Fat Bikes Fat Biking

[Tom K.]

I know nothing of this, and am considering dipping a toe in the waters.

Hoping for some rational, mature input from the pugski brain trust!

 

[Pierre]

What are you going to use it for? Snow? Trail? Downhill? Bike Path? Sand? Mud?
New? Used? Long distance? Short Runs? Bikepacking?

There are many good bikes out there but they vary on equipment and geometry.

 

[martyg]

I'd ask locally. You really need trails that have some prep done. We have about 300 miles of groomed snowmobile trails here, and they are the bomb for fat biking - sublime days in winter high alpine environments on a bike!

Don't think that you can take off and ride on any random, winter trail. That 18" path that people walk / snowshoe / XC shuffle (they call it skiing) on? Totally miserable. Inconsistent. Come out of the 18" track, you hit deep, unconsolidated snow, and fall over.

 

[Tom K.]

Yup, I need to ask locally. Almost done emptying boxes and setting up both an office and a workshop, then time for fat bike inquiries!

I'd use it for two hour max winter rides. Preferably on groomed trails -- whether snowmobile or fat bike specific -- but perhaps some "ridden in" stuff too. Gotta find out what is on offer here.

In any event, zero interest in using it for anything other than snow. As far as new or used goes, I just moved my wife back to her family stomping grounds. I'm golden for awhile, so no real budget other than common sense!

 

[Pierre]

Yup, I need to ask locally. Almost done emptying boxes and setting up both an office and a workshop, then time for fat bike inquiries!

I'd use it for two hour max winter rides. Preferably on groomed trails -- whether snowmobile or fat bike specific -- but perhaps some "ridden in" stuff too. Gotta find out what is on offer here.

In any event, zero interest in using it for anything other than snow. As far as new or used goes, I just moved my wife back to her family stomping grounds. I'm golden for awhile, so no real budget other than common sense!

Sounds like you don't need a tank with a slack head tube. Your choices are wide open. Look for something with 150mm/197mm spacing that can accept a 26X4.8" studded tire at least. Plan on running tubeless so you can run super low pressures. For what you want you probably don't need a suspension fork either. Most designs are for what you want to do so you can probably get into something fairly cheap. $1k to $2k. You don't need anything as elaborate as I have.

 

[martyg]

Yup, I need to ask locally. Almost done emptying boxes and setting up both an office and a workshop, then time for fat bike inquiries!

I'd use it for two hour max winter rides. Preferably on groomed trails -- whether snowmobile or fat bike specific -- but perhaps some "ridden in" stuff too. Gotta find out what is on offer here.

In any event, zero interest in using it for anything other than snow. As far as new or used goes, I just moved my wife back to her family stomping grounds. I'm golden for awhile, so no real budget other than common sense!

My guess, with COVID, any used fat bike will be snatched up asap - same with xc ski gear and snowshoes. Several brands have cut fat bikes from their lines. All industry data, for 2019 / 20, showed that the trend was over. Few brands had the foresight to look at COVID, and anticipate.

 

[firebanex]

Where and what sort of temperatures are you going to be riding in?

Majority of what I get to ride is dog mushing trails or snowmachine trails up here. Snowmachines suck, they make all sorts of ups and downs on what could be a flat trail. Here in Fairbanks Alaska, you will usually see 9:Zero:7, Fatback, Trek, and Salsa branded fat bikes. Not saying that any is better than the other, just that's what we all tend to use and work up here. I personally ride a 9:Zero:7 Tundra from a couple of years ago, fully rigid, 1x12 GX drivetrain, Dillinger 5 tires with tubes. No particular reason why I didn't go tubeless except that I've never had a flat and thus never felt the need to change it. As you might imagine, not all fatbike tires are created equal, 45NRTH Dillinger 4 or 5 is the go to tire up here in either studded or studless versions. When I upgraded to my Dillenger 5's from the Jumbo Jims that came on my bike.. oh my god it was life changing for how much better my bike performed on the trail. Check with the locals as to if studs are really needed or not, if you have icy conditions, overflows, or lots of swamp/pond crossings like I do then studded tires are worth the extra expense.

