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Colorado Aspen 2021 - Fun, some sun, and what's to come...

dbostedo

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Aspen 030621 124 ACR Conv Pano.jpg
Highland Bowl, Pyramid Peak, and the Maroon Bells, from the lodge at the top of Aspen Highlands

While there was no official national Gathering this year, it was supposed to be at Aspen. And of all the places I've been skiing, Aspen has been my favorite. So while there were COVID restrictions for visitors, including testing requirements, I was pretty determined to still go. So I went - and met up with a few others who also still wanted to go. Throughout the week I would ski with @AeroSKI5150, his wife Missy, @NeillST, @Scotty I., @MattSmith, and his girlfriend Whitney.

There was a lot of sun, and a bit of snow, but we found a lot to ski on three of the mountains (I didn't make it over to Buttermilk this go-round). Since the only other time I've been to Aspen was in 2016 for my first Gathering, I was curious if I'd enjoy it as much as I did that time. I'm also a somewhat better skier now, so I think that made a difference, and I still think Aspen is my favorite place to ski. :)

For the whole trip, I wound up skiing 4 days at Snowmass, and 1 each a Aspen Highlands, and Aspen Mountain. I skied about 125,000 vertical feet, about 117 linear miles, some fresh snow, some leftovers, some ice, some bumps, and a bunch more trees than I have before.

Flying in

Aspen is a terrible place to fly into. The airport is nice enough, and there are plenty of flights, but there tends to be a lot of issues too - late arrival rates and cancellation rates on flights are really high compared to many other places. Still, it beats driving, so I was flying in. As it turns out, Aspen was due to get 7" of snow the day of my arrival, so I was prepared for delays. I was connecting to Aspen through Dallas, and sure enough, my flight from Dallas was delayed for a couple of hours. But once it went, I did eventually make it into Aspen.

But my luggage didn't. *sigh* So I got in line with quite a few others to report my lost bags... and waited... and waited... and waited. By this time I was second in line, when someone starts walking in from the parking area with bags, including my skis! And shortly thereafter my bootbag and suitcase! Turns out, they went out on an earlier flight than mine, that got diverted to Grand Junction by the weather. Then they were bussed from Grand Junction to Aspen. But I was now good to go.

I was staying at Snowmass, so I got settled in with about 8" having fallen during the day, and looked forward to the next day...

Sign in Aspen airport that I enjoyed
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Skiing Day 1 - Sunday at Snowmass

I was skiing solo today, as others weren't coming in until the afternoon. I spent all day on the west side of Snowmass.... Village Express, Sam's Knob, Campground, Big Burn, and Sheer Bliss. The snow that had fallen the day before was all pretty skied out, but everything was nice piles and very soft. It was a really nice day and it was fun to get reacquainted with the mountain.

Walking out to the slopes from my condo, I was greeted with this view
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Fresh cord in the morning at the top of Village Express
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The views everywhere are wonderful on a bluebird day!
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The top of the Big Burn area
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The view out of bounds from Sneaky's in the Big Burn
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I spent a lot of time at Snowmass in Powerline Glade... lots of easy trees that skied well
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Lots of nice cord and low clouds... Snowmass wasn't very busy, even with the new snow, and everything held up and skied very well
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View of the top of Sam's Knob from Big Burn
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Hey! I know why they call it Powerline Glade!! The powerline line was some easy fun bumps among the trees
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Moving over to Sheer Bliss area was a lot of soft crud... the areas up high were wonderful... lower was more scraped off and scratchy. Sheer Bliss lift covers over 2000 feet of vert, so it can be somewhat different top to bottom.
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After Sheer Bliss I decided to ski Campground, which I'd never skied before. Requisite ski sticker shot on the slow lift back out of the area.
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The view up the valley from Campground area looking at Mount Daly
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This little section of bumps was soft, but a bit heavy and kicked my butt a bit. (It's a lot steeper than it looks, at about 35 degrees for the first few turns.)
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I saw a "watch for dog sleds" sign while skiing, but didn't really expect to see them!
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Another view of the steep bit, from the lift - I definitely would not have skied this last time I was at Aspen
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Skiing Day 2 - Monday at Snowmass

Day 2 I met up with a few others, and hit some more areas of Snowmass. It was another bluebird day, and the snow had settled in a bit so off-piste was not as nice. But - and I hate to sound like a broken record - it was still a great day.

