Building a truck bed shell

[DanoT]

Here is an interesting propane heater. It is radiant heat but has a very small fan that exhausts the combustion gases and draws very little 12v power. The PlatCat is manufactured by a Mom & Pop company and they might be pricey:

ThePlatCat

www.ventedcatheater.com

 

[Doug Briggs]

Thanks to everyone for the input on heaters.

I planned my build somewhat poorly in hindsight. Propane is readily available but bulky to store and transport, especially as it really needs to be external. I'm finding that gasoline might be the best heating solution as it is easy to get and I already have storage for it. I can choose between going places or staying warm if push comes to shove.

In retrospect, I can also use alcohol for cooking; I'm used to it already on my boat. That takes me down to 2 fuels, both liquid without concern for possible explosive conditions. 12v slow cookers may have a place, too, depending on how robust I build my solar.

So if I pay the premium for a gasoline heater I reduce storage requirements and get excellent heating performance. I also get a reputable manufacturer with a history of quality as well as service which seems a small price to pay for what I should consider to be a long term investment.

 

[James]

Thanks to everyone for the input on heaters.

I planned my build somewhat poorly in hindsight. Propane is readily available but bulky to store and transport, especially as it really needs to be external. I'm finding that gasoline might be the best heating solution as it is easy to get and I already have storage for it. I can choose between going places or staying warm if push comes to shove.

In retrospect, I can also use alcohol for cooking; I'm used to it already on my boat. That takes me down to 2 fuels, both liquid without concern for possible explosive conditions. 12v slow cookers may have a place, too, depending on how robust I build my solar.

So if I pay the premium for a gasoline heater I reduce storage requirements and get excellent heating performance. I also get a reputable manufacturer with a history of quality as well as service which seems a small price to pay for what I should consider to be a long term investment.

It might make sense to have the dealer do the final install. If something goes south, first question is install. I’d stay away from small makers if there’s no ul or csa approval for the same reasons.

 

[Doug Briggs]

It might make sense to have the dealer do the final install. If something goes south, first question is install. I’d stay away from small makers if there’s no ul or csa approval for the same reasons.

My mechanic just moved out to western CO to a horse farm. They are getting into the van conversion business after doing a conversion of their own. I'm definitely going to see if they sell gasoline heaters. I'm sure they install them. As the fuel pump on my truck is on the tank, I think I'll need another hole in the tank to extract fuel. You can't put a tap in the fuel line if it is between the pump and the truck's engine.

 

[DanoT]

All of the heater installs that I have seen, they run a new fuel line from the gas or diesel truck tank to the heater. The fuel line enters the tank about a 1/4 way up the tank so that in a worse case scenario your heater runs out of fuel (Its always in the middle of the night) but there is still a 1/4 tank for the truck engine to access, NOT leaving you stranded.

When I needed a new propane regulator/auto switch over for my 2 propane tanks I did a DIY install but was concerned about over-tightening the fittings so I took the camper to an RV place and asked them to inspect for leaks. They told me I did not get the fittings tight enough (as I suspected) and so they fixed me up for very little $.

 

[Doug Briggs]

Most of the heater installs I've watched included the tank so no taps involved. RVs with Tito (FB page) tapped into his fuel line for gasoline. Some vehicles come with secondary taps pre-installed, so I've read. I'll have a pro drop my tank and add a new fuel line at minimum. The rest of an install is pretty direct and easy. Apparently the angle of the heater's fuel pump is the most common mistake: between 15° and 30° with the heater side up is required.

I've learned the value of torque wrenches lately. My truck's aftermarket roof rack included one. I saw the tech at the LBS use one on my seat post; overtighten it and your dropper won't. And on the wheels of my truck. For the first time in 45 years, a shop serviced my tires (rotate and balance) and said to come back after 100 miles to re-torque. 45 years! I happened to have a torque wrench for my wheels as when I got new wheels the lug nut was different than stock. No one told me about that at the time. I'm glad I didn't need to change a flat. I found out when I was doing my own brake service. A torque wrench and socket was cheaper and more convenient to store in my truck than an X style wrench.

 

[Rich McP]

I planned my build somewhat poorly in hindsight.

If you didn't think that then you didn't learn anything. That's what first builds are for. You done good.

 

[Doug Briggs]

If you didn't think that then you didn't learn anything. That's what first builds are for. You done good.

