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How do you like your boots buckled?

Tony Storaro

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Bottom 2 buckles, barely on to keep the snow out and prevent the buckles from flopping around and catching on something. Upper 2 buckles and strap: snug and moderately tight as otherwise I am prone to shin bang.

How? I mean how do you get shin bang from too tight strap and upper buckle?
 

dan ross

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Funny thing is that most right-handed people put on their left shoe/boot first, while vastly superior left-handed people start with the right.

Citation: I read that somewhere long ago.
As a left hander ,resemble that remark . I do put my right boot on first.
 

Uncle-A

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Funny thing is that most right-handed people put on their left shoe/boot first, while vastly superior left-handed people start with the right.

Citation: I read that somewhere long ago.
This is interesting even though I am predominantly right handed although I do many things left handed. I do put on my left boot first but only because my left foot is larger than the right foot and more difficult to put on. I try to get the difficult boot out of the way first, and the same when removing my boots. I don't know how others do it but that is how I put them on and remove them, the left first.
 

Tony Storaro

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Right-handed-> right boot first. In and out. Right leg/foot stronger so faster in and then easier to keep balance on while putting left boot on. But I always put my boots on while standing so dunno.
 

Tom K.

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I was going to start a poll on which boot first and which hand, but I knew it would be flawed. :ogcool:

I might try reversing my usual order today, and see whether or not I can make it across the parking lot without spontaneously combusting. ;)
 

teejaywhy

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crgildart

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Right handed, usually left boot first.. I do shoes and boots like I do reading..
 

Rudi Riet

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Caveat: I ski in plug boots.

Lower buckles: fairly tight but easy enough to do up without a lot of pressure.
Upper buckles: pretty tight, especially as I have skinny ankles.
Power strap: tightness depends on the skiing being done.

And back to the "skiing with them completely unbuckled" theme: in plugs that typically means bringing the flex down to "mortal" levels. Skiing around in my Dobie RD5s with them unbuckled (but bails still engaged - key point, that) they're maybe a 120 flex. In my Atomic TI 130s, maybe a 110-115.

And these boots are unbuckled for every lift ride to give my feet a wee breather. It's better than it was back in the day when I downsized a bit too much (as is the fashion for young hotshot racer folk) but it's still nice to relieve the tight fit for the uphill ride.
 

Nobody

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I’m curious about how people buckle their boots. More specifically, how much pressure do you apply to each buckle? I like the toe buckle very loose. If fact, I don’t really use it. I like the next buckle up to be very tight. It helps me transfer foot/ankle pressure. The third buckle up is the second tightest; to keep my heel locked in. The fourth buckle and booster strap are relatively loose unless I’m skiing hard snow. I obviously realize that everyone’s feet (and boots) are different but I’m wondering if there’s a general consensus on buckle pressure preferences?
I start the day with three out of four buckles set but not closed (levers raised/open), only the top most one and the velcro strap are done, first hook for the buckle and velcro tight enough to let the buckle be tensed correctly (also the micro adj of the buckle screw is set to have the correct tension of the buckle)
After a couple of runs (max), I close all buckles. At this time of my current boots' life (Dalbello DRS 110, 26.5, wanted to mod the velcro strap but never got to do it, one thing I did , though, I started to use the laces on the liners on the dayly drivers boots too, not only on the GS ones ), all three buckles are set to the second hook with the micro adj set accordingly. The two mid ones (cuff lower and shell higher) tightier than the other, so to better hold the calf. If I ever reach the third notch...time to change boots or at least the liners (but I usually do not change liners only).

Left handed -> left boot first.
Ditto. Usually. Even if I've never paid much attention to the sequence I use until I read this thread...
Also, Left Liner, lace it up, insert in left boot, latch (as described above) buckles, proceed with right one.
Out, again, left boot, left liner, do the right ones.

Caveat : if the very first run of the day is a "challenging one" (i.e. a black run), then I might skip the routine until I have dealt with it
 

crgildart

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I'm probably the only person here who sees ZERO value or enhancement in power straps. I've also tried running the Booster brand WC model. They're in a box at the bottom of my closet now. If the straps weren't also useful to hold the boots together when carrying them around I'd cut them off :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

Yep I just said that and am not kidding. Goes along with the top buckles barely snapped down behavior.
 

fundad77

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I always did what Phil said "Lower buckles, finger tight, cuff buckles, palm tight" and taught using that advice but now I learned something that works even better. Top buckles I tighten just enough to get no wiggle when you try to wiggle the buckles. The bottom two buckles I tighten just enough to allow a little wiggle. My students seem to understand this better and helps to eliminate hand-strength effects in the process. Full disclosure I am also using a booster strap put inside the overlapping layer of the shell with a Atomic Hawx Ultra 130 boot.
 

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