Morning steep groomer on Slot under the Sam's Knob lift
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Part of the lower Cirque wall from the Alpine Springs lift
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I met up with @Scotty I. - and racked up a lot of vertical trying to keep up with him. We skied a lot of fast groomers.
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Pano from the High Alpine area
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Later in the morning, we met up with @NeillST, @AeroSKI5150 (Mike), and Missy... though we got separated from Mike and MIssy, wound up taking different lifts, and had to track each other down
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Later we headed over to Elk Camp. The views off the back of the Maroon Bells are terrific.
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@NeillST, @AeroSKI5150 (Mike), and Missy at the top of Elk Camp
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Pano of the view from the top of the Elk Camp lift
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After some laps in Elk Camp, we headed back to the Snowmass Mall for après ... Missy, Mike, Katie, and Neill here at the New Belgium Ranger Station
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Skiing Day 3 - Tuesday at Aspen Highlands

We decided to head to Aspen Highlands on Tuesday. I caught the bus at the stop right after the mall, and was wondering if it would be full (the busses are operating at 50% capacity). But I forgot how empty Aspen can be during the week...

I was the only one on the bus on the way to Highlands - a few more folks would get on at the outer parking areas, but not many
Aspen 030621 111 ACR Conv.jpg

It was another glorious day, and had stayed cold so far, so things were still pretty nice. I mostly stuck to the groomers, but did a few bumps. And Neill did some more exploring in Olympic Bowl, Deep Temerity, and Sherwood Forest.

Beautiful morning at Highlands
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Highlands cleared out the main lodge room and doesn't have any seating or cubbies or anything. Instead they put up more benches with covers. There are little firepits in each one too, though they only light them after 12:30.
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Missy and Mike in the Cloud 9 area
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Valley view from somewhere on Highlands
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Pyramid Peak and Maroon Peak from Aspen Highlands
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Later in the morning, we decided to ski Scarlett's above the Merry-Go-Round. @NeillST (shown here) skied it very well. I skied it better than 2016, but bailed halfway down.
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The view down Golden Horn/Thunder Bowl... this was fantastic groomer skiing with fun huge wide open turns. Unfortunately I skied it with my backpack unzipped and lost a gatorade, and my Ski-trax.
Aspen 030621 135 ACR Conv.jpg


Skiing Day 4 - Wednesday at Aspen Mountain

For my fourth day, we decided to head to Aspen Mountain. @MattSmith and Whitney were coming in, and it was the last ski day for Neill and Mike. It was yet another bluebird day, and was warmer... the snow was still pretty good but it was starting to be affected. We also had our first real lift lines - the gondola wait was nearly 10 minutes at times (though no, or very little, wait at any other lift). It must have been the warm weather getting people out.

Silver Queen gondola plaza (which I like a lot no matter what @James says :ogcool::P)
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The view of Aspen Highlands off the west side of Aspen Mountain
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Riding the FIS lift up to Ruthie's run. Several lifts are old and small/slow... especially Gentleman's Ridge lift, which is sssslllloooooowwwwwww.
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Aspen grove on Aspen Mountain
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Closer view of Highland Bowl and part of the Deep Temerity lift area at Aspen Highlands, from Aspen Mountain
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Matt in some hard bumps at Aspen Mountain
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Whitney in the bumps
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View of Bonnie's restaurant and the mid mountain area
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Mike and Neill enjoying the sun and groomers (somewhere on Ruthie's, I think)
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View down into town from the lower mountain
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Lunch at the top with Matt, Whitney, Neill, and Mike
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After lunch, we skied Gentleman's Ridge, which had softened nicely in the sun. They were nearly (OK, maybe not too nearly) slush bumps.
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View to the top of Ruthie's from above
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Neill looking at the view
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Mike and Neill mid mountain
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Skiing Day 5 - Thursday at Snowmass

Day 5 had a chance of snow, and 2-4 inches were predicted overnight... so the clouds had rolled in. We skied all over on this day... from Campground to Elk Camp... pretty much everywhere except Two Creeks and the Cirque poma.

