In Part 1 of this series, my friend David Chaus took a stab at identifying and characterizing many of the most prominent independent ski areas in Western North America. I am going to try to do the same for Eastern North America, where there is traditionally a higher density of small, self-reliant mom-and-pop ski areas. Identifying Eastern indies is tougher than it sounds because the line between autonomy and cooperation is quite thin with all the amazing multiresort pass products and reciprocity agreements that have emerged in the last decade or two.
The spectacular rise of multiresort passes like Epic, Ikon, MCP (Mountain Collective Pass), and Peak makes us wonder, “Who the heck is still independent?” Some of these groupings, such as Epic/Vail Resorts, are united by common ownership; others are merely cooperating on passes to some degree. Ikon is a hybrid of owned and cooperating resorts. The Power Pass is a baby version of the aforementioned big guys with unlimited skiing at five smaller Southwestern ski areas and reciprocity at a bunch more. But consider Sugarbush, an altogether different beast. It is a truly fine independently owned (principal owner Win Smith) and operated Vermont ski area. However, for the purposes of this discussion, I'll categorize it in the multiresort pass group because in the scramble to compete, it participates in not one, but two such offerings, Ikon and MCP.
The further you dig into the independence thing, the more there is to grapple with (or is that graupel with?). There are a number of under-the-radar unions of ski areas that casual industry observers may not know about. In the East this would include ski area teamings such as Greek Peak-Toggenburg, Jiminy Peak-Cranmore-Bromley, the NY State-owned trio of Belleayre, Gore, and Whiteface, and Snow Time Inc. (Liberty, Whitetail, Roundtop in Pennsylvania). Oops, scratch the Snow Time group, because it was just bought by Peak Resorts. Do you consider these to be groups or independents? Are their season passes fully reciprocal? I’m only scratching the surface of various forms of ski resort linkage, and then there are organizations such as the Mountain Rider’s Alliance (MRA). MRA is an advisory group without pass reciprocity that seeks to unite small, independent ski areas to tackle sustainability, environmental, and operational issues.
Before I begin a review of some of the most notable Eastern indies, I probably should list my understanding of Eastern ski areas that are not independents, at least in the sense that they participate in one or more of the most popular national/international multiresort pass products.
These products all offer significant forms of full or partial season pass reciprocity. The MCP offers only two or three free reciprocal days at member areas, but unlimited half-price days.
With that gelatinous definition of the term “independent” and excluding the preceding list of major multiresort pass participants, here is my state-by-state (or province) breakdown of some of the more prominent and visit-worthy independent ski areas in Eastern North America. The ski areas I have chosen to discuss have qualities worthy of a visit from afar such as considerable size, unique character, or favorable reputations. I have visited and photographed a good percentage of them. I am going to break my rule and mention a few resorts participating in the Freedom Pass, but there are many more smaller indies in the East that I won't address. Almost all indies share the qualities of affordability, modest crowds, and family-friendliness.
Vermont
The state of Vermont has a terrific array of independent ski areas. Mad River Glen's 2,037-ft vertical drop, 45 trails, and 800 acres of boundary-to-boundary off-piste includes some of the greatest tree skiing in the US. Gnarly MRG, founded in 1948, is one of the cathedrals of our sport. Ride the single chair, embrace the natural snow surfaces, and be sure to check out a base lodge that is retro to the max. Smugglers' Notch (2,610 ft vertical, 78 trails) is renowned as a great family hill with an extensive and affordable village of condos at its base. But it also has good terrain variety including some very challenging runs and tree skiing off the ancient Madonna 1 double chair. I skied there back around 1990 and vividly remember skiing over a frozen waterfall/cascade. Geographically, Smuggs is very close to Stowe. You have to wonder if Vail Resorts has an interest in acquiring it and linking it with ski lifts to Stowe? I have not skied Middlebury Snow Bowl (1,000 ft vertical, 17 trails, six glades), but I understand it can be a fine escape from more crowded mountains and has enough steeps and glades to entertain rambunctious students from nearby Middlebury College.
