Fixed Ropes for Spring Laps

[tomahawkins]

Has anyone set a fixed rope for quickly ascending and lapping a favorite steep spring line? I haven't seen this done, but it seems like it would be quicker and safer than without. Not just for fall protection, but also for self hauling. What rope diameter/rating considering falls aren't dynamic and slopes may be limited to ~40 deg? Aside from the normal mountaineering disclaimers, what would be things to look out for?

 

[pais alto]

Subscribed.

 

[Rod9301]

If it's 40 degrees, you don't need tires to pull yourself up. Just put both have in the snow and push against them.

 

[tomahawkins]

The setup I'm considering are two 36" pickets set in t-trenches in line and load balanced with the rope: 2 100m lengths of 8mm static cord. Climber would ascend with a self-tending friction hitch with both hands hauling on the rope -- skis and poles in tow instead of carried.

 

[James]

Will this be tried soon or next winter?

 

[tomahawkins]

Will this be tried soon or next winter?

Maybe this week.

 

[tomahawkins]

Got out today; it was a lot of fun. Basic equipment was 100m of 9mm static rope, 2 36" pickets, some 7mm cordage, a harness, carabiners, and a Petzl Tibloc 2. I also had a couple prusiks in case I needed to make an escape.

Hiking up from Mt Baker Heather Meadows, weather was great. Snowpack is still deep. Road was clear until the second switchback on Pan Face.




Shuksan looking its typical spectacular self.

My target slope. Short and steep (~40 deg) with a safe runout in case things go wrong.



The pickets placed in t-trenches.



On the rope giving it a test and peering over the edge.



Ready for first lap.



At the bottom, back on the rope.



Pausing mid climb to rest in the shade. I found using the rope hand over hand was much easier than climbing without and a lot less scary. Also, leaning back against the rope improves foothold traction. No falls today!



Back at the top. Switching to skis while roped in. The Tibloc2 worked awesome. Super smooth rope feed. Catches every time. Much better than version 1.



@Posaune, what is the name of this mountain?

More scenery.

I did 3 laps then had to go back to work. This was the last run. I gathered up the pickets, I threw the rope down, and grabbed it at the bottom. Instead of packing it, I just clipped in to one end and skied it back to the car.



All the gear back in the trunk. 100m is a lot of line, but still not enough.

 

[Paul Lutes]

Yumpin' Yimminy, you still have a delicious amount of snow!!!!

 

[James]

Nice!
So would you say it’s worth it?
Now you need a portable winch...
Though it looks like the line speed is pretty slow. Say 35 ft/min, 300ft would take 8 1/2 minutes. But it’s pretty light, 18 pounds, uses rope not wire rope.

Simpson Winch

www.capstanropewinch.com

 

[tomahawkins]

@James, yeah, I think it's worth it. I was able to do two laps more than I would have normally. It makes climbing pretty easy and relaxed as you don't have to kick as deep of footholds, the rope provides a solid foundation, and you can take breaks without fear of slipping off. But that much rope is heavy and took a lot of effort to get it to the top. And even being static, it still has a lot of spring to it when you are near the end of the it. Probably the ideal setup is to go with a few other people and set multiple pitches with separate, shorter ropes -- assuming one climber on one rope at a time, more, shorter ropes means more people climbing at a time and less boing. I was expecting to pull with the arms more than I did -- I ended up using the rope more for stability than hauling -- so I think a lighter 8mm rope would probably work great, at least on slopes less than 50 deg. I was climbing with the skis in my pack, but next time I want to try towing the skis instead for faster transitions more than anything else.

Winching is actually where this idea started. I have some experience building wakeboard winches and the like, even some with radio control, e.g. ski to the bottom, squeeze the RC throttle to get pulled back to the top, repeat. I haven't used these Simpson winches, but I do have one of their capstans I put on an early winch design. I wanted to try the RC idea with my Stihl KM 131 R brush cutter motor with some Samson Amsteel winch line -- Samson, BTW, is a local company to the PNW. But I figured folks would frown on an engine running so close to the Mt Baker Wilderness area. Are winches vehicles? That might be the loophole I need. Or maybe I can muffle it in the snow or use an electric motor instead.

Here's some photos from an earlier project: setting up an tow rope in our backyard in Clarion, PA.

 

[James]

Wow, pretty cool. Nice project.

I think you’d be ok with a motor. Possibly you could muffle the Stihl motor some so it’s not so loud, plus that should increase its spark arresting.

...assuming one climber on one rope at a time,

Heh, below is the Lhotse Face fixed ropes climbing Everest. That’s 2012 I think. Way more than 1 on a section.
I believe they often use lightweight ropes.

 

[Primoz]

I'm sure my suggestion will sound too easy, but still Why not to just use crampons and ice axe instead of carrying 100m of rope? You can climb anything you can ski (well honestly I can actually feel more comfortable skiing super steep and airy faces then climbing them, as I was never much of a climber), and you are not limited to short sections. Not to mention crampons and ice axe (or two) weight much less then 100m rope.