Build your own diamond "puck" stones

[Noodler]

I was considering buying the diamond pucks at Tools4boards, but they're kind of expensive for what you get. I figured out that you can buy stainless steel 1/4" discs and KGS diamond sheet in various grits. Trace the discs onto the diamond sheets and, voilà, diamond puck stones for ski tuning. Cost of each puck is less than $10.

The parts:

The completed pucks

:

 

[Noodler]

Just a quick update bump on the results of this endeavor. I will never go back to using rectangular shaped stones after using pucks. The pucks do exactly what I hoped; they provide much more surface area as a tool when working with the stones and make much more efficient use of the available diamond material since the pucks are so easily rotatable into every possible position.

 

[Dave Marshak]

Why diamond? Why not just emery paper?

dm

 

[nemesis256]

Just a quick update bump on the results of this endeavor. I will never go back to using rectangular shaped stones after using pucks. The pucks do exactly what I hoped; they provide much more surface area as a tool when working with the stones and make much more efficient use of the available diamond material since the pucks are so easily rotatable into every possible position.

The one annoying thing is if you have skinny skis where the binding is wider than the ski. The puck comes into contact with the binding unless the puck isn't sticking out much.

 

[Noodler]

The one annoying thing is if you have skinny skis where the binding is wider than the ski. The puck comes into contact with the binding unless the puck isn't sticking out much.

Easy enough to position the puck on the guide to only expose enough of the puck to contact just the ski edge.

 

[Noodler]

Why diamond? Why not just emery paper?

dm

I guess because all the "official" good stones used for ski tuning are diamond based. I used Moonflex stones for years and years, but these are definitely a step up in precision/efficiency, life span, and much lower in cost.

 

[Scruffy]

Just a quick update bump on the results of this endeavor. I will never go back to using rectangular shaped stones after using pucks. The pucks do exactly what I hoped; they provide much more surface area as a tool when working with the stones and make much more efficient use of the available diamond material since the pucks are so easily rotatable into every possible position.

Nice. Are you using the ORB tool? or just using the pucks in normal file guides?

 

[Noodler]

Nice. Are you using the ORB tool? or just using the pucks in normal file guides?

Just using the pucks with normal file guides and held in place by an Irwin mini-clamp.

 

[Tony S]

What's the diameter of those?

 

[nemesis256]

Easy enough to position the puck on the guide to only expose enough of the puck to contact just the ski edge.

Yeah that's what I do, but it's a bit annoying and you also get less coverage/sharpening from the puck.

 

[Uncle-A]

Easy enough to position the puck on the guide to only expose enough of the puck to contact just the ski edge.

How about some photos?

 

[cantunamunch]

What's the diameter of those?

Looks like 2" - note that the paper he's using comes in 3.5"x2" so it would be a bit silly to use 3" discs.

 

[nemesis256]

How about some photos?

Here's a couple from mine, just hand holding. First photo is the ideal position so you get the most contact with the stone. Second is roughly where I have to put it to not run into the binding.

 

[Uncle-A]

Here's a couple from mine, just hand holding. First photo is the ideal position so you get the most contact with the stone. Second is roughly where I have to put it to not run into the binding.
View attachment 154376 View attachment 154377

Thanks, that looks good.

 

[Noodler]

What's the diameter of those?

2"

 

[Noodler]

Thanks, that looks good.

It does, and even pulled back a bit to avoid hitting the bindings, you're getting way more surface area than with a bar shaped stone (at least the way I use them, I never run the bar fully lengthwise as then the bar is too long to properly contact the edge if the sidecut is tight).

The key is that the bars tend to run over the edge over the same parts of the bar every time. They can only be re-positioned so much, whereas a circle has more practicality in being able to easily rotate to avoid constant wear of the same spots.

 

[Tony S]

It does, and even pulled back a bit to avoid hitting the bindings, you're getting way more surface area than with a bar shaped stone (at least the way I use them, I never run the bar fully lengthwise as then the bar is too long to properly contact the edge if the sidecut is tight).

The key is that the bars tend to run over the edge over the same parts of the bar every time. They can only be re-positioned so much, whereas a circle has more practicality in being able to easily rotate to avoid constant wear of the same spots.

Yup

 

[ThomasD]

Why diamond? Why not just emery paper?

dm

Good question. My concern with the KGS product isn't the abrasive material but the backer, which is canvas. If it compresses to any noticeable extent that will tend to round the edge. On a sport 1/2 tune this might not be an issue, but if you are wanting race quality edges it could make a difference.

 

[mdf]

Nice. Are you using the ORB tool? or just using the pucks in normal file guides?

The standalone Tool4Board "pucks" almost-but-not-quite fit in their orb. I might have been able to force it, but it seemed like that might damage the detents.

 

[Noodler]

Good question. My concern with the KGS product isn't the abrasive material but the backer, which is canvas. If it compresses to any noticeable extent that will tend to round the edge. On a sport 1/2 tune this might not be an issue, but if you are wanting race quality edges it could make a difference.

I was also concerned about the backing, but those concerns were unfounded once I received the product. It is quite thin and once it was glued to the puck, there is no "give" in the tool. When I glued them up, I clamped all the pucks together tightly between some aluminum bar stock and left them to dry overnight.