There is something about the state of New Hampshire that really appeals to me. It's less developed than Vermont and the peaks are higher, crowned by the +6,000-ft Mt. Washington Massif. The views from the summit of Waterville Valley (2,020 ft vertical, 60 trails, five glades) convey this with a seemingly endless vista of pine forests. The ski area has good variety and offers a nice village with overnight lodging. Further north, Bretton Woods is one of the last larger New England mountains (1,500 ft vertical, 97 trails/glades) I have yet to ski, but it has successfully branded itself as a classy family mountain with fine intermediate terrain and introductory-level tree skiing. Nearby accommodations are highlighted by the historic 200-room Mt. Washington Hotel. Black Mountain, NH, is another eastern Freedom Pass participant that deserves mention. It is surprisingly challenging for a smaller mountain (1,100 ft vertical, 40 trails). It is very affordable and has throwback lifts and pretty views of the White Mountains. There was a corral filled with live horses at the base of the slopes when I visited back in 2010.
Maine
Mt Abram is a fine smaller mountain with a 1,150-ft vertical drop and 51 trails. It has a crazy, anachronistic trail name theme based on the 1960s Rocky and Bullwinklecartoon show. The main double chair is called the Wayback Machine, and there are some good steeps sprinkled across the mountain including a small rock band on the black diamond Rocky's Run. The area sustained a devastating fire that wiped out the base lodge in 2011, but they have been using an adequate replacement structure since then. Crowds at this mountain are generally light all season. It is located about a dozen miles from the much larger Sunday River Ski area and provides a very homey contrast. Mt Abram is part of the MRA group.
New York
Plattekill and Windham are two interesting and strongly contrasting ski areas near each other in the Catskill Mountains of New York. Old-school Plattekill has 1,100 ft vertical and 38 trails. It participates in the Freedom Pass, but is endearingly noncomformist in all other ways. Plattekill has challenging bump runs and tons of tree skiing. Windham is groomer-centric and more upscale, but very competently managed. It has 1,600 ft vertical and 54 family-friendly trails. The foremost indie ski area in western New York is Holiday Valley (750 ft vertical, 53 trails). Holiday Valley features a rarity for Eastern ski areas south of New England, a genuine little ski town right at the base of the slopes in the form of Ellicottville.
Massachusetts
Two of the notable independent ski areas in Massachusetts are Wachusett Mountain and Berkshire East (which recently acquired Catamount in New York). They can be accessed via Rt 2 about 50 and 100 mi west of Boston, respectively. Set in a beautiful rural landscape dappled with blue ponds and evergreen forests, Wachusett (1,000 ft vertical and 26 trails) is a popular and well-run mountain for day-tripping Bostonians. I closed out my 2006 season there on a pretty spring day. I haven't had the pleasure of skiing B-East, but the 1,180 vertical ft and 45 trails include mogul runs and steep tree skiing known to entice skilled snow riders.
I have not been to Ski Sundown (625 ft vertical and 16 trails), but it's known for the steepest, longest bump run in Southern New England. They have been holding mogul contests on the black diamond Gunbarrel trail for decades. Located in the Hartford exurbs, this place is the definition of a feeder hill.
Pennsylvania
Seven Springs in Western Pennsylvania is a venerable (1935) and popular resort that attracts day-tripping guests from nearby Pittsburgh and weekenders from Washington and Baltimore. What it lacks in vertical (750 ft), it makes up with horizontal (33 trails and 10 lifts). Seven Springs has possibly the best terrain park scene in the mid-Atlantic, and the slopeside Foggy Goggle bar is a fantastic place to catch a Steelers game. Stretching the definition of independent, the owner of Seven Springs also controls two other nearby small ski areas, Hidden Valley and Laurel Mountain. Blue Knob (1,070 ft vertical, 34 trails) is about 70 mi northeast of Seven Springs. It was the first place I ever skied, in 1967, and will always hold a special place in my heart. The icy moguls of Extrovert make it a true double black diamond, and when Mother Nature brings the white stuff, Blue Knob's tree skiing is among the best this side of New England. Elk Mountain (1,000 ft vertical, 27 trails) is in northeastern Pennsylvania about 30 mi from Scranton. I haven't been there, but I've heard it has good snow, sustained steeps, and no crowds.
