Also, one of my race coach friends reports that there are a lot more serious bloody injuries since they started using grinders. I cut my finger deeply enough that they Xrayed at the emergency room. I'm wearing gloves a lot more now, especially when I scrape the bottom.

dm
 

S.H.

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I know it’s a personal preference for each persons unique situation.........but which one do u and @Atomicman have/recommend?

-The basic (1wheel)
-The 2 wheel kit
-The complete Race kit (3wheel)

Might take the leap...definitely would be the cordless...especially for reasons that you say.
I have the cordless complete race kit. I have no reservations. The coarse wheel isn't used very often, but I'm glad I have it when I need it.

I rotate through about 4 pairs of race skis that get tuned every 1-2 days on snow (I'm back to being a Masters athlete this year), as well as 3 other pairs for all-mountain skiing that get tuned every 5 or so days on snow (plus a couple pairs of "coaching skis" that get tuned pretty rarely, but when they do, it's a big effort).

With the machine, I have much more time (and get a better result) than doing it by hand.
 

Atomicman

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I know it’s a personal preference for each persons unique situation.........but which one do u and @Atomicman have/recommend?

-The basic (1wheel)
-The 2 wheel kit
-The complete Race kit (3wheel)

Might take the leap...definitely would be the cordless...especially for reasons that you say.
I also bought the Complete Race Tune Kit. Traded the 2 degree angle plate for a 4 degree. So I have a 3 & a 4. I use the 3 degree and Medium wheel the most. I may break down and buy a battery pack!
 
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Atomicman

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Everything @Atomicman said about Razor Tune is right and the battery option for it simplifies power cord management. Still, I prefer the EVO.

Razor Tune needs to be held base up in a vise, but it's way easier to hold the EVO edge up. I live in an apartment, and I set up a simple semi-permanent support with a couple of slots on my back porch to hold the ski. No clamping or setting up a vise, and working outdoors means no ventilation or clean up problems. I'm not sure I get a better edge than I did when I used simple stones, but it's much faster. I'm sure it's faster than a RT for me, but it does require a little more skill. Also, any rock damage will stop the EVO dead in its tracks, so you need to take that down first. I'm not sure how the RT compares that way.

Also, one of my race coach friends reports that there are a lot more serious bloody injuries since they started using grinders. I cut my finger deeply enough that they Xrayed at the emergency room. I'm wearing gloves a lot more now, especially when I scrape the bottom.

dm
Thanks Dave! My vises are permanently setup, so no issue there. Yes, you must use the EVO edge up and this is exactly my issue with it. It's is almost impossible to screw things up with the Razor Tune, the way it fully sits across the ski. Also appears to me to be safer. You just don't have the full machine teetering on the narrow edge.
 

flbufl

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I have the battery pack. It works great!

I also bought the Complete Race Tune Kit. Traded the 2 degree angle plate for a 4 degree. So I have a 3 & a 4. I use the 3 degree and Medium wheel the most. I may break down and buy a battery pack!
 
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Dave Marshak

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My vises are permanently setup, so no issue there.
If I had a well ventilated permanent vise set up, I would consider a Razor Tune, but I hate clamping and I still think Inwould be faster with my EVO. YMMV

dm
 
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