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Wade

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I bought some new skis and didn’t think all of the details completely through. They come with a plate and bindings that are only compatibility with din. Out of 9 pairs, these would be the only set that aren’t grip walk compatible (I have and like grip walk soles on my boots).

I’m thinking through my options which I guess include swapping out the sole pads from grip walk to din when I’m going to be skiing these. It would be a pain in the ass and I don’t really want to do it, but it’s an option.

My question is whether there is any difference on the heels of bindings that are grip walk compatible vs bindings that are din only. If I only need to swap out the toe pads when I’m going to ski these, maybe it’s slightly more viable than it would be to swap out the heels as well.
 

onenerdykid

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My question is whether there is any difference on the heels of bindings that are grip walk compatible vs bindings that are din only. If I only need to swap out the toe pads when I’m going to ski these, maybe it’s slightly more viable than it would be to swap out the heels as well.
GripWalk grip pads have different dimensions in the toe and in the heel. Do not swap out toes only- do both.
 

Wade

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GripWalk grip pads have different dimensions in the toe and in the heel. Do not swap out toes only- do both.

Thanks. I was hoping it would work but suspected it wouldn't.

Is the reason it doesn't work because the geometry of the toe pad / AFD interface changes the way the heel sits? The reason I thought it may work was because when updating Pivots to work with Grip Walk, the only change was to swap the toe plate / AFD with no change to the heel.
 

Tom K.

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These binders look like a No-Go with a Grip Walk sole, but would appreciate some confirmation.

Thanks!

IMG_1484.JPG


IMG_1485.JPG
 

side-swipe

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Any preference of the strive 13 vs Wtr 13 sth2? I noticed Salomon got rid of the sth2 Wtr 13’s from this year of offerings.

I’m assuming the strive replaced it? Looking to put these on a rustler 10.
 

twomartinis

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Binding screws are not self-tapping. I tap with about three turns of the tap, about halfway down the hole or so.

Even non-metal topsheet skis can benefit from tapping. It reduces volcanoing which means your binding has better opportunity to sit flatly on the ski. I'll use the 3.5 mm bit and tap non-metal topsheets. Todays skis use a wide range of materials and some are much harder than others even if not metal. Tapping insures that you have a good threaded hole. It is a tad excessive, but the number of skis returned with failed mounts is zero, in my case.

I even tap and glue plastic plates. Again, it insures a quality hole with threads and the glue hold the screw and makes it much less likely to vibrate loose over time.

Another note: If you pull a binding and use the same holes to remount, extra care must be taken to insure the screw uses the same threads that were in the hole. This applies to metal or non-metal topsheets. Put the screw in the binding hole, press down on the screw while turning it counter clockwise (unscrewing it) until you feel the screw settle into the old threads. Then gently start screwing in. It will be trivially easy to screw as the screw threads are matched with the ski threads. If you feel any resistance, you are crossing your thread, weakening the hole and increasing the likelihood of a failed remount. You'll either pull the screw under extreme pressure or have created a space for water to penetrate.
So is a bit of volcanoing okay, or is it something that needs to be addressed (if it exists)? A pair of my skis have the rear binding ~1mm to 1/16" off the ski, up on volcanoed holes. My guess is the holes were not tapped...

If it's an issue, what is the recommended practice for fixing?

I have sharp planes, chisels, drill press, etc. and know how to use them ;) but as this would be a high-stakes operation for success/failure... I seek the wisdom of this group!
 

Doug Briggs

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So is a bit of volcanoing okay, or is it something that needs to be addressed (if it exists)? A pair of my skis have the rear binding ~1mm to 1/16" off the ski, up on volcanoed holes. My guess is the holes were not tapped...

If it's an issue, what is the recommended practice for fixing?

I have sharp planes, chisels, drill press, etc. and know how to use them ;) but as this would be a high-stakes operation for success/failure... I seek the wisdom of this group!
We use a sureform to take down volcanoes. A panser file would work well, too.

Running a tap through the holes matching the existing threads work be a good idea. You don't want to set new threads in the ski, but insure the existing threads, from the old screws, are accurate.
 