There are actually four ski areas in Virginia, but the two most notable independent operations are Wintergreen (1,000 ft vertical, 26 trails) and Massanutten (1,110 ft vertical, 14 trails) located about 50 mi apart in the central-western part of the state. Both ski areas are well run with tremendous snowmaking systems. They draw big weekend crowds and have a lot of accommodations close to the slopes. Wintergreen has more diverse terrain, but the "experts only" quad chair at Massanutten serves a pair of nice runs and is rarely crowded.
Massanutten, VA, photo by Jim Kenney
West Virginia
The West Virginia independent ski area where I've had great fun over the years is Timberline (1000' vertical, 37 trails). It is located in Canaan Valley at a relatively high and snowy base elevation of 3268'. Timberline usually features at least one or two bump runs among a nice selection of groomed trails and is one of the best bets in the mid-Atlantic for extensive tree skiing. Owing to the high elevation, the tree skiing is covered and reliably open for access a month or more each season. You'll see a lot of strong telemark skiers, they migrate over from the nearby Whitegrass Nordic Ski operation. Like many indies, Timberline appears to struggle financially at times, but when the snow is good it's definitely worth a visit.
Cherry Bowl Glades at Timberline, WV, photo by Jim Kenney
North Carolina
This is a part of Eastern US ski country I have never visited in winter. The mountains are taller here than any place else in the Eastern US. The two ski areas in the state that draw the most guests are Beech Mountain (830 ft vertical, 17 trails) and Sugar Mountain (1,200 ft vertical, 21 trails). The summit elevations of Beech and Sugar are 5,500 and 5,300 ft, respectively.
Quebec
My knowledge base of ski areas in Quebec is limited to two very good ones, Mont-Sainte-Anne (MSA) and Le Massif. MSA is one of the six ski areas owned by the Resorts of the Canadian Rockies and joined the Epic Pass family in early 2018. But I believe Le Massif (2,526 ft vertical, 52 trails) qualifies as an independent. Both of these ski areas have dramatic settings next to the St. Lawrence River, but Le Massif stands out in my memories as especially beautiful and pristine. At Le Massif, you park and start skiing from the summit and the trails suddenly dip away to reveal a mind blowing mountain-maritime vista unlike anything I’ve skied in my life. With an almost fjord-like geography, Le Massif will turn the most jaded ski traveler into a scenery gaper. One day during our 2008 visit, my wife and I spied chunks of ice the size of 18-wheelers laying stranded in the mudflats along the edge of the St Lawrence River just beyond the base of the lifts.
Many casual observers might surmise that Western North America has been the focus of the great multiresort ski pass wars, but the truth is Eastern North America has gone through tremendous realignments as well. These changes are so dynamic and some resort linkages are so labyrinthian that I'm sure I'll need help correcting or updating this article the moment it is published.
But here's the point: how one defines an independent ski area is not nearly as important as making sure you don’t miss out on the unmistakable and authentic brand of skiing/riding offered by these mountains. You can find indies in every corner of the continent -- but maybe not forever! It's been very hard for me to accept that Saddleback, ME, one of the most beautiful independent ski areas in the East, remains on the list of lost ski areas. On your way to bagging a bunch of Epic resorts or Ikon-ic mountains, I urge you to occasionally take the road less traveled. It's hard to imagine a healthy ski industry without the numerous independent feeder hills we now enjoy.
Click here for Part 1 (West).
