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Bike Lights for Night Riding

Tom K.

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If you don't want to break the bank, buy a pair of Bontrager Ion Pros. Put one on your bars and one on your helmet. Bontrager also has helmets with really well-integrated, magnetic light mounts.
 
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fosphenytoin

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Bike was stolen, just got a pre-owned road bike couple days ago. I am looking for a new set of bike lights. I like Bontrager very much, but a bit expensive. I prefer 1 front light + 2 rear lights (1 flash and 1 static). Also need bike rack and cell phone mount.
 

cantunamunch

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What bike did you get?

For quick-access, quick-remove rear marker lights on road bikes, I'm really a fan of Knog - small enough to mount on a roadie seat stay or rack strut. Mountable low so flashing mode doesn't bother other trail users so much. https://www.knog.com/product/plus-rear/?wmc-currency=USD

For seatpost-height (steady light) use, of course, you'll need a bigger battery and longer runtime.
 
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Rudi Riet

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The Knog lights are fine but if you need headlights that actually illuminate your path there are better options.

I'm a fan of Light & Motion and Cygolite if you want lights that actually allow you to see what's in front of you after dark. Personally I run Cygolite Metro Pro series lights and they tick all the boxes: great throw, multiple modes, good aim that doesn't blind other users, and exceptional battery life. Anything from their Metro series is quite good.

Light & Motion's advantage over Cygolite is their mount, which is a bit more user friendly and easier to install and remove. I find their lights don't have as good a throw pattern as Cygo.

For the rear I use a combination of a Knog (which is bright but has a very low runtime - approx 1.5 hours - if set on steady) and a Cygolite that's a little more chunky but has multiple modes and great battery life. I've also had excellent results with Planet Bike's rear lights - once the Cygo fails it'll be replaced by a Planet Bike, I'm fairly certain.
 

cantunamunch

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I'm a fan of Light & Motion and Cygolite if you want lights that actually allow you to see what's in front of you after dark. Personally I run Cygolite Metro Pro series lights and they tick all the boxes: great throw, multiple modes, good aim that doesn't blind other users, and exceptional battery life. Anything from their Metro series is quite good.

I see we've been shopping at the same places again:D
IMG_20220818_104757.jpg
 

chris_the_wrench

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Alot of the bikepackers like the Fenix lights. Especially the models with the swappable 18650 batteries.

 
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fosphenytoin

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What bike did you get?
Liv Avail 3

It is a road bike. Previous owner bought it this year and only used ~5 times. Never used a drop bar before, it will be an adjustment for me to get used to shift gears and brake.
2nd hand bike market is way overpriced here. People asking > $500 for a 10+ year old road bikes on FB Marketplace / CL.
There are many fixer uppers for pre-owned bikes in this area. Felt like I was competing with them to snatch a good deal at one point.

In my search process, I learned that one can make a small frame bike bigger but not the other way around, just like ski boots. There are not many small frame size bikes on the 2nd hand market, I was lucky to find one.

My nephew is an avid cyclist and he is here for a visit. I dragged him along to test ride bikes, he is knowledgable about bikes, gears and was helpful in giving me some pointers. He bought a 2nd hand Wilier Triestina carbon fiber bike here, will bring back to school.
Previous owner commented: "I prefer German cars but I like Italian bikes." I thought that was interesting....

Thanks everyone for the light recommendations. I will start shopping for accessories.
 

cantunamunch

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Gotcha. Yep, know the Avail 3. Nothing wrong with it and some dead-reliable easy-to-fix tech there.

Never used a drop bar before, it will be an adjustment for me to get used to shift gears and brake.

Yes. Expect to mess with all sorts of things, including saddle position.

2nd hand bike market is way overpriced here. People asking > $500 for a 10+ year old road bikes on FB Marketplace / CL.

Yes. FB and CL are *not* the place to go looking for deals unless you know exactly what you're looking for and can pounce in less than a day, sometimes less than an hour. There is a specific facebook group (DC marketplace) and club specific groups/listservs, the deals on those can be a LOT better than on general FB/CL. But, also, pandemic.


There are many fixer uppers for pre-owned bikes in this area. Felt like I was competing with them to snatch a good deal at one point.

True. Richmond and Baltimore are a bit better for that.


Thanks everyone for the light recommendations. I will start shopping for accessories.

Just as a heads up, there will be a lot less space on the handlebars than with a flat bar bike. Consider getting a bike computer and leaving your phone in a pocket?
 

Bozzenhagen

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I didn't read anything.
I would avoid the cheap knock-offs you see with the large battery packs (fire hazard).

I would get the best you can buy at the best lumens. This way you can have the light last at lower lumens where a cheaper light would be "maxed out" in lumens, draining the battery.

I have the Cygolite Expillion 850 USB from years ago; I normally used it in the 400 or 500 or so lumen mode; it worked out really well for a certain 12h+ ride I did; I was able to descent highway 74 from Kittredge to Morrison in complete darkness (Colorado).
Tail light was some lower lumen Cygolite Hotshot.

I used the headlight bar mounted; if you have an option for only one or the other (bar or helmet); get bar, it's really weird with the helmet as it is dependent on your exact head position; I'd only get a helmet mounted light as an addition; helpful for fast cornering. You are naturally going to deviate your head position here and there and don't want your only forward light source moving all over the place.