My primary advice is to keep the bike simple, reliable, and maintained. At least where I ride, a broken bike or mechanical problem can lead to serious and potential life threatening conditions quite rapidly. You will have 4"-5" tires to help soak up small bumps and vibrations and forgoing a suspension fork will save weight and complications on the trail. Definitely splurge on carbon bars and foam grips, it helps cut down the cold transfer to your hands compared to alloy bars and regular grips.

Second bit of advice. Get poagies. Winter gloves suck keeping your hands warm on a bike in the winter and are impossible to manipulate shifters and brakes with. A set of poagies plus your summer gloves or liner gloves works phenomenal. Today's ride was at -31*f and I had a set of winterweight Handup gloves inside my Dogwood Designs poagies (local company). Hands were perfect temps.

Lastly, if you plan on riding at night in the winter, invest in good lights (for that matter if you ever ride at night you should have good lights.). You do not want to have a lighting failure in a cold dark winter ride. Stuff from Lupine lighting, Light and Motion, and Outbound Lighting get used a lot up here.

 

[Pierre]

The only reason that I say tubeless for low pressures and wide studded tires setup is because the setup is cheaper than the medical deductibles from falling by a long shot. The falls are quick and unpredictable in comparison to dirt or rocks. More like peanut butter mud or pea gravel falls.

 

[Tom K.]

1. Where and what sort of temperatures are you going to be riding in?

2. Check with the locals as to if studs are really needed or not, if you have icy conditions, overflows, or lots of swamp/pond crossings like I do then studded tires are worth the extra expense.

3. My primary advice is to keep the bike simple, reliable, and maintained.

4. Second bit of advice. Get poagies.

Lastly, if you plan on riding at night in the winter, invest in good lights.

1.WF MT, so kinda cold at times, at least compared to my youthful upbringing in northern MN!

2. Will do on the studs. Would prefer to avoid, but we'll see what the local gurus say.

3. Agree with simple. Fully rigid is my plan.

4. Agree on the poagies. Already got them!

Thanks for all the input. Looking at a cheap-ish Salsa Beargrease GX, but also talking to the boys in MN about a silly light Lamere (at a kind of silly high price).

 

[Erik Timmerman]

Keep it cheap, salty roads are hell on fat bikes. (But get a decent headset and BB, those will die fast if you don't!)

 

[martyg]

1.WF MT, so kinda cold at times, at least compared to my youthful upbringing in northern MN!

2. Will do on the studs. Would prefer to avoid, but we'll see what the local gurus say.

3. Agree with simple. Fully rigid is my plan.

4. Agree on the poagies. Already got them!

Thanks for all the input. Looking at a cheap-ish Salsa Beargrease GX, but also talking to the boys in MN about a silly light Lamere (at a kind of silly high price).

I ride a Specializxed Carbon Comp Fat Boy. You see a lot of them at the fact bike carews here - but we also have a lot of Specialized team riders here. I don't play with fat bikes too often, but people are amazed at how light it is. I thought about carbon rims but with the wieght of the rubber the neyt gain would probably not provide much ROI. Seems like a lot of bike for $3K.

 

[Tom K.]

Pulled the trigger on a Salsa Beargrease NX. Stoked! Thank goodness he didn't have the X01 version in stock, since I have no self control when it comes to bikes.

Mrs. K and the pup after the maiden voyage -- and me in my snow-encrusted helmet in the reflection!

I could have never composed that photo on purpose.

 

[firebanex]

Not sure what you typically carry with you, but adding a frame bag and/or a large saddle bag is nicer than a backpack in my opinion. Extra storage space for things and layers plus it makes you look like a hardcore winter fat biker.

Grats on the bike! Swap for a GX shifter to make the shifting feel so much better.

 

[Tom K.]

Not sure what you typically carry with you, but adding a frame bag and/or a large saddle bag is nicer than a backpack in my opinion. Extra storage space for things and layers plus it makes you look like a hardcore winter fat biker.

Grats on the bike! Swap for a GX shifter to make the shifting feel so much better.

What do I normally carry with me? Heck, I've no idea. Feel free to provide some wisdom, and thanks in advance.

Your shifting comment is funny. While riding yesterday, I realized how worn out my two seasons old XX1 and XO1 drivetrains have become. The new NX stuff felt crisper.

