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How do you know how tight your boots should be?

NoScoped

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Got fitted for boots a few seasons ago. They're still painfully tight at times (granted this was the 1st day of the season for me). Any advice for figuring out what is an appropriate amount of "tightness"? I.e., am I cranking my boots down too much or do I need to get them punched out? If I keep them looser...how do I know if it's too loose?
 

DanoT

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I have a snug fit, so I don't buckle the buckles all that tight. I guess I'm not much help.:huh:
 

KingGrump

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Got fitted for boots a few seasons ago. They're still painfully tight at times (granted this was the 1st day of the season for me). Any advice for figuring out what is an appropriate amount of "tightness"? I.e., am I cranking my boots down too much or do I need to get them punched out? If I keep them looser...how do I know if it's too loose?

Few questions.
Do you have a foot bed. If yes, drop in or custom?
Where is the pain.
Pain at times - what are the times.
Describe the pain. Whole side of foot? A specific point? Others?
 

DanoT

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I think it would be useful to have a list of tasks that fail with loose boots.
In powder I like to sink in and crank lots of turns vs go fast on top of the snow. So, a big up motion in deep snow can result in some slight heel lift, but no big deal, imo, as I am not looking for or expecting precision turns in powder.
 

Ken_R

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Got fitted for boots a few seasons ago. They're still painfully tight at times (granted this was the 1st day of the season for me). Any advice for figuring out what is an appropriate amount of "tightness"? I.e., am I cranking my boots down too much or do I need to get them punched out? If I keep them looser...how do I know if it's too loose?

If you need to crank down the buckles a lot then boots are just too big. The buckles should be for microadjusting fit and getting a decent seal so water doesnt get in the shell.
 

DanoT

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Few questions.
Do you have a foot bed. If yes, drop in or custom?
When i worked at a ski shop we would have product knowledge sessions with the Ski Reps. Every single Rep said basically the same thing: "Take the stock footbed that comes with the ski boot and throw it away." Its soul function (pun intended) is to allow the customer to try on a ski boot in the shop without having to bring their own custom footbed with them (some footbeds outfitted with aftermarket heaters are too fidelly to uninstall for a boot fitting).

Even an aftermarket semi mold-able footbed is superior to stock.
 

KingGrump

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When i worked at a ski shop we would have product knowledge sessions with the Ski Reps. Every single Rep said basically the same thing: "Take the stock footbed that comes with the ski boot and throw it away." Its soul function (pun intended) is to allow the customer to try on a ski boot in the shop without having to bring their own custom footbed with them (some footbeds outfitted with aftermarket heaters are too fidelly to uninstall for a boot fitting).

Even an aftermarket semi mold-able footbed is superior to stock.

Wow, I never knew that. Learn something new every day.
So that piece of felt/plastic is a foot bed. Who would have thunk. I always thought that was the tracing template used to trim the drop in or custom foot bed. :ogbiggrin:
 
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NoScoped

NoScoped

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Few questions.
Do you have a foot bed. If yes, drop in or custom?
Where is the pain.
Pain at times - what are the times.
Describe the pain. Whole side of foot? A specific point? Others?

Notes I took from today:

- Rubbing sensation on inner heel (behind inside ankle); both left and right boot
- Lots of pressure when tightented down on top of left food; right food not as bad but still aches
- Bottom of left foot really sore immediately following run (front of arch, behind toes); right foot aches but not unbearable
- Toes okay (although big left toe is sore tonight), shins okay

Custom footbed. My bootfitter was StartHaus in Truckee (recommended from here).

The big issue is pain on my instep. Left boot is the worst but both are very noticeable if clamped down (see below, though).

If you need to crank down the buckles a lot then boots are just too big. The buckles should be for microadjusting fit and getting a decent seal so water doesnt get in the shell.

Boots dont have to be buckled tight to preform well if they fit right.

This makes me feel better. Wondering if I'm just cranking my boots down too hard. Towards the end of the day I just buckled my top buckle. Left my bottom three (towards my toes) unbuckled. Felt fine then.

I think my biggest issue is being able to tell if my performance is "good enough" without buckling down my boots. Think that's what this thread is about. At least for me. How do I know if my boots are performing well enough for how tight they are? Realize that's an experience thing. Intermediate skiier here so that's tough to tell for me. Averaging 10+ days/season—which is a lot for me.
 