Make no mistake. I'm pleased with it, warts and all. I do like learning.

 

[pete]

I had it weighed on a set of commercial scales. It came in at 360 pounds. I had to adjust for a full vs half full tank and some gear I had onboard when the shell was on. The only other thing that will be added to the shell, that won't be removed when the shell comes off, is a solar panel. The controller and battery will be separate from the shell as will the berth and any additional infrastructure. Everything will be added with quick removal in mind, so attachments will be removeable pin hinges, machine screws and inserts, tied or lashed in place.

The intent is that I can easily and quickly off load stuff at a camp site during fair weather as well as transition between seasons and uses. Nothing will be 'built in' in a traditional sense. It truly is a shell. In hind sight I could have used 1/2 instead of 3/4 inch for the side walls. That'd save maybe 50 pounds. It might get lighter when I cut out a rectangle of 1/2 plywood 36 x 18 inches and fill it with an awning style, plexiglass window.

FYI, @Doug Briggs

found this "Deal of the Day" solar panel pretty cool simply as it's quite flexible so should fit a curved rooftop nicely, I posed it in the camper thread:

Show Us Your Camper Van!

I put my deposit down last summer and heard last week that it should be this fall, keeping my fingers crossed! Do we need a new Ekko forum here ?! lol

www.skitalk.com

 

[James]

For the first time in 45 years, a shop serviced my tires (rotate and balance) and said to come back after 100 miles to re-torque. 45 years!

It’s usually printed on the ticket. Last I looked, it was 25 miles. I asked the guy how many people did that. He said “90%”. Yeah, right. No way.

 

[KingGrump]

It’s usually printed on the ticket. Last I looked, it was 25 miles. I asked the guy how many people did that. He said “90%”. Yeah, right. No way.

The retorquing of the lug nuts/bolts is highly recommended especially for new aluminum wheels.

 

[Doug Briggs]

FYI, @Doug Briggs

found this "Deal of the Day" solar panel pretty cool simply as it's quite flexible so should fit a curved rooftop nicely, I posed it in the camper thread:

Show Us Your Camper Van!

I put my deposit down last summer and heard last week that it should be this fall, keeping my fingers crossed! Do we need a new Ekko forum here ?! lol

www.skitalk.com

I may get a flexible panel, although a pro installer said to consider other brands of flexible panels as the Renogy ones degrade after a few years. He recommended a Chinese brand. I don't have the data but can get it when I need it.

I used a Renogy flexible 100w panel on my boat two summers ago. I downgraded to a 50w rigid panel as the flexi one was inboard and in the way. I could mount the rigid one outboard and it was more than adequate for my low electric needs.


As you can see, this one obscured my forward hatch. It also had the potential to interfere with the jib sheets.


The rigid one hangs over the back, doesn't extend much beyond the rudder so doesn't impinge on dock space and is easy to remove when needed. Being outboard it was usually shade free.

 

[Doug Briggs]

The retorquing of the lug nuts/bolts is highly recommended especially for new aluminum wheels.

I had to pull my wheels to repaint the hubcaps that were rusting. Once to pull the hubcaps, once to replace them. I was quite amazed at how loose a few of the nuts had gotten after 50 or so miles.

 

[pete]

The retorquing of the lug nuts/bolts is highly recommended especially for new aluminum wheels.

started torqueing to recommended when getting Al rims on the vehicles, but I'll note that I tend to work up to it in several steps and I have had very few times I've ever had to retorque, and this maybe a single lug still quite snug.

My speculation is that every nut gets seated as best it can and the wheel won't reseat, but I still check. Got three vehicles with Al Rims and do snows (or rotate) on em, so its comes out at least 128 lugs a year tightened.

 

[KingGrump]

started torqueing to recommended when getting Al rims on the vehicles, but I'll note that I tend to work up to it in several steps and I have had very few times I've ever had to retorque, and this maybe a single lug still quite snug.

My speculation is that every nut gets seated as best it can and the wheel won't reseat, but I still check. Got three vehicles with Al Rims and do snows (or rotate) on em, so its comes out at least 128 lugs a year tightened.

Old aluminum rims aren't fussy. Never had to retorque them.
It's the brand new ones that I have to pay more attention to. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[James]

Every nut has its day.