For starters, I've got a carbon seatpost and bars to throw on, plus my favorite Wolftooth Mega Fat Paw grips. The local shop owner that I purchased from -- a definite fat bike zealot -- recommends studs, but he goes with one set spread over both tires as a compromise if you don't want to pop for two sets of wheels.

 

[Ron]

welcome to the team! Absolutely love my fat bike. I wrote an article a couple of seasons back on fat bikes and what to look for in a bike. I am an advocate of 27.5 x 4.5's. they just roil amazingly Treks Farley is one of couple (including Why Cycles Big Iron) that will accommodate this setup. I would suggest looking at the Bontrager Old Man Winter boots. they are the best out there IMHO. The issue with winter fat biking is you will be post holing into unsettled snow off the sides of trails. getting snow down your boot sucks. Get something that will prevent this.A good pair of pants is also important, I wear a bib with Bontrager Old Man Winter pants over them but pants need to be comfortable and allow warmth as needed. The Old man winter pants have a stirrup strap and a ski pant like gaitor that are excellent for keeping snow out. also, pick up some Pogies. And I still think a dropper is a good thing for snowy descents.

you dont need to take a lot with you for a 2 hour ride but remember, its winter so you might have an extra layer with you so a frame bag may be useful to store a layer for the climb. on cold days, Water storage can be an issue with freezing so you can put some hot water into a bottle for a little more time before it freezes.

Tire pressure is key, I run my 4.5's at 3-5 on snow so dont be afraid to run them low. even a 1/2 of pressure in a high volume tire will make a difference.

 

[Ron]

Mountain Bike - Why Cycles' Big Iron Fat Bike and 27.5 vs 26 Wheel Info

If you are in the market for a new fat bike, you have undoubtedly seen a few new bikes featuring 27.5 wheels. Which is better: 27.5 or 26? Hopefully, this article will help with the buying decision. I did a ton of investigation and interviews, including an interview with Why Cycles to get to the...

www.pugski.com

in case you are interested in the article.

 

[Tom K.]

@Ron, this Beargrease will only go to 27.5 x 4" but I'm OK with that. The Farley will accept the 4.5s, but, alas, there were none to be found. Next year, if I like it enough!

I'll post a few photos of today's ride in the mtb thread, but here they are anyway:

 

[firebanex]

you dont need to take a lot with you for a 2 hour ride but remember, its winter so you might have an extra layer with you so a frame bag may be useful to store a layer for the climb. on cold days, Water storage can be an issue with freezing so you can put some hot water into a bottle for a little more time before it freezes.

Tire pressure is key, I run my 4.5's at 3-5 on snow so don't be afraid to run them low. even a 1/2 of pressure in a high volume tire will make a difference.

Extra layer, tube, pump, tools, water, and snacks. I use a hydroflask to keep my water from getting frozen and it doesn't really fit into a standard bottle cage, so it goes in the frame bag. The other handy thing is the external battery pack for my lights goes in the bag too, even just putting them in the bag as compared to strapping to the frame improves the burn time of lights.

Carrying a pump is super important when there is more snow, I don't even know what psi I run at and most of us up here tend to run off feel since we may need to adjust mid ride as conditions change. When it's soft snow riding, I take my fist and push it directly into the tread and I should be able to push about halfway to the rim. Groomed snow, I tend to try to get my fist to push in maybe 1/4 of the way. When in doubt let some out!

GX verse NX shifter mostly comes from riding my NX equipped Top Fuel all summer and really getting irritated at how mushy the shifts felt and not knowing why. Very first shift on the fat bike with GX and I knew. The NX shifter felt like I could push the derailer around but the GX it just felt like it snapped into place when shifting.

 

[Ron]

When it's soft snow riding, I take my fist and push it directly into the tread and I should be able to push about halfway to the rim. Groomed snow, I tend to try to get my fist to push in maybe 1/4 of the way. When in doubt let some out!

I like that! I'll see how that correlates. the town grooms our trails (several miles of singeltrack and for Nordic/fat bike) so the snow is pretty consistent,

 

[Tom K.]

Extra layer, tube, pump, tools, water, and snacks.

I was told I could "get by" with a 27.5+ tube for flat repair. Opinions? I've got two that will never be used.

I like that! I'll see how that correlates. the town grooms our trails (several miles of singeltrack and for Nordic/fat bike) so the snow is pretty consistent,

Now THAT would be sweet!