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KingGrump

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This makes me feel better. Wondering if I'm just cranking my boots down too hard. Towards the end of the day I just buckled my top buckle. Left my bottom three (towards my toes) unbuckled. Felt fine then.

I think my biggest issue is being able to tell if my performance is "good enough" without buckling down my boots. Think that's what this thread is about. At least for me. How do I know if my boots are performing well enough for how tight they are? Realize that's an experience thing. Intermediate skiier here so that's tough to tell for me. Averaging 10+ days/season—which is a lot for me.

I think you answered your own question.

If your boots and foot bed are from Start Haus, most likely they fit fine.
With 10+ days per season, the issue are probably technique related. Your feet/boots/skis are not moving in sync. Your feet are zigging while your ski/boot are zagging.
If your boots fit and if they are stiff enough, you should be able ski with them unbuckled. This will promote foot sensitivity and smoothness in your skiing.

You can find your base line by going to a flat green run and try the following.
Buckle your boots at the minimum setting. Minimum setting is when the buckles only pulls on the shell on the last third of the closing swing arc.
Make some slow turns by rolling your ankles. Focus on the foot/foot bed interface. Be patience. the skis will turn by themselves. Your feet will follow along. Your feet should not move inside your boots. Play with varying fore and aft pressure by closing your ankle. You can play with turn shape by varying pressure under different part of the feet and by stroking the feet through an arc.
The trick is to be patience and not move your feet faster than your ski/boot will respond.

This is the foundation for soft smooth skiing. Should be effortless.

Have fun and stay safe.
 

Andy Mink

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The front buckles over your foot should not be "clamped". They should be barely snug to the point of just being tight enough to stay closed. More than that and they'll start to squish your foot making it flatten out. It also puts pressure on nerves and blood supply resulting in cold feet, numb toes, and general misery.
 

Heeler

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^^^x2
Quite often my front buckles will be open/unbuckled at the end of a run. Sometimes I re-buckle them and sometimes I don't. If I don't do it before I get on the chair I usually forget by the time I'm back to the top. :rolleyes:
 

DanoT

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I think how tight each buckle needs to be set is personal. There is no reason to think everyone's feet fit inside their boots the same way.
This is most certainly true @LiquidFeet, as not everyone has liquid feet. :ogbiggrin:
 

markojp

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I think how tight each buckle needs to be set is personal. There is no reason to think everyone's feet fit inside their boots the same way.

Though with the general skiing public, show me someone with a cranked instep buckle, we can bet good money on a boot with either too much volume, or possibly a very old, packed out liner. That bet will pay off 9.9 out of 10 times.
 

LiquidFeet

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Though with the general skiing public, show me someone with a cranked instep buckle, we can bet good money on a boot with either too much volume, or possibly a very old, packed out liner. That bet will pay off 9.9 out of 10 times.
Well, yes. For the cranked general skiing public. Show me the general skiing public and I'll bet the boots are too long by at least one size, without checking the buckles.
 
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L&AirC

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Early season sucks for wearing boots. My opinion is that if it doesn’t, then it’s time for new boots. My general rule for what is too tight if too lose is that I can wear my boots all day “pain” free, but I look forward to taking them off.

There is also a process to it. I usually start the day without any buckles closed but all on the correct ladder. I use a booster strap so I’ll have that just snug. Once I get going and am warmed up, I’ll start closing buckles, but usually just while skiing and at the bottom of the run will unbuckle them. I often forget to open the buckles after the run, but will be reminded (by discomfort) in the lift line r on the lift. If not reminded, I don't need to do that anymore.

Conversely, I’ll forget to close the buckles at the start of a run, but they are snug and stiff enough for it not to be a big concern as long as the booster strap is on.

There are a lot of variables at play here, time of day, outside temp, boot temp, especially when you put them on, how hard you’re skiing, terrain you’re skiing, how long standing in lines, and anything else that has an effect on the boot and/or your foot and ankle.

When you start buckling them, start at the top and work your way down. Also, close (flex) your ankle before closing any buckles. This makes sure your heel is at the back of your boot.

This all assumes your boots were fitted correctly. I view mine as perfect (thanks to GMOL) but since Bill’s shop isn’t the same temp as the slope, I usually have to make an adjustment here or there. Keep in mind, according to my wife, I can be like the “Princess and the Pea”, and will be distracted a good chunk of the day by trying to get each boot to feel and flex the same, even though booth feet aren‘t identical in shape and size or dorsiflexion.

Have fun,
Ken
 

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