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Definitive washing technique for your ski outerwear?

Erik Timmerman

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What is the best way of washing your outerwear without wrecking DWRs, etc.?
 

ZionPow

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I use Graingers wash and repel on both work and play ski outerwear. I throw them in the washer and add extra water after the wash cycle starts. Then dry on medium heat setting to lock in the DWR.

Grangers Wash + Repel Clothing 2 in 1 Gear Wash and Weather Proofing in One Cycle, Plastic Bottle, 10 oz
 

graham418

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Nikwax.

shopping.png
 

LuliTheYounger

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Gore-Tex's advice whenever we talk with them is that most people are so worried about washing protocol that they wildly underwash their DWR gear, and the grime that builds up interferes with the DWR way more than washing really can. I personally do something like Tech Wash out of paranoia, but I think as long as you're following the tag instructions & doing it regularly you should be fine. I swear I remember one rep saying that they wash all of their gear like once a week with just regular detergent, which kind of blew my mind.
 

Posaune

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The manufacturer of my outerwear says to wash it with regular detergent and then tumble dry it hot. The idea behind the hot setting is that the high temperature is supposed to re-set the waterproofing. It seems to work fine.
 

raytseng

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A lot also depends on your washer too; if you want to get into details
I've found I have to semi-handwash and use a washtub quish the item with some of the detergent and handwork some of the especially stained/sweaty parts; otherwise the machine cycle does not get great results (top loader though, "bulky" cycle); and waterproof items tend to just float around.

As far as washers, I think front loader is going to be superior to top loader; And even then, if you are to do 5 or 6 garments to get a Full Large load that will work better than doing a small load with only 1 or 2 items.
So obviously, this means you need to go out and get 3 full ski outfits rather than just the 1 jacket and 1 pair of pants.
 
Last edited:

Tony S

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What is the best way of washing your outerwear without wrecking DWRs, etc.?
Yeah, good luck with this. Pretty soon we'll be back to Johnson Woolen Mills for everything.
 

Wilhelmson

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I don’t think tech wash does much. Maybe you have to use it all the time. Tx direct was ok but at 1 bottle for 2 garments not worth it for 4 of us.
Now we just wash regular and I spray a topical, making sure to really hit the critical areas, then dry them on low. I usually use TX spray but sometimes will use the West Marine product.
Or just get some of these ingredients and send them down the drain.
  • AQUA
  • SODIUM COCOATE
  • LAURYL GLUCOSIDE
  • SODIUM OLEATE
  • CAPRYLYL/CAPRYL GLUCOSIDE
  • 2-ETHYLHEXYL GLUCOSIDE
  • SODIUM CARBONATE
  • TETRASODIUM IMINODISUCCINATE
  • DISPERSION BASED ON POLYACRYLATES
  • SODIUM CUMENESULFONATE
  • ACRYLATE HOMOPOLYMER
 

Analisa

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Whichever way is listed on your care labels. There's a ton of legal regulations and laboratory testing that goes into what's written on the care label. Brands have to have "reasonable basis" for higher maintenance care instructions. I.e. If the label says dry clean only, you have to supply independent, 3rd party testing to prove it doesn't hold up in the wash. So therefore, when Arc'teryx tells me to machine dry their pieces and Flylow tells me to hang dry theirs, I trust their judgment.

The care labeling regulations don't allow for detergent recommendations / requirements. There's a lot of variety on the store shelves across enzymes, chemicals, oxidizers, scents, softeners, etc. Using the "free & clear" or "free & gentle" formulas ensures that you're not adding a softener or oxidizer that compromises the membrane. Woolite's also really gentle and the "delicates" version is unscented. Vinegar, baking soda, and enzymatic pet cleaner are all DWR & membrane-compatible for "washing projects," like when my partner got diesel all over an OR Ascendant midlayer.

So what's the deal with tech wash? Likely marketing. Nikwax wrote a full 650-word blog post about why you were ruining you membranes with regular detergent, but they really only pointed out two differences: 1) Nikwax is soap, which is made from organic compounds. Detergents are synthetic. 2) Detergents may leave behind a hydrophilic reside that would slightly work against the DWR and membrane. However, the only people talking about a hydrophilic residue from laundry detergent anywhere on the internet is Nikwax themselves or a Nikwax distributor. And even if you're into the natural, environmentally friendly aspects of Nikwax, you could still get the same combo of gentle, unscented, plant based cleaner with something like Tide PurClean for 1/5th of the cost per ounce.
 