The spectacular rise of multiresort passes like Epic, Ikon, MCP (Mountain Collective Pass), and Peak makes us wonder, “Who the heck is still independent?” Some of these groupings, such as Epic/Vail Resorts, are united by common ownership; others are merely cooperating on passes to some degree. Ikon is a hybrid of owned and cooperating resorts. The Power Pass is a baby version of the aforementioned big guys with unlimited skiing at five smaller Southwestern ski areas and reciprocity at a bunch more. But consider Sugarbush, an altogether different beast. It is a truly fine independently owned (principal owner Win Smith) and operated Vermont ski area. However, for the purposes of this discussion, I'll categorize it in the multiresort pass group because in the scramble to compete, it participates in not one, but two such offerings, Ikon and MCP.
Sugarbush, VT; photo by Jim Kenney
Determining “independence” gets even fuzzier due to the growing popularity of limited pass reciprocity. That is, many resorts sell a season pass that is primarily only for their area, but also participate in programs that add a few bonus reciprocal days that permit free skiing at other ski areas. Monarch in Colorado was one of the pioneers of this technique and still uses it to add competitive strength. The 2018-19 Monarch season pass includes the benefit of three days each at an astounding 36 ski areas! The Powder Alliance (19 ski areas, mostly in the West) and the Freedom Pass (14 ski areas, nine in the East) are two other well-organized variations on this theme. And just to make your head spin faster, these reciprocity arrangements are highly fluid and frequently expand or contract from one off-season to the next.
The further you dig into the independence thing, the more there is to grapple with (or is that graupel with?). There are a number of under-the-radar unions of ski areas that casual industry observers may not know about. In the East this would include ski area teamings such as Greek Peak-Toggenburg, Jiminy Peak-Cranmore-Bromley, the NY State-owned trio of Belleayre, Gore, and Whiteface, and Snow Time Inc. (Liberty, Whitetail, Roundtop in Pennsylvania). Oops, scratch the Snow Time group, because it was just bought by Peak Resorts. Do you consider these to be groups or independents? Are their season passes fully reciprocal? I’m only scratching the surface of various forms of ski resort linkage, and then there are organizations such as the Mountain Rider’s Alliance (MRA). MRA is an advisory group without pass reciprocity that seeks to unite small, independent ski areas to tackle sustainability, environmental, and operational issues.
Before I begin a review of some of the most notable Eastern indies, I probably should list my understanding of Eastern ski areas that are not independents, at least in the sense that they participate in one or more of the most popular national/international multiresort pass products.
- Ikon: Killington, Sunday River, Sugarloaf, Mont Tremblant, Stratton, Snowshoe, Loon, Blue Mountain Ontario, Sugarbush
- Epic: Stowe, Okemo, Mount Sunapee, Mont-Sainte-Anne, Stoneham
- MCP: Sugarbush
- Peak: Mount Snow, Wildcat, Attitash, Crotched Mountain, Hunter Mountain, Big Boulder, Jack Frost, and, as of September 2018, Liberty, Whitetail, and Roundtop
- Freedom: Black Mountain (NH), Bolton Valley, Dartmouth Skiway, Granite Gorge, Lost Valley, Magic Mountain, McIntyre, Plattekill, and Whaleback
These products all offer significant forms of full or partial season pass reciprocity. The MCP offers only two or three free reciprocal days at member areas, but unlimited half-price days.
With that gelatinous definition of the term “independent” and excluding the preceding list of major multiresort pass participants, here is my state-by-state (or province) breakdown of some of the more prominent and visit-worthy independent ski areas in Eastern North America. The ski areas I have chosen to discuss have qualities worthy of a visit from afar such as considerable size, unique character, or favorable reputations. I have visited and photographed a good percentage of them. I am going to break my rule and mention a few resorts participating in the Freedom Pass, but there are many more smaller indies in the East that I won't address. Almost all indies share the qualities of affordability, modest crowds, and family-friendliness.