Cloudier Mount Daly view
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View to the bottom of Sam's Knob lift
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Some minor lift lines today... a bit surprising
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Wide open runs are a Snowmass specialty... with the flat light, it was interesting... (I think it would have confused @James) (Also, if you go to Aspen, and you wear red pants and a white/grey jacket, you're going to be mistaken for an instructor a few times. Guess how I know that? :P )
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Low clouds over Big Burn
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Matt with the international symbol for "follow me"
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Even lower clouds over Big Burn... we spent a good amount of time in trees which helped with the flat light
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Powerline Glade again
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And again...
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Then we headed over to Elk Camp and things really started to roll in... no view from the top today
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Snow!! We were hopeful to get more than a couple of inches
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Matt and Whitney on the Elk Camp lift
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After Elk Camp it was back to New Belgium Ranger Station
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Skiing Day 6 - Friday at Snowmass

The last ski day, and Snowmass reported 3" which actually helped to freshen things up.

Moon view from Sam's Knob in the morning
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View of Big Burn and Sheer Bliss from Sam's Knob
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Powerline Glade... yet again. This time the fresh snow was very nice....
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After a few runs, we went to the Cirque lift to the top
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Terrific view from up there... and a fun groomer coming back down (I did not ski the Cirque)
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After that we went back to Elk Camp and skied some more trees off Bull Run, which we had found were very nice the day before, and were great today
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My almost final run of the day down into Two Creeks. Matt and Whitney did Long Shot, but I didn't feel up for it....
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Final run down the gondola line to the village
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Flying out

Flying out went only a little better than flying in... I wound up switching flights twice due to mechanical issues which were eventually going to make me miss my connection back to DC. (Changing flights is very easy these days, as I could do it almost instantly on my phone with no waiting in line.) Unfortunately, my luggage again didn't make it, and I didn't get it until more than 24 hours after I got home. But at least the view was nice as we took off....

Snowmass from the plane
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Lift Tickets
I was skiing on the full Ikon pass, and had made my reservations long ago. But I don't think there would have been any issues getting reservations on short notice.

Dining
We ate outside most of the time, though restaurants were operating at 50% capacity. We did eat inside twice, including at the restaurant off Alpine Springs lift at Snowmass. It used to be Gwen's, but was bought out by Aspen, and remodeled somewhat. It was actually very good. We also had a dinner at The Edge Restaurant in Snowmass that was very good, and pretty empty/spaced out.


Finally... it was a great trip, and I can't wait to go back next year... and hope to see lots of the rest of you there too!
 
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James

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Great report!
See those pictures make us happy.
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Aspen really is beautiful. I find it more so than the near desert mountain of Snowmass.

It used to be Gwen's, but was bought out by Aspen, and remodeled somewhat.
Will we be horribly upset? Are we going to have Tony ranting on the situation?
 

Tony S

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Nice going, db. Thanks for the pics and account.
 

Mike King

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Nice report and glad you enjoyed your visit. The skiing here is pretty awesome at the moment and I'm looking out at 6 inches this morning -- we are forecast to get an additional 33 over the next 10 days.

A couple of items for you -- the prominent peaks you see across Maroon Creek from the top of Elk Camp are the Maroon Bells (Maroon Peak and North Maroon Peak, both 14ers), not Pyramid Peak. The Gentlemen's Ridge Chair is known locally as the "Couch" due to the more than ample time you have to relax. Did you visit any of the shrines on Aspen Mountain or Snowmass?

Mike
 

mdf

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Great report, as always. I'm looking forward to skiing there next year.

Even with delays and cancelation risk, I think flying in is better than the long drive from the Denver airport (which is actually in Kansas). I have wondered about flying into Grand Junction, though...

(I did not ski the Cirque)
Next year!
 

Phelmut

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Another fantastic trip report with great pics and plenty of details. Such a variety of terrain there and rarely lines, especially when compared to what I'm used to. When i first went there for the gathering in 2016 my impression was that it was just a decent mountain with a very hoity toity atmosphere. I was really surprised and am so looking forward to next year.
 

mdf

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Another view of the steep bit, from the lift - I definitely would not have skied this last time I was at Aspen
Aspen 030621 073 ACR Conv.jpg
I remember that pitch! Bravo.
 