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twomartinis

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You do not need to tap skis that don't have a metal top sheet or mounting layer. You DO need to tap any ski that has a metal top sheet. You can tap a ski without metal to help prevent volcanoing. No more than three turns are required in either case. You don't tap the entire hole, just the top sheet in either metal or non-metal case. You are making the threads for the screw in a metal sheet so it won't delaminate the ski during the drilling process. You do it for non-metal skis to reduce volcanoing.

If you don't tap a non-metal ski and there is volcanoing of significance, you'll know because you can see between the ski and the binding; there will be a gap. If there is, just back out the screws, file or scrape off the volcano and CAREFULLY re-screw the bindings to the ski.

ANY TIME you reuse an existing hole in a ski you want to place the screw in the hole, slowly turn the screw backwards (lefty loosey) while gently pressing down until you feel the threads of the screw settle into the threads of the ski. THEN you can start screwing the screw back in (righty tighty).

ALWAYS use a waterproof glue when mounting. It keeps moisture out, helps retain the screw (you'd be amazed at how many screws are loose in bindings I see in the shop) and provides a more positive interface for the screw/ski interface.
Hey thanks for the reply. Just found this ^^^ other post as well.

Will yank & file tonight (got to inspect my gear a bit closer, heh heh!)
 
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Any preference of the strive 13 vs Wtr 13 sth2? I noticed Salomon got rid of the sth2 Wtr 13’s from this year of offerings.
The Strive 14 has a better toe, the Warden 13 has a better heel (it is shared with the Strive 16). Between the two, I will choose the Strive 14.
 

Doug Briggs

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Hey thanks for the reply. Just found this ^^^ other post as well.

Will yank & file tonight (got to inspect my gear a bit closer, heh heh!)
One other thing to check is whether or not water got into the screw holes. Volcanoing is often the result of poor installation which can result in core rot.
 

Jeronimo

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Stupid question: With regards to the STH2 binding, are the Salomon/Armada/Atomic all the same binding just different brand? Why they do this?

Also, the Strive binding and the STH2 binding are.... different? They look really really similar.
 

KingGrump

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Stupid question: With regards to the STH2 binding, are the Salomon/Armada/Atomic all the same binding just different brand? Why they do this?

Like most things in the skiing world. It's always marketing. Just to suck the money from the unaware.


Also, the Strive binding and the STH2 binding are.... different? They look really really similar.

Take both apart and compare the innards. I am sure you will find some dissimilarities.
 

Tony Storaro

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Stupid question: With regards to the STH2 binding, are the Salomon/Armada/Atomic all the same binding just different brand? Why they do this?

To give you a choice of colour. Imagine that for some reason you don't like the red of the Salomon STH2 (yeah crazy I know) and you prefer black.
Well, Armada it is then...

STH2 are WAY more beautiful than the Strives which are plain ugly.
 

neonorchid

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Stupid question: With regards to the STH2 binding, are the Salomon/Armada/Atomic all the same binding just different brand? Why they do this?

Also, the Strive binding and the STH2 binding are.... different? They look really really similar.
STH2 WTR 13 has 3D Driver Toe multi directional release toe :micdrop: / 52mm elasticity. Binding has a 24mm stand height. 1145grams (half pair)
-
Strive 14 toe only releases laterally :nono: 19.5mm stand height, 980grams


Atomic & Armada rebranded Solomon's for fan boys to do matchy matchy with Atomic & Armada skis and also for us to save some money on the overstocked brand name put on sale :facepalm:
 
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Philpug

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Stupid question: With regards to the STH2 binding, are the Salomon/Armada/Atomic all the same binding just different brand? Why they do this?
Because all three brands have their own sales-forces and distribution channels that are responsible for their own sales. Not every shop stocks all three or even two and this gives them the ability to offer the bindings.
Like most things in the skiing world. It's always marketing. Just to suck the money from the unaware.
How is this sucking money from the unaware? All these brand's bindings are priced identical.
 

onenerdykid

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Atomic & Armada rebranded Solomon's for fan boys to do matchy matchy with Atomic & Armada skis and also for us to save some money on the overstocked brand name put on sale :facepalm:
General PSA here (not directed solely at you) - Salomon is not the binding company and the other brands just rebadge it. All binding projects are split and co-developed, and many (think Icon) are steered by Atomic. If anyone thinks Salomon is the sole driving force behind the binding development is greatly mistaken and listens to their hype machine a little too much.

Other fun fact: there are more bindings with an Atomic logo on them than a Salomon logo.
 

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