Vermont
The state of Vermont has a terrific array of independent ski areas. Mad River Glen's 2,037-ft vertical drop, 45 trails, and 800 acres of boundary-to-boundary off-piste includes some of the greatest tree skiing in the US. Gnarly MRG, founded in 1948, is one of the cathedrals of our sport. Ride the single chair, embrace the natural snow surfaces, and be sure to check out a base lodge that is retro to the max. Smugglers' Notch (2,610 ft vertical, 78 trails) is renowned as a great family hill with an extensive and affordable village of condos at its base. But it also has good terrain variety including some very challenging runs and tree skiing off the ancient Madonna 1 double chair. I skied there back around 1990 and vividly remember skiing over a frozen waterfall/cascade. Geographically, Smuggs is very close to Stowe. You have to wonder if Vail Resorts has an interest in acquiring it and linking it with ski lifts to Stowe? I have not skied Middlebury Snow Bowl (1,000 ft vertical, 17 trails, six glades), but I understand it can be a fine escape from more crowded mountains and has enough steeps and glades to entertain rambunctious students from nearby Middlebury College.
Mad River Glen, VT celebrated 70 years of independent ownership in 2018; photo by Jim Kenney
Bolton Valley (1,704 ft vertical, 71 trails) and Magic Mountain (1,500 ft vertical, 39 trails, 11 glade runs) are part of the Freedom Pass, but I'm going to mention them anyway because they are soulfully independent in all other ways and need the love. Bolton has slopeside lodging and is known for affordable family skiing. It is 25 mi east of Burlington and gets good northern Vermont snow for some fun tree skiing. Magic Mountain is in Southern Vermont near Stratton and Bromley. I skied it for two days in the late 1980s. The operation at Magic has faced fiscal challenges over the years, to say the least, but it seems to have stabilized with new ownership, and when the snow comes it draws a cult of avid tree skiers. Suicide Six (650 ft vertical, 23 trails) is a small ski area in central Vermont with heart and a lot of history. It was the site of the first rope tow in the Eastern US in 1934. These days it is operated as a sort of winter amenity by the nearby and upscale Woodstock Inn. Back in the day, a run straight down the face of this hill was considered suicidal. It's still a pretty good bump workout 80+ years later!
Suicide Six, VT; photo by Jim Kenney
New Hampshire
There is something about the state of New Hampshire that really appeals to me. It's less developed than Vermont and the peaks are higher, crowned by the +6,000-ft Mt. Washington Massif. The views from the summit of Waterville Valley (2,020 ft vertical, 60 trails, five glades) convey this with a seemingly endless vista of pine forests. The ski area has good variety and offers a nice village with overnight lodging. Further north, Bretton Woods is one of the last larger New England mountains (1,500 ft vertical, 97 trails/glades) I have yet to ski, but it has successfully branded itself as a classy family mountain with fine intermediate terrain and introductory-level tree skiing. Nearby accommodations are highlighted by the historic 200-room Mt. Washington Hotel. Black Mountain, NH, is another eastern Freedom Pass participant that deserves mention. It is surprisingly challenging for a smaller mountain (1,100 ft vertical, 40 trails). It is very affordable and has throwback lifts and pretty views of the White Mountains. There was a corral filled with live horses at the base of the slopes when I visited back in 2010.
Base area of Black Mountain, NH; photo by Jim Kenney
Located in the mid-state Lakes Region, Gunstock is a municipally owned ski area with a 1,400-ft vertical drop and 55 trails. I skied it on a snowy, low-visibility day in 1995 and missed most of the scenic setting near the shores of huge Lake Winnipesaukee (75,000 acres). It's a good place for groomer zoomers. I have not been to nearby Ragged Mountain (1,250 ft vertical, 57 trails), but I understand it has an excellent lift infrastructure including a six pack and high-speed quad that enable guests to rack up ski mileage. It's also known for good tree skiing when Mother Nature cooperates. I have not visited Pats Peak (770 vertical, 27 trails) in southern New Hampshire either, but its location is convenient (35 min to Manchester) for a quick ski session.
Maine
Mt Abram is a fine smaller mountain with a 1,150-ft vertical drop and 51 trails. It has a crazy, anachronistic trail name theme based on the 1960s Rocky and Bullwinklecartoon show. The main double chair is called the Wayback Machine, and there are some good steeps sprinkled across the mountain including a small rock band on the black diamond Rocky's Run. The area sustained a devastating fire that wiped out the base lodge in 2011, but they have been using an adequate replacement structure since then. Crowds at this mountain are generally light all season. It is located about a dozen miles from the much larger Sunday River Ski area and provides a very homey contrast. Mt Abram is part of the MRA group.
