Help me build up my old road frame

[Wendy]

I want to build my early 90’s Serotta Colorado frame (55 cm) back up. Steel, lugged frame.
This is what I’m thinking:

Flat bars (road bars simply aren’t as comfy for me anymore)
Maybe a single chainring in front for simplicity
Durable wheels

Other than that, no clue. Its been a long time since I’ve built a bike. Presently I have no road bike...only a mountain bike and a fat bike (which has been getting a lot of use). I’m no longer doing long (over 25 mi) rides on the road....don’t trust cars anymore. But it would be fun for general fitness and possibly running errands.

This frame carries some great memories...I rode it over the continental divide in CO over 25 times. It caught Davis Phinney’s attention in Boulder, and I subsequently got to ride with him up Trail Ridge Road in the late 90’s. It’s been stored in a dry place and oiled inside the tubes to prevent rust. The purple headset? It came from Cane Creek and concerning the color...well, it was the early 90’s.... I’m going to probably keep it for nostalgia’s sake.

 

[scott43]

Your biggest challenge if you're wanting more modern parts is bb shell size and thread and dropout spacing. Otherwise good to go.

 

[jmeb]

Sexy bike!

I basically only ride builds like this. I'd throw the biggest tires on it I could and ride it all the time. Hell, I might even put a Wald basket front because they are the most useful carrying arrangement.

For a cockpit, I'd look for some upright bars that take a variety of hand positions -- some more upright some more forward. Two bars I have and ride a lot (several thousand miles each) are the Jones Loop bar and the Nitto Albatross.

For drivetrain, I think 1x makes a lot of sense for your described use case. I'm not super up to date on what groupsets would work on a 130mm spaced rear, but I know there are a few. (I've got some 2x10 GX kit on my 130rear with the same BB shell). SRAM seems to have the market for mid-range groups covered. You don't *need* 1x12...1x9 or 1x10 is probably simpler and cheaper. And frankly -- I'd want silver components on this bike and that's probably easier by hacking together a 1x9 or 10 solution.

 

[Philpug]

Paging @Bill Talbot
To the Pugski courtesy phone

 

[Bill Talbot]

Wendy, what great frame for a project like this!
First thing is to define the scope of what you will be doing with the bike. Are you still in CO? If so will you be heading up all the wonderful canyon roads to Peak to Peak Hwy. Or doing loop down in the flats with some rollers. I always decide on what I need for gears FIRST. Then you see what option you like to get the low gear you need. But I'm thinking a double up front. Maybe a super compact road (44-28). I would also stay with older kit to go with the build. Lots of great 90's stuff out there very reasonably priced. Maybe 700 x 28 wheelset.
Give us more info please!

 

[markojp]

Honestly, it's in such good shape, it'd be cool to do a more modern 'restorative' build. Even with flat bars, I'd still do a standard (but wider 'modern' ) gearing set up.

 

[Wendy]

Sexy bike!

I basically only ride builds like this. I'd throw the biggest tires on it I could and ride it all the time. Hell, I might even put a Wald basket front because they are the most useful carrying arrangement.

For a cockpit, I'd look for some upright bars that take a variety of hand positions -- some more upright some more forward. Two bars I have and ride a lot (several thousand miles each) are the Jones Loop bar and the Nitto Albatross.

For drivetrain, I think 1x makes a lot of sense for your described use case. I'm not super up to date on what groupsets would work on a 130mm spaced rear, but I know there are a few. (I've got some 2x10 GX kit on my 130rear with the same BB shell). SRAM seems to have the market for mid-range groups covered. You don't *need* 1x12...1x9 or 1x10 is probably simpler and cheaper. And frankly -- I'd want silver components on this bike and that's probably easier by hacking together a 1x9 or 10 solution.

The Jones Loop bar looks perfect for what I’d need. Having multiple hand positions while not giving up an upright position is awesome.

I thought SRAM would offer the options for my needs...good to know I wasn’t off base with that. No, I don’t need 1x12. I considered a single speed (not fixed) gear; that would certainly increase the simplicity but reduce the versatility concerning terrain (and my creaky knees).

A basket is a must. I use a wicker basket on my fat bike for errands!

