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Claymore76

Need for Speed
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Joined
Mar 23, 2019
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37
Location
New Hampshire
Howdy, all. I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone who is more gear-savvy can answer.

I've been running NASTAR at Sunapee this season. Been having a good time, and seeing some progress. Dropped from a mid-40s handicap to (very) high 20s so far, and would love to see if I can't get that down to mid-20s by season's end in a few weeks. I'm 5'10, 230 pounds, running on a pair of Head iTitan 177s. The skis are awesome for carving and running around on the mountain, but in the gates they feel just a touch....cumbersome? (Struggling to find the right word. They maneuver adequately, but I feel like they need just a little more nimbleness.)

1) One area to improve on is that I need to move through the transition between turns quicker. Would picking up a pair of skis that are narrower help with that? (I believe the specs on the iTitans are 80 mm underfoot?)

2) I'm still running with a pair of rental-grade no-name boots that I picked up at a swap years ago. (Wanted to upgrade them before this season, but, it was that or replace the ball joints and a shot universal on my Jeep. Argh.) I know people swear that high performance boots make for better performance, but how do they do this? Back in high school, I had boots for racing, but aside from being tight, the only thing I really remember being different about them from my boots now was the angle at which they were made. They kind of pushed me forward and helped keep my center of mass over the middle of the ski and out of the back seat. From reading posts and boot reviews, though, I feel like I'm missing something. Anyone know a good reference for Race Boots 101?

Thanks for your time!
 

anders_nor

Making fresh tracks
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Jan 18, 2020
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on snow
bad boots or bad fitting boots, good skis is like having a tires that doesnt even fit on the rim and trying to go racing.

A coworker was fairly decent at skiing, but around center going edge to edge he was always kinda.. squirrly and weird, he asked for some help with a tuneup of skis and I noticed they were set for 335mm sole... I said it was weird, surely he didnt have that large boots/fit, he is 15cm shorter than me, turns out he had mixed up boots on a company skiiing trip, we bought identical gear for everybody, and just swapped boots/skis with a coworker with large feet, that coworker had never skiied after that trip so hadent noticed... so for the last 7-8 years he skied with mondo 29.5 instead of 27.5 gear.... I helped him score some new boots, fixed skis, even a new pair of skis, his level and skills on skiiing has improved this season so fast its just amazing. quote "I dont slide around when turning now" .oO

He has always loved to ski and been happy when skiiing, but now he has new love for it.
 

Philpug

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Anyone know a good reference for Race Boots 101?
I am not sure you need to swig the pendulum all the way to a full race plug boot yet but a proper fitting boot is the next obvious step. As @anders_nor said, you have a psuedo race car in the iTitans with underinflated balding Pepboys tires on it.
 
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Doug Briggs

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What all the others said about boots applies. I have nothing to add there.

Quicker transitions will likely be helped by properly fit boots, but generally timing is more of a head-game than an equipment issue. Moving your line up the hill a bit (crossing the rise line farther up the hill) generally will allow you to turn where appropriate rather than be forced to keep up all the time (avoiding the low, late line). Once you feel you are not playing catch up at each gate, you can begin to tighten up your line and start crossing the rise-line closer to the gate. Getting late at the gate is generally the most common mistake people make in relation to timing. Being too high on the rise-line is almost as common. So timing is (just about) everything in the mental game of racing.

The rise-line is the same as the fall-line, except above the gate. Where you cross the rise-line determines the outcome of the turn. You want to cross the rise-line high enough up the hill to allow you to make a nicely shaped turn at the gate but not so high that you have to release your edges (double turn) to re-shape your turn to keep from running through the gate.

Tightening up your line generally involves moving the crossing point of the rise-line farther down the hill. When you do this, you will be making smaller turns, getting more g's out of the turn and covering less terrain. It is a constant balancing act of timing/line versus your ability to actually make a quality turn. You can tighten your line as your physical ability to deal with the increased forces and speed improves; better edge control, stronger legs, etc.
 

trailtrimmer

Stuck in the Flatlands
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Boots and a sharp tune to start. Are you running a 1/3 yet? I could get single digit handicaps on my Titans, but they were not optimal.

As for race boots vs non race boots, I'll root for the non-race, frontside performance boot category.

Race boots have no replaceable sole parts, you need to walk on snow or have cat tracks or SkiTrax on all the time on hard surfaces.
Race boots are slippery as hell walking on snow compared to ones with some grip on the sole. Without traction aides, they are dangerous on icy pavement.
Race boots are like having your foot frozen in a block of ice.

If your boot fitter says a low volume performance boot will work, you'll get 95% of the performance of a non-plug race boot without the hassle, but you'll likely still want boot heaters.

FWIW, nobody on my beer league skis in plugs and my team mate who's in 3rd or 4th every week skis on two generation old RX100's and they certainly don't hold him back. I'm also considering going to a RX130LV instead of my RS130 for everything duty.
 

ARL67

Invisible Airwaves Crackle With Life
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^^^ IZIPIZI ... I luvs me a good palindrome :thumb:
 
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Claymore76

Claymore76

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markojp, anders_nor, philpug: Thank you for your analogies. I'm going to spend some more time studying this area; I didn't know it was potentially that much of a difference-maker.

trailtrimmer: I see what you are saying. Also, thanks for the anecdote. I'm planning on trying out a beer league next season, so *thumbsup* Also, no, just doing a 1/2 at the moment, but you're right-I have the ability and tools, I should start playing with the side bevels to see what the effects translate to.