Mt Abram, ME; photo by Jim Kenney
Black Mountain of Maine (not to be confused with Black Mountain, NH) is located about 45 mi from the town of Gorham, just north of Wildcat ski area (part of Peak Resorts); the two mountains could easily be combined on a visit to the Mt Washington region. I have never skied at Black Mountain of Maine, but I've always heard good things about its advanced terrain (1,380 ft vertical, 50 trails and glades). I haven't been to Shawnee Peak, either, but it has a 1,300 ft vertical and 44 trails. Shawnee is 45 mi from Portland with good affordability and extensive night skiing.
New York
Plattekill and Windham are two interesting and strongly contrasting ski areas near each other in the Catskill Mountains of New York. Old-school Plattekill has 1,100 ft vertical and 38 trails. It participates in the Freedom Pass, but is endearingly noncomformist in all other ways. Plattekill has challenging bump runs and tons of tree skiing. Windham is groomer-centric and more upscale, but very competently managed. It has 1,600 ft vertical and 54 family-friendly trails. The foremost indie ski area in western New York is Holiday Valley (750 ft vertical, 53 trails). Holiday Valley features a rarity for Eastern ski areas south of New England, a genuine little ski town right at the base of the slopes in the form of Ellicottville.
Inside the rustic base lodge at Plattekill, NY; photo by Jim Kenney
Massachusetts
Two of the notable independent ski areas in Massachusetts are Wachusett Mountain and Berkshire East (which recently acquired Catamount in New York). They can be accessed via Rt 2 about 50 and 100 mi west of Boston, respectively. Set in a beautiful rural landscape dappled with blue ponds and evergreen forests, Wachusett (1,000 ft vertical and 26 trails) is a popular and well-run mountain for day-tripping Bostonians. I closed out my 2006 season there on a pretty spring day. I haven't had the pleasure of skiing B-East, but the 1,180 vertical ft and 45 trails include mogul runs and steep tree skiing known to entice skilled snow riders.
Wachusett Mountain, MA; photo by Jim Kenney
Connecticut
I have not been to Ski Sundown (625 ft vertical and 16 trails), but it's known for the steepest, longest bump run in Southern New England. They have been holding mogul contests on the black diamond Gunbarrel trail for decades. Located in the Hartford exurbs, this place is the definition of a feeder hill.
Pennsylvania
Seven Springs in Western Pennsylvania is a venerable (1935) and popular resort that attracts day-tripping guests from nearby Pittsburgh and weekenders from Washington and Baltimore. What it lacks in vertical (750 ft), it makes up with horizontal (33 trails and 10 lifts). Seven Springs has possibly the best terrain park scene in the mid-Atlantic, and the slopeside Foggy Goggle bar is a fantastic place to catch a Steelers game. Stretching the definition of independent, the owner of Seven Springs also controls two other nearby small ski areas, Hidden Valley and Laurel Mountain. Blue Knob (1,070 ft vertical, 34 trails) is about 70 mi northeast of Seven Springs. It was the first place I ever skied, in 1967, and will always hold a special place in my heart. The icy moguls of Extrovert make it a true double black diamond, and when Mother Nature brings the white stuff, Blue Knob's tree skiing is among the best this side of New England. Elk Mountain (1,000 ft vertical, 27 trails) is in northeastern Pennsylvania about 30 mi from Scranton. I haven't been there, but I've heard it has good snow, sustained steeps, and no crowds.
Extrovert trail at Blue Knob, PA; photo by Jim Kenney
Virginia
There are actually four ski areas in Virginia, but the two most notable independent operations are Wintergreen (1,000 ft vertical, 26 trails) and Massanutten (1,110 ft vertical, 14 trails) located about 50 mi apart in the central-western part of the state. Both ski areas are well run with tremendous snowmaking systems. They draw big weekend crowds and have a lot of accommodations close to the slopes. Wintergreen has more diverse terrain, but the "experts only" quad chair at Massanutten serves a pair of nice runs and is rarely crowded.
