Base Repair - Advice needed

[Davec1]

I found these gouges out of the base of a favourite pair of skis, where I can see the core. I would be keen to hear peoples thoughts on how to approach it.

Do I need to hit it with a bit of Metal Grip first and then ptex?

There also appears to be either an old repair (I cant remember) or what looks like a decent chunk taken out near the edge. Does this need a touch up?

We are back into a full lockdown here in Sydney, Australia, so the local shops are all closed and I have plenty of time on my hands. I am going to have a crack at repairing it myself.

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

I have watched a few base repair videos online to get some pointers.

Cheers,
Dave

 

[Rich_Ease_3051]

We are back into a full lockdown here in Sydney, Australia, so the local shops are all closed and I have plenty of time on my hands. I am going to have a crack at repairing it myself.


Cheers,
Dave

Offtopic you reckon we're coming off the lockdown in September?

I had 3 x 4 day weekends down the tubes. 2 in July and 1 this month. The July ones were kind enough to give me a refund. The August one gave me a credit.

I will foolishly book a mid-September date for the August credit and hope for a miracle. The accommodation said, if we extend the lockdown again to September, that I can still use the credit for the next 1 year.

 

[Qpud]

If you can see the base or the edge material, use a thin layer of metal grip, then ptex. You can always try it without the metagrip (if you don't have it available or are in a rush) and it may just work and hold for the rest of season. Or it may fall out/crack ... but you can watch for that and repair it again later.

If you're not that picky, smaller gouges can be skipped if they aren't deep or not in a bad spot. When they are along the edges, I like to fill it to make it stronger and avoid having an indentation that the next rock is going to seek out and more easily tear out that edge.

Metalgrip needs a warm (not too hot) soldering iron. This will also work with ptex (and IMHO is the best method for base welds).

Nice structure on those bases.....

 

[Davec1]

Offtopic you reckon we're coming off the lockdown in September?

I had 3 x 4 day weekends down the tubes. 2 in July and 1 this month. The July ones were kind enough to give me a refund. The August one gave me a credit.

I will foolishly book a mid-September date for the August credit and hope for a miracle. The accommodation said, if we extend the lockdown again to September, that I can still use the credit for the next 1 year.

We had the same issue. 1 x week in school holidays, another week on August and 3 long weeekends in between.

I rebooked for early Sept a few weeks ago, though its looking less likely. Not much we can do.

I have been waxing ski's over the past few weeks just to feel closer to getting out on the mountain - Its a little sad, but its all I've got! The kids think I have lost it!

 

[Davec1]

If you can see the base or the edge material, use a thin layer of metal grip, then ptex. You can always try it without the metagrip (if you don't have it available or are in a rush) and it may just work and hold for the rest of season. Or it may fall out/crack ... but you can watch for that and repair it again later.

If you're not that picky, smaller gouges can be skipped if they aren't deep or not in a bad spot. When they are along the edges, I like to fill it to make it stronger and avoid having an indentation that the next rock is going to seek out and more easily tear out that edge.

Metalgrip needs a warm (not too hot) soldering iron. This will also work with ptex (and IMHO is the best method for base welds).

Nice structure on those bases.....

Thanks @Eric Raymond.

I will have a go with the metal grip and follow up with ptex. I'd rather do it right the first time, and besides, I have nothing but time at the moment.

Do I need to use metal grip on the areas that arent through to the core? Will ptex adhere properly to a sintereed base without metal grip?

 

[Talisman]

Do I need to use metal grip on the areas that arent through to the core? Will ptex adhere properly to a sintereed base without metal grip?

You can weld ptex diretly to the sintered base that is not "core shot." As suggested by others if you can see the base or edge you will need to use metal grip first.

 

[Scrundy]

My experience with metal grip and ptex is it doesn’t hold up very long when it comes to core shots. I’ve had very good luck with https://www.tognar.com/loctite-11c-hysol-epoxy-black/ fix once lasts all season.

 

[razie]

I'd fill that with epoxy. Bright red or yellow epoxy generates the most questions... or use black if you don't want reminders every time you wax it...

 

[Wade]

My experience with metal grip and ptex is it doesn’t hold up very long when it comes to core shots. I’ve had very good luck with https://www.tognar.com/loctite-11c-hysol-epoxy-black/ fix once lasts all season.

it probably depends on how you’re finishing the repair on top of the metal grip.

I’ve fixed a ton of core shots in the middle of the ski and along edges using metal grip and then using a flat ended soldering iron to weld in ptex ribbon. I take my time, make sure the repair area is properly prepped and cleaned, and blend the repair well enough so it’s almost invisible.

I haven’t had one fail yet. I’ve have a few that are still holding up after 4 or 5 seasons.

 

[geepers]

Offtopic you reckon we're coming off the lockdown in September?

Buckleys.

