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Detuning tip/tail on GS cheaters / sport carvers?

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Could well be it, I'm not so attentive to that. Will attack the base-side burr at home, then carry a gummi in my pocket, to be able to escalate. Just the threat of that may make the skis behave.
 

Brian Finch

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Could well be it, I'm not so attentive to that. Will attack the base-side burr at home, then carry a gummi in my pocket, to be able to escalate. Just the threat of that may make the skis behave.

Hmm….

Before you get all crazy w the gummie- what ski / skill level / length ?

I have a unlimited supply of 158cm SLs from the wife. I detune the heck out of the shovels & they stay in line.
 

Atomicman

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Could well be it, I'm not so attentive to that. Will attack the base-side burr at home, then carry a gummi in my pocket, to be able to escalate. Just the threat of that may make the skis behave.
Use a hardstone. Ski side edge straight up in vise Stone flat against the base edge with about 1/3 the stone above the side edge. Make a couple passes this way. gummi is too soft and will hang over the edge point and dull your skis. To use the gumm run it with absolutley no pressure at a 45 degree angle to the edge point ....NO PRESSURE!
 
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ScottB

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Hanging burr is definitely possible. I have this happen often to my carving skis on very hard snow. Especially if I tune to a 4 deg side angle. I weigh 250 lbs and I am at the limit of the grip of the ski and it gives out and then regrabs. Just the laws of physics. Usually, I get going fast, find a hard smooth slope surface and throw them sideways for a decent distance. I do it both left and right. Its the "gummy stone" dulling, only done while on skis and moving. Sometimes I gummy them, as Phil says, they are just too sharp. This slightly lowers overall grip, but a hooky slarve is annoying. I have also adjusted my speed and or turn radius to cure it when I don't want to dull the skis due to really icy conditions. Depends on how bad its doing it and how often. The really bad offenders are most likely due to hanging burr or inconsistent base bevel angle. A grind and bevel reset will usually cure that.

So a quick gummy dulling will probably be your best bet to get rid of it. I wouldn't go as far as "detune" per what I think of as detune. Aman's suggestion is probably the place to start, then if not gone, gummy dulling on what ever end is doing it, and lastly grind and re-bevel if still there.

I find certain surfaces with certain speeds bring it out more than others, and sometimes I just live with it go faster or slower on those surfaces. Its not always something really bad like your technique or the ski tune.
 

Atomicman

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Hanging burr is definitely possible. I have this happen often to my carving skis on very hard snow. Especially if I tune to a 4 deg side angle. I weigh 250 lbs and I am at the limit of the grip of the ski and it gives out and then regrabs. Just the laws of physics. Usually, I get going fast, find a hard smooth slope surface and throw them sideways for a decent distance. I do it both left and right. Its the "gummy stone" dulling, only done while on skis and moving. Sometimes I gummy them, as Phil says, they are just too sharp. This slightly lowers overall grip, but a hooky slarve is annoying. I have also adjusted my speed and or turn radius to cure it when I don't want to dull the skis due to really icy conditions. Depends on how bad its doing it and how often. The really bad offenders are most likely due to hanging burr or inconsistent base bevel angle. A grind and bevel reset will usually cure that.

So a quick gummy dulling will probably be your best bet to get rid of it. I wouldn't go as far as "detune" per what I think of as detune. Aman's suggestion is probably the place to start, then if not gone, gummy dulling on what ever end is doing it, and lastly grind and re-bevel if still there.

I find certain surfaces with certain speeds bring it out more than others, and sometimes I just live with it go faster or slower on those surfaces. Its not always something really bad like your technique or the ski tune.
A hanging burr is from sharpening the side edges with a file or diamond stone. A gummi really is not the way to cure this. You need a flat hardstone flat against the base edge to knock it down. 4 degree side edge has nothing to do with a hanging burr. You will get a hanging burr with sharpening to any degree side edge. Doing a 4 is no worse than sharpening to a 1. A hanging burr is created anytime you sharpen the side edge with a diamond stone or a file. Razor Tune does not cause a hanging burr because of the rotating action of the grinding wheel. If you have a clean burr free ski it should ski perfectly regardless of the snow.

The other possibility, if it is in the tip or tail area, is that due to some concavity in the base in these areas, the "glide" of the base beel tool sits down in the low spot of the concavity which causes the base edge to be under beveled when setting the base bevel in those areas.
 

ScottB

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A hanging burr is from sharpening the side edges with a file or diamond stone. A gummi really is not the way to cure this. You need a flat hardstone flat against the base edge to knock it down. 4 degree side edge has nothing to do with a hanging burr. You will get a hanging burr with sharpening to any degree side edge. Doing a 4 is no worse than sharpening to a 1. A hanging burr is created anytime you sharpen the side edge with a diamond stone or a file. Razor Tune does not cause a hanging burr because of the rotating action of the grinding wheel. If you have a clean burr free ski it should ski perfectly regardless of the snow.

The other possibility, if it is in the tip or tail area, is that due to some concavity in the base in these areas, the "glide" of the base beel tool sits down in the low spot of the concavity which causes the base edge to be under beveled when setting the base bevel in those areas.
Aman, I didn't write the first sentence well and you misread it. Let me try again.

Hanging burr is definitely possible and could be one cause, follow Aman's post. There are other reasons this could be happening and I have this happen often to my carving skis on very hard snow......

As you point out, if the base edge bevel varies then it can happen. Been there too.

Lastly, you can just over pressure the edge grip and if its real sharp, it will slip and then re-grab. Nothing wrong with the ski or its tune, just pushing the grip past its letting go point and as you slow down due to slipping, it hooks back up again. Snow surface is a big factor along with very sharp edges. Been there too.

My 2 Cents
 

cantunamunch

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Lastly, you can just over pressure the edge grip and if its real sharp, it will slip and then re-grab. Nothing wrong with the ski or its tune, just pushing the grip past its letting go point and as you slow down due to slipping, it hooks back up again. Snow surface is a big factor along with very sharp edges. Been there too.

Particularly with skis that have stiff shovel sections.
 

Atomicman

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Aman, I didn't write the first sentence well and you misread it. Let me try again.



As you point out, if the base edge bevel varies then it can happen. Been there too.

Lastly, you can just over pressure the edge grip and if its real sharp, it will slip and then re-grab. Nothing wrong with the ski or its tune, just pushing the grip past its letting go point and as you slow down due to slipping, it hooks back up again. Snow surface is a big factor along with very sharp edges. Been there too.

My 2 Cents
Isn't that what chatter is?
 
Thread Starter
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Soooo...... as I went to take a diamond stone to the base edge, I noticed, I hadn't actually set the base bevel...... not yet on these skis..... :doh:

Might need fewer skis, less chance for confusion. Also should probably start doing sudokus.

Anyway thanks for the discussion
 

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