Doug Briggs: Thank you for your detailed explanation. This is my first year back racing after almost 30 years of not, and I've been trying to soak up as much as I can. The concept of "lines" is something I am vaguely familiar with, but have been pushing off for in-depth study on "another day" to focus on more basic techniques. To that end, if you can recommend any books, I'd be glad to give them a spin.

Thank you all for your time today.
 

Johnny V.

Half Fast Hobby Racer
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Here's a link that may be helpful to you or at least a good refresher:


Where are you racing in NH?
 

JPL

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Quality boots , probably 120 flex and some decent skis most likely not wider then 72mm would be a step in the right direction. The Nastar GS skis such as the Fischer RC are a great choice for racing and free skiing, 90% of my skiing is on that model. Find an ski area that has Nastar, where you can get quite a few runs in at a time and ask the Pacesetter to watch you, usually they are also instructors/coaches and don't mind helping you.
 

Mike Thomas

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I'm not sure this question-
I know people swear that high performance boots make for better performance, but how do they do this?
has really been answered.

The ski boot is there to connect you to your ski, all energy you impart into the ski is transmitted via the plastic shell of the boot into your skis, all information from the ski and what it is doing is transmitted to you via the plastic shell of the boot. The ski boot is the nexus of all performance in skiing. For higher performance skiing (such as ski racing), getting the plastic shell as close to the foot as possible is the goal. A closer, tighter fit requires a more accurately chosen boot shape. This isn't all that easy to do without some experienced guidance. Guidance that isn't "my friend says Tecnica is the best". With a high performance boot there is less liner, it is denser/ firmer foam, so the plastic has to closely mimic the foot shape, or it needs to be modified to get it there. Once you get there, energy from you goes directly into the ski and feedback is also directly received, #nofilter, by you. That close fit makes it much easier to hold a ski on edge on firm snow, having the lower leg securely held by the boot cuff is a real game changer! Having the foot securely held by the boot clog (and a well made footbed) allows your feet to relax, taking tension out of the kinetic chain above your feet. This makes it easier to stay on line in a rough course (or just skiing around). If your toes are clenching, trying to keep your feet in place in poor fitting ski boot, all the muscles above that are also firing and under tension making staying in balance more difficult. Once the boot fits your foot then you can work on getting the boot dialed in so you are standing on a flat ski (cuff alignment and canting). A good fitting boot that has you balanced fore/aft and side to side will change your ski experience like nothing else in skiing.
 

oldschoolskier

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Here is the simple secret to boots aside of good fit.

Stiffer means faster and more powerful response.

It is easy to make too stiff boots softer, impossible to soft boots stiffer.

Note there is too stiff based on ability.

As to skis, as you improve generally stiffer better built skis out perform, however boots must match (or exceed) performance of ski. Remember higher performance generally equals less forgiveness (boots and skis).

Which ski or boot, now that’s a loaded question I won’t answer.
 
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Claymore76

Claymore76

Need for Speed
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Joined
Mar 23, 2019
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37
Location
New Hampshire
Where are you racing in NH?
At Mount Sunapee on the NASTAR course. Going to add a beer league next season, most likely either at Pat's Peak or Gunstock. Ultimate goal is to try my hand at New England Masters, but that's way down the road-and it is about the journey and the skills progression for me, anyway.

Took the collective advice and went boot shopping. Wound up with a pair of Tecnica Mach One HV in the 120 flex. (Given the dimensions of my feet, a low volume setup wasn't going to work, per the bootfitter.) Got a couple quick runs in.

I can't really put into words how different it felt, but I had a ridiculously wide smile the whole time. I think I am in for a very, very fun rest of the season. Back at it today and Sunday. Again, thank you everyone, and may you all get some great runs in this weekend.
 

François Pugh

Skiing the powder
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Great White North (Eastern side currently)
At Mount Sunapee on the NASTAR course. Going to add a beer league next season, most likely either at Pat's Peak or Gunstock. Ultimate goal is to try my hand at New England Masters, but that's way down the road-and it is about the journey and the skills progression for me, anyway.

Took the collective advice and went boot shopping. Wound up with a pair of Tecnica Mach One HV in the 120 flex. (Given the dimensions of my feet, a low volume setup wasn't going to work, per the bootfitter.) Got a couple quick runs in.

I can't really put into words how different it felt, but I had a ridiculously wide smile the whole time. I think I am in for a very, very fun rest of the season. Back at it today and Sunday. Again, thank you everyone, and may you all get some great runs in this weekend.
:thumb: BTW, it's perfectly normal to go back to the bootfitter for extra adjustments after skiing the boots for a few days.
 

TylerDurden

In the parking lot (formerly "At the base lodge")
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Intervale, NH
A proper performance boot will transfer the energy to the ski which will result in quicker response and faster turn transition. This typically translates to a stiffer boot flex than an intermediate ski boot that is more forgiving and absorbs much of the energy transfer.
 

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