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

Tried filling deeper core shot with ptex and also with epoxy. Not sure it lasts even one run. Whatever the repair it was always gone by coffee.

OTOH skied that pair of skis with a worse hole than shown and a cracked metal edge for another 60-70 days without much issue. Often need a good pair of rock hoppers in Australia.

 

[Scrundy]

Buckleys.



Tried filling deeper core shot with ptex and also with epoxy. Not sure it lasts even one run. Whatever the repair it was always gone by coffee.

Same experience here as well. I even had skis fixed at shop with some kind of epoxy, it held up for a little while but friction was wearing it down. Tried the epoxy I mentioned above and it held and doesn’t seem to wear at all. I’ve fixed other skis with metal grip that held, think some skis are just moody.

 

[Jacques]

I found these gouges out of the base of a favourite pair of skis, where I can see the core. I would be keen to hear peoples thoughts on how to approach it.

Do I need to hit it with a bit of Metal Grip first and then ptex?

There also appears to be either an old repair (I cant remember) or what looks like a decent chunk taken out near the edge. Does this need a touch up? View attachment 139058 View attachment 139059 View attachment 139060 View attachment 139061 View attachment 139062

We are back into a full lockdown here in Sydney, Australia, so the local shops are all closed and I have plenty of time on my hands. I am going to have a crack at repairing it myself.

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

I have watched a few base repair videos online to get some pointers.

Cheers,
Dave

You might check this long video. The heat used is important. Good luck.

 

[Davec1]

Same experience here as well. I even had skis fixed at shop with some kind of epoxy, it held up for a little while but friction was wearing it down. Tried the epoxy I mentioned above and it held and doesn’t seem to wear at all. I’ve fixed other skis with metal grip that held, think some skis are just moody.

Thanks for the tip.

I called the shop that I usually use and they said that I could use most epoxy's and then ptex on top. Good to hear your expereinces with some not lasting a season.

I cant get that specific Loctite product locally here in Australia, so will look for an alternative.

You might check this long video. The heat used is important. Good luck.

Thanks @Jacques. I had watched the video before posting this thread. Like all of your videos, it is very informative and helpful. Thanks for taking the time to share that info.

I only have a gas soldering iron that is adjustable, its a Dremel butane powered unit. Would this likely still be too hot if turned to a very low setting or should I look at getting something else?

What are your thoughts on metal grip v's other epoxy's as a "primer" before ptex? Any suggestions on alternatives that would hold longer?

 

[cantunamunch]

I only have a gas soldering iron that is adjustable, its a Dremel butane powered unit. Would this likely still be too hot if turned to a very low setting or should I look at getting something else?

Don't forget you need to get the surrounding plastic almost-but-not-quite-as-hot as the filler plastic, or nothing will bond for any length of time. The temperature of the tool is less important than the overall quantity of heat imparted to the work and the pattern it's done in.

 

[Joby Graham]

it probably depends on how you’re finishing the repair on top of the metal grip.

I’ve fixed a ton of core shots in the middle of the ski and along edges using metal grip and then using a flat ended soldering iron to weld in ptex ribbon. I take my time, make sure the repair area is properly prepped and cleaned, and blend the repair well enough so it’s almost invisible.

I haven’t had one fail yet. I’ve have a few that are still holding up after 4 or 5 seasons.

Hysol is tough stuff - we use it to bond aluminum sheet floor pans to the bottom of tube frame race car chassis and constructing monocoques.

 

[Doug Briggs]

The amount of core showing (to my tired eyes) doesn't mandate metal-grip, but I'd use it if it were available. You have the time. P-tex alone might be enough. I used to epoxy my skis as I was pretty rough on them. I get good results with a variable heat iron and being careful not to melt the metal-grip as I apply the P-tex.

An important thing in any base repair is to repair them right after they are damaged or at least before waxing them. Wax in the damaged area is often the great ruiner of repairs.

 

[dan ross]

The amount of core showing (to my tired eyes) doesn't mandate metal-grip, but I'd use it if it were available. You have the time. P-tex alone might be enough. I used to epoxy my skis as I was pretty rough on them. I get good results with a variable heat iron and being careful not to melt the metal-grip as I apply the P-tex.

An important thing in any base repair is to repair them right after they are damaged or at least before waxing them. Wax in the damaged area is often the great ruiner of repairs.

I have had luck as well using epoxy on an exposed edge , applying the P-Tex before the epoxy is fully cured to better facilitate the bond. I prefer West system g-flex 650 thickened as it actually sticks to polyethylene ..and everything else. Great for repairing kayaks as well.

 

[Eric@ict]

Hysol is tough stuff - we use it to bond aluminum sheet floor pans to the bottom of tube frame race car chassis and constructing monocoques.

We use Hysol products in structural repairs on airplanes. Good Stuff but got to watch the temps for in service conditions. Some flex, others are very hard and have no flex.