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dbostedo

dbostedo

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the prominent peaks you see across Maroon Creek from the top of Elk Camp are the Maroon Bells (Maroon Peak and North Maroon Peak, both 14ers), not Pyramid Peak
D'oh... I always seem to get those backwards... thx.

Did you visit any of the shrines on Aspen Mountain or Snowmass?
@MattSmith came across one, but I didn't see any of them.
 

TheArchitect

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As always an excellent report. Looking forward to next year.
 

Mike King

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Excellent Report @dbostedo and a pleasure to see and ski with you again! @Scotty I. & @MattSmith great taking some turns together also!

Have to agree the ASE travel was the only down side... Either plan an extra day on either side, or deal with the gamble of I-70/Denver I suppose.
Usually flying into ASE is usually not an issue. But when it is, it is a major inconvenience. But that is part of why Aspen is a special ski experience -- the absence of crowds, discouraged by the possibility that flying into Aspen will be inconvenient or having to deal with a significant drive from Denver with lots of potential traffic.

You can always fly into Eagle and have a shorter drive or van ride...

Mike
 
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dbostedo

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Usually flying into ASE is usually not an issue. But when it is, it is a major inconvenience. But that is part of why Aspen is a special ski experience -- the absence of crowds, discouraged by the possibility that flying into Aspen will be inconvenient or having to deal with a significant drive from Denver with lots of potential traffic.

You can always fly into Eagle and have a shorter drive or van ride...

Mike
For reference, here are some stats for local airports... Eagle and Grand Junction could be options... I picked the data for the last 5 non-COVID years, and included Denver for reference. These are for the whole time period, not just winter.

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Looking at just once recent winter:

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You can look at things and filter as appropriate here: https://www.transtats.bts.gov/OT_Delay/OT_DelayCause1.asp
 

TheArchitect

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My plan for next year is to ski Friday and check out very early Saturday morning for an early afternoon flight in Denver. I figure most of the I-70 traffic on a Saturday morning is heading west and not east to Denver. My wife is coming and hasn't been in the rockies much so we want to drive instead of flying directly into Aspen.
 

Mike King

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For reference, here are some stats for local airports... Eagle and Grand Junction could be options... I picked the data for the last 5 non-COVID years, and included Denver for reference. These are for the whole time period, not just winter.

View attachment 127482

View attachment 127483

View attachment 127484

View attachment 127486

Looking at just once recent winter:

View attachment 127485

View attachment 127488

View attachment 127489

View attachment 127487


You can look at things and filter as appropriate here: https://www.transtats.bts.gov/OT_Delay/OT_DelayCause1.asp
So one thing that skews those statistics is that the airspace into Aspen was closed for an extended period of time for the Lake Christine fire due to air support needs for fire control.
 

Mike King

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My plan for next year is to ski Friday and check out very early Saturday morning for an early afternoon flight in Denver. I figure most of the I-70 traffic on a Saturday morning is heading west and not east to Denver. My wife is coming and hasn't been in the rockies much so we want to drive instead of flying directly into Aspen.
You should be ok as long as you leave before 9:30. The ski traffic back to the Front Range starts around noon...
 

mdf

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For reference, here are some stats for local airports... Eagle and Grand Junction could be options... I picked the data for the last 5 non-COVID years, and included Denver for reference. These are for the whole time period, not just winter.

View attachment 127482

View attachment 127483

View attachment 127484

View attachment 127486

Looking at just once recent winter:

View attachment 127485

View attachment 127488

View attachment 127489

View attachment 127487


You can look at things and filter as appropriate here: https://www.transtats.bts.gov/OT_Delay/OT_DelayCause1.asp
When I looked at this back in 2016, my impression was that troubled flights from Denver would tend to be cancelled (guessing because there were others) while flights from elsewhere would be delayed, potentially for a long time.
 

SKI-3PO

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Last gathering I connected through Denver and circled above Aspen for a landing window for close to 2 hours (after the pilot told us we had 45 minutes worth of fuel to do so?) before he gave up and we went back to Denver.
 

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