West Virginia
The West Virginia independent ski area where I've had great fun over the years is Timberline (1000' vertical, 37 trails). It is located in Canaan Valley at a relatively high and snowy base elevation of 3268'. Timberline usually features at least one or two bump runs among a nice selection of groomed trails and is one of the best bets in the mid-Atlantic for extensive tree skiing. Owing to the high elevation, the tree skiing is covered and reliably open for access a month or more each season. You'll see a lot of strong telemark skiers, they migrate over from the nearby Whitegrass Nordic Ski operation. Like many indies, Timberline appears to struggle financially at times, but when the snow is good it's definitely worth a visit.
Cherry Bowl Glades at Timberline, WV, photo by Jim Kenney
North Carolina
This is a part of Eastern US ski country I have never visited in winter. The mountains are taller here than any place else in the Eastern US. The two ski areas in the state that draw the most guests are Beech Mountain (830 ft vertical, 17 trails) and Sugar Mountain (1,200 ft vertical, 21 trails). The summit elevations of Beech and Sugar are 5,500 and 5,300 ft, respectively.
Quebec
My knowledge base of ski areas in Quebec is limited to two very good ones, Mont-Sainte-Anne (MSA) and Le Massif. MSA is one of the six ski areas owned by the Resorts of the Canadian Rockies and joined the Epic Pass family in early 2018. But I believe Le Massif (2,526 ft vertical, 52 trails) qualifies as an independent. Both of these ski areas have dramatic settings next to the St. Lawrence River, but Le Massif stands out in my memories as especially beautiful and pristine. At Le Massif, you park and start skiing from the summit and the trails suddenly dip away to reveal a mind blowing mountain-maritime vista unlike anything I’ve skied in my life. With an almost fjord-like geography, Le Massif will turn the most jaded ski traveler into a scenery gaper. One day during our 2008 visit, my wife and I spied chunks of ice the size of 18-wheelers laying stranded in the mudflats along the edge of the St Lawrence River just beyond the base of the lifts.
Le Massif, Quebec; photo by Jim Kenney
Conclusion
Many casual observers might surmise that Western North America has been the focus of the great multiresort ski pass wars, but the truth is Eastern North America has gone through tremendous realignments as well. These changes are so dynamic and some resort linkages are so labyrinthian that I'm sure I'll need help correcting or updating this article the moment it is published.
But here's the point: how one defines an independent ski area is not nearly as important as making sure you don’t miss out on the unmistakable and authentic brand of skiing/riding offered by these mountains. You can find indies in every corner of the continent -- but maybe not forever! It's been very hard for me to accept that Saddleback, ME, one of the most beautiful independent ski areas in the East, remains on the list of lost ski areas. On your way to bagging a bunch of Epic resorts or Ikon-ic mountains, I urge you to occasionally take the road less traveled. It's hard to imagine a healthy ski industry without the numerous independent feeder hills we now enjoy.
Bring back Saddleback, ME; photo by Jim Kenney
The indie experience usually starts with a free parking spot close to the lifts. Enjoy the scenery, hopefully unspoiled by the overzealous slopeside development often found at many megaresorts. Take a run with a few rocks and weeds showing through the thin cover. It will ski more like a country road on Sunday than an Interstate at rush hour. This quote is from general manager Peter Mackey, who recently retired after 40 years of dedicated service at Middlebury Snow Bowl, and nicely sums up the essence of many independent ski areas: "We have no bar, no night skiing, no housing. We’re just a family-friendly ski area that hosts high-quality racing events and tries to remain affordable to the local community, in the hopes that they can enjoy this lifelong sport.”
Click here for Part 1 (West).
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. These to pass giants are looking to add "feeder areas" to their collection. Families that might ski a Seven Springs or a Waterville Valley to entice them to come west to one of their bigger resorts.
