And as a bootfitter....having alignment checked might be an option.
That's the answer. IME many beginners can't do that only because they are a little in the backseat, and/or tentative and afraid to give up the pressure on the inside ski. Getting them to extend and stand taller sometimes helps. YMMV.Stand on BOTH feet in your gliding wedge and, without moving your pelvis from between the skis, relax the leg toward the desired direction and let that ski flatten.
Flattening the ski releases pressure. The pressure difference is what causes the turn. But pressure is what makes you feel connected to the ground and secure. The same problem persists into higher level skiing. The difference between stem christie and parallel is only that the stem christie skier holds on to the downhill edge too long, until the uphill edge is engaged. Watch advanced skiers closely, and often you will see the new inside ski step at the transition to get out of the way of the new outside ski that is beginning to turn toward it, or maybe the lever on the heel binding of the new outside ski will move before