 

[Wendy]

Wendy, what great frame for a project like this!
First thing is to define the scope of what you will be doing with the bike. Are you still in CO? If so will you be heading up all the wonderful canyon roads to Peak to Peak Hwy. Or doing loop down in the flats with some rollers. I always decide on what I need for gears FIRST. Then you see what option you like to get the low gear you need. But I'm thinking a double up front. Maybe a super compact road (44-28). I would also stay with older kit to go with the build. Lots of great 90's stuff out there very reasonably priced. Maybe 700 x 28 wheelset.
Give us more info please!

Unfortunately, not in CO but PA. Aw, geez, I miss riding the Peak to Peak. And there was a cool dirt road climb up from Jamestown not far from Boulder. Memories! Still, our roads tend to have short steep climbs that can feel much steeper than the long mountain passes I rode in CO. I just don’t know how far I’d venture out, so not sure about single vs double up front. I imagine more rolling terrain would be realistic. I plan on keeping this forever, which means that it’ll get ridden back West in a few years when my husband retires, but still, probably mostly rolling terrain to bike paths. My newer titanium frame was kitted with a compact road gears which worked great for me, but then again, I was ridin all over creation on that bike, too.

I‘ve thought about an older kit, not sure what direction I want to go there. I appreciate this frame and its vintage, and understand it would be cool to preserve that entire look, but I also want to really enjoy riding it again.

 

[jmeb]

Maybe a super compact road (44-28). I would also stay with older kit to go with the build. Lots of great 90's stuff out there very reasonably priced. Maybe 700 x 28 wheelset.

Agree with all of this.

I have a 2x10 drivetrain with a mtb crank up front on my do-everything bike.

 

[jmeb]

A couple of my road-ish-bikes built with upright bars for inspiration.

 

[KevinF]

I think your biggest issue is going to be dropout spacing; "modern" 9/10/11 gear clusters require a 130mm dropout. MTB hubs are typically 135mm.

Early 90's frames were probably in the 126mm range? The good news is that it's a steel frame so the frame can be spread to make anything work.

You can certainly find "older" style bottom brackets.

 

[jmeb]

By early 90s I would think it'd be 130. If not, a quick cold set or just regular pulling is open. Even my 1983 Trek posted above has a 130 hub thrown in there and it isn't a pain to put in and out (w/o a cold set).

 

[KevinF]

View attachment 99122

Wow, that looks sweet. Do you have MTB-style shifters mounted?

 

[jmeb]

Wow, that looks sweet. Do you have MTB-style shifters mounted?

Yep. It's a mtb drivetrain basically. It's built for travelling (hence the S&S couplers), light touring. I also commute on it sometimes and do bigger road/gravel rides on it. Cockpit example and on-tour examples below (sorry for thread hijack @Wendy -- just love upright-ish bikes).

 

[Philpug]

FWIW, Weight weenies need not apply. This will never be light by todays standards LOL.

 

[cantunamunch]

. And frankly -- I'd want silver components on this bike and that's probably easier by hacking together a 1x9 or 10 solution.

I would even go one step further and use flashy cable housing like Jagwire's Road Elite Link

404 | Jagwire

jagwire.com

or maybe even Vertebrae, depending on the wheelset trim.


Question to @Wendy: How stable was it on downhills back in CO? Were you ever using your knee against the top tube?

 

[KevinF]

FWIW, Weight weenies need not apply. This will never be light by todays standards LOL.

Bike weight is insignificant unless you are absolutely hauling up a mountain pass. Most people can lose far more off their body than they can lose off the bike.

 

[graham418]

you may want to check out Rivendell Bikes. Lots of period appropriate componentry. Funky Bike builder. for handlebars , you may like to take a look at the Nitto Moustache bar.
Thats a beautiful frame by the way.

Rivendell Bicycle Works - Lugged Steel and Custom Bikes

We make the world's finest steel bicycles. We also sell practical bike parts and normal looking bicycle clothes.

www.rivbike.com

 

[cantunamunch]

And, of course, Velo - Orange just down Rte50 here.

Velo Orange - The Finest Bicycle Products

Purveyor of timeless frames, components, and accessories for touring, commuting, and randonneuring.

velo-orange.com

@Wendy - if you get excited by a funky bar shape, do everything you possibly can to try before you buy, whether it's a Moustache, Albatross, Loop or North Road/priest bar. These things are very polarising and individual-dependent. Especially when it comes to Moustache bars - flattened road - gravel bars.

 

[Tony Storaro]

A couple of my road-ish-bikes built with upright bars for inspiration.

Man, the white Surly is an eye-candy! Well done!