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KingGrump

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Thinking of trying my router and table. Using the fence should give it a nice straight edge. Just need to look at the bits to see which is the best.

1/2" Up spiral bit.

The up spiral will pull the scraper down toward the table. The cutters with a spiral cutting edge produces a smoother cut when compared to a straight cutting edge. Lot less chatter. More of a shearing action rather than a chipping action.
 

KingGrump

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I have spent a good chunk of my life on construction sites and work shops. I have seen my fair share of job related accidents. One of the most frequent cause of accidents is the relative size of the work vs the machine utilized. This often translates to the work piece being too small for the machine utilized. Small work pieces puts the hands and fingers too close to the cutters. For 10"/12" table saws and 6" jointers, the minimum size for the work piece is 12" in length. Anything smaller have to be secured in a jig. No exceptions.

A wax scraper for skis is usually 6" wide. The throat on a 6" jointer often exceed 2". Not a good match.
 

eok

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For scraper sharpening I alternate between two methods.

Most times, I use the drywall screen method - using a simple 12" long 2x2 wood scrap as the guide. 2x2 goes on top of the screen, scraper edge on the screen and the scraper side against the 2x2. Push/pull a few times (for both scraper edges) & the scraper is good enough for at least a couple skis.

Periodically, I feel like the drywall method isn't giving me the edge I need. Then I pull out my (very old) 14" jack plane. It's been dedicated for ski scrapers for a number of years now. I keep the blade quite sharp and adjusted for a very very fine cut. I just press the scraper edge firmly and squarely on the base (ahead of the blade) and keep that pressure as I pull firmly and fairly quickly. A few passes is all that's needed.

If you're doing it right, the scraper plastic makes a rewarding consistent ripping sound. If you attempt this but are afraid of being cut then wear leather gloves. The blade should be adjusted for a very very slight cut that removes a relatively minute amount of plastic on each pass. This means - if the blade is adjusted as suggested here - there should not be enough blade exposure to warrant an emergency room visit if you chose not to use gloves.

IMG_1516_B.JPG


IMG_1515_B.JPG
 

CalG

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I use the the 6 inch jointer when I have a bunch of scrapers to do. People with machine tool aversion, or are risk prone, should seek professional assistance when using such equipment.
A block plane (smaller version of eok's jack plane) works for me as well. I hold the scraper in the vise, and pass the plane over the edge. There is a woodworking vise mounted to the ski tuning bench. 6 of one, half dozen of the other.

Heck! I'll need to break down the reloading equipment and set up the ski vises. These seasonal changes are such a bother ;-)
 

firebanex

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Question! How many/much use do you get out of a scraper before it needs to be sharpened?

Either I'm scraping wrong or I should have sharpened my 3 scrapers a long time ago..
 

Primoz

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Question! How many/much use do you get out of a scraper before it needs to be sharpened?
Either I'm scraping wrong or I should have sharpened my 3 scrapers a long time ago..
For me, 1 ski (scraper has 4 edges to use afterall ;) ). For you, I doubt you can do very wrong when scraping skis, so I go with second option, that you 3 scrapers are long due for sharpening ;)
 

Steve

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As primoz said, 4 edges. I start right side up, logo facing me. Then upside down. That's one ski. Then turn it around, logo facing away. Second ski, right side up, right side down. So I put a new set of sharp edges on after each pair of skis. Maybe not necessary, but I can clearly feel the difference. Having that fresh edge for the next pair of skis is fantastic.

So for those of you who haven't used an electric sharpener, that's how much sharper it makes it. So sharp that after a few passes down one ski the edge is dulled. It's freakin sharp!
 

1chris5

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Just received this in the mail as I am trying to get tuning set-up as efficient as possible. Obviously a sharp scraper is part of that set-up. After researching via youtube etc. I decided to buy this toko sharpener below but I also noted in one video someone taking a flat file to the sides to make a crisp 90 degree angle. An added bonus is I didn't own a panzer file until now. I do like the electric sharpener but not in my budget and there are other bits and bobs to buy on my list. I upgrade my tuning tools this time each year. Roto brushes next year!

pc2846__1__61789.1498456572.jpg
 

martyg

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Question! How many/much use do you get out of a scraper before it needs to be sharpened?

Either I'm scraping wrong or I should have sharpened my 3 scrapers a long time ago..

My scarper usually gets two sharpenings per ski. I scrape once, sharpen, scrape again , then brush.

Overwhelmingly, the techs working on skis for magazine reviews and on the race circuit use a drywall sanding screen and a way to keep the scraper at 90 degrees. I use an old 90 degree edge file guide, and an old piece of porcelain tile as a flat base. My bench is stainless with a few dings in it - not totally flat.
 

RobSo

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Those of you with Mantac sharpeners: How do you manage constant pressure during sharpening? My scrapers always bow inwards. I have always pushed but thinking about pulling the scraper through the sharpener.
 

Atomicman

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Those of you with Mantac sharpeners: How do you manage constant pressure during sharpening? My scrapers always bow inwards. I have always pushed but thinking about pulling the scraper through the sharpener.
It sits in there solid and has a spring loaded metal piece that Pushes the scraper tight against the back wall. You don't need to use any downward pressure, let the machine do the work.....Less is more!
 

Doug Briggs

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I work in a commercial shop and use the belt sander (4" belt woodworker's sander, I think) that the bootfitters use on footbeds. A very light touch results in a very sharp, straight edge. 4 of them in fact. ogwink At home I use either sandpaper on the bench or a pansar (although my pansar needs replacement).

We have an electric scraper sharpener and it eats up scrapers like crazy. It also requires some attention to insure that the scraper doesn't kick off or grab the rotating knives causing defects in the edge of the scraper.

To each his own but the important thing is that you get a straight, smooth, sharp edge. If it isn't straight and square then you have to work a lot harder to remove the wax. Waxing and scraping shouldn't be a chore and a well sharpened scraper will make waxing soooo much nicer.
 

Atomicman

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Thanks Atomicman! I'll try again.
BE sure you press it tight against the back wall of the channel as you move the scrapper through. I make sure I have it pushed tight and well situated before moving it over the cutter. Let us know how it goes!


Watch this guy run the scraper

 
Last edited:

Philpug

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I work in a commercial shop and use the belt sander (4" belt woodworker's sander, I think) that the bootfitters use on footbeds. A very light touch results in a very sharp, straight edge. 4 of them in fact. ogwink At home I use either sandpaper on the bench or a pansar (although my pansar needs replacement).
Did it take 37 posts for someone to mention a 4" sander?
 

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