Cheers! Yes, I'm all about exploring places that are under the radar. I'd like to do more in the 'Stans after the Uzbekistan trip went so well. There's a lot of potential in that part of the world.
Who's your Aussie friend from Gulmarg? I've done 10 winters in Gulmarg (not full seasons), so I know most of the Aussies there. I was there in 2019 when the Indian and Pakistani air forces went at it and it was definitely a tense time. Kashmir was effectively shut off as there are no land routes out in the winter time and the airspace was closed down to commercial traffic, so we were stuck.
We kept skiing as there was nothing else to do, watching the planes patrolling up and down the Line of Control. Thankfully it was all over in a couple of days and the situation improved quickly, but it was pretty stressful for a few days..... not sure if you read my Gulmarg TR from 2019? Here it is if you haven't -
https://www.skitalk.com/threads/gulmarg-2019-trip-report-himalayas.14249/.