Rich_Ease_3051

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As far as washers, I think front loader is going to be superior to top loader; And even then, if you are to do 5 or 6 garments to get a Full Large load that will work better than doing a small load with only 1 or 2 items.
So obviously, this means you need to go out and get 3 full ski outfits rather than just the 1 jacket and 1 pair of pants.

I have this problem with my washing machine where fewer pieces get really soaked and don't tumble about.

The solution is to decrease water pressure to about 1/4-1/5 pressure so there's less water in the machine which makes possible for 1 or 2 items to tumble.

Another solution is to keep the pressure to the max but toss in a beach towel with the ski jacket and pants. Works if you only have 1 set of jacket and pants to wash.
 
Last edited:

jt10000

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Following.

I don't know much about washing ski clothes and preserving DWR, but did work in a commercial laundry and believe that the every excess moment in a washing machine or dryer is slowly destroying clothes by rubbing. But also that dirt messes up performance. So it's a balance - you've got to wash, but not too much. I'm not sure what that really means in terms of frequency. But certainly if the clothes look dirty, they should be washed.

I also think fabric softeners (and maybe also fragrance) do not help and might even hurt the performance of fabrics. So I've been using Nellie's Laundry Soda, which is really simple, for washing sports stuff.
 

Tony S

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Off topic for outerwear, but I have learned that enzyme based products for washing your synthetic base layers seem to destroy wool. "Defunkify" is definitely an offender. (Also is much less effective at its assigned job than "Sport Suds.") This is all first hand, but anecdotal.
 

silverback

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From Colorado Freeride Systems


Jackets

We recommend never washing your laminate jacket. Yes, that's right. Although, our fabric manufacturers do not supply this information to us, we have found that the saturating of any premium fragile high grade water proof breathable (wpb) membrane with water and detergent, will destruct its performance qualities and most likely result in a delimitation of the fabric face/ membrane and interior layers. That may occur with one wash or take several to achieve. It depends on type of detergent, type of machine and wash cycles. Saturation will occur either due to natural deterioration of DWR and or through needle holes in jacket construction. Regular outdoor use does not lead to delamination unless DWR has been worn away and or use of rubbing from things such as back pack shoulder straps, waist and chest belts occurs.

Furthermore retreating DWR repellent with products such as Nikwax, and other similar do not produce OEM level results.

If you absolutely must wash. follow the care guidelines found on Tek Wash bottles. However, we have seen very negative results from washing fragile wpb membranes.
 

Tony S

I have a confusion to make ...
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From Colorado Freeride Systems


Jackets

We recommend never washing your laminate jacket. Yes, that's right. Although, our fabric manufacturers do not supply this information to us, we have found that the saturating of any premium fragile high grade water proof breathable (wpb) membrane with water and detergent, will destruct its performance qualities and most likely result in a delimitation of the fabric face/ membrane and interior layers. That may occur with one wash or take several to achieve. It depends on type of detergent, type of machine and wash cycles. Saturation will occur either due to natural deterioration of DWR and or through needle holes in jacket construction. Regular outdoor use does not lead to delamination unless DWR has been worn away and or use of rubbing from things such as back pack shoulder straps, waist and chest belts occurs.

Furthermore retreating DWR repellent with products such as Nikwax, and other similar do not produce OEM level results.

If you absolutely must wash. follow the care guidelines found on Tek Wash bottles. However, we have seen very negative results from washing fragile wpb membranes.
Do you suppose they are saying, "don't really use it", or "it still works fine no matter how filthy it gets"? Seems like it would have to be one of those two.
 

Ken_R

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A lot also depends on your washer too; if you want to get into details
I've found I have to semi-handwash and use a washtub quish the item with some of the detergent and handwork some of the especially stained/sweaty parts; otherwise the machine cycle does not get great results (top loader though, "bulky" cycle); and waterproof items tend to just float around.

As far as washers, I think front loader is going to be superior to top loader; And even then, if you are to do 5 or 6 garments to get a Full Large load that will work better than doing a small load with only 1 or 2 items.
So obviously, this means you need to go out and get 3 full ski outfits rather than just the 1 jacket and 1 pair of pants.

Yeah, I also use a top washer and use the "soak" option so that the garments sit inside the water soaking for a few minutes during the wash. Seems to help a lot in getting the garments cleaner.
 

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