Also, I would never ride without a light on public roads (includes daytime). If you think a crowded ski slope is bad, think about the fact that you're more likely to find a person with extremely low levels of athleticism (coordination, reaction times, decision making, etc...) behind a wheel with a valid license than you are to find them on a ski slope; and they are likely to treat driving as background activity without any attention being exerted.
 

cantunamunch

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Sure, but only for the first 5-10 years.
:roflmao:

To @fosphenytoin with bikes like the Avail 3 remember - changes and expenses for comfort are valid and should be done.

Changes and expenses purely to get faster are a rabbit hole - which can wait for a more speed-oriented bike.

FWIW my personal metric is 10miles per $1 spent. Each dollar has to get 10 miles of use out of it - otherwise driving is cheaper.
 
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fosphenytoin

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Consider getting a bike computer and leaving your phone in a pocket?
No need a bike computer, cell phone will do. (I am not a hardcore cyclist like you.... :ogbiggrin:) I have to Google "bike computer", did not know it is a thing.

I will get a "thing" that attach to phone and then mount on handle bar for GPS. This is a must. Other must have accessories are, back rack for pannier, front + back light, a bell.

Thanks for the advice on handle bar space. Did not think of it before.

I had a bike accident >20 yrs ago, resulted in bilateral jaw fracture, broken chin and few teeth. It wasn't until 2 years ago that I started to feel comfortable biking on streets. I am still timid at times and don't like to go fast. Getting a road bike with drop bar will be an adjustment me, I shall embrace this change. My end goal: one day I can be good and fast enough to join the local group rides.
 

cantunamunch

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Thanks for the advice on handle bar space. Did not think of it before.

Yes, you're losing between 8 and 10 inches of width + hands tend to move around a lot more on road bars + your chin is further forward towards the bars so nothing is quite in the same spot as it was on the hybrid - meaning you have to drop your head to look at it more than you did on the hybrid. That last is why most of us do GPS bike units in front of the bars.

I had a bike accident >20 yrs ago, resulted in bilateral jaw fracture, broken chin and few teeth. It wasn't until 2 years ago that I started to feel comfortable biking on streets. I am still timid at times and don't like to go fast. Getting a road bike with drop bar will be an adjustment me, I shall embrace this change.

If you're really uncomfortable reaching that far you can ask for cyclocross style interruptor levers. They are add-on brake actuators that provide an alternate, seated-upright control point with your hands on the flats of the bar. Nothing else about the bike changes, and you still have the regular lever braking and shifting functions.

Thus:
IMG_20220819_231012.jpg




No need a bike computer, cell phone will do. (I am not a hardcore cyclist like you.... :ogbiggrin:)

Hah. Thanks, but I hate cycling. I'm just a skater who likes to stay active when it rains...




 
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firebanex

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I really really really like the little Bontrager Flare R City for my rear light. It's a tiny little cube with 6 hours of burn time on the flash modes. People tell me multiple times each summer that they can see me so much better than others. Had it for 5 years and it's just as strong as ever. https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...ntrager-flare-r-city-rear-bike-light/p/14241/

Front DRL's, I'm still using my Bontrager Ion 450 for daylight use and am happy with the weight and burn time. Got it mounted upside down under my out front computer mount. However, I just got the Outbound Lighting Detour Gravel/Road light. If you plan on riding road type things in the actual dark, this might be the light to choose with it's cut off beam and output. I've only got a couple daylight rides on it so far. Ask me in a couple weeks once I've gotten some night rides in with it.
 

Andy Mink

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B6A0370-2100x1401-01b3f73b-697c-4257-b9e2-f38408b497fb_1024x1024.jpg
 

Bozzenhagen

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I opt for a cycling computer to keep the phone topped up on battery power for really stupid rides out into far areas, with cell signal hopefully.

Or, shove the phone into airplane mode to prolong battery life while still tracking via GPS.
 

zircon

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No need a bike computer, cell phone will do. (I am not a hardcore cyclist like you.... :ogbiggrin:) I have to Google "bike computer", did not know it is a thing.

I will get a "thing" that attach to phone and then mount on handle bar for GPS. This is a must.
One reason for a bike computer is they’re more shock resistant than your average cell phone. When you crash or hit a big pothole and bounce it loose from its mount, it’s much more likely to live to tell the tale. And also cheaper to replace if it doesn’t.
 
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fosphenytoin

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There is a specific facebook group (DC marketplace) and club specific groups/listservs, the deals on those can be a LOT better than on general FB/CL.
Would you be able to share the FB group name(s) / listserves? I am looking to get few more accessories for the bike.

I like my "new" bike so far, like the drop bar and it is more nimble than cross bar.

Only thing I don't like, shock absorption is not as good as my old bike. Is it because of the aluminum frame? It can get very bouncy on Mt. Vernon trail. Can't justify the cost to get a carbon fiber frame for my use purpose, but I am open to it if there is a good deal out there.
 

scott43

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The frame doesn't really absorb shocks. This is a bit of a misconception. They have different sounds and feel different but the absorption in your tires far exceeds the frames compliance. Unless you have some kind of elastomer out built in compliance. Even you seat post will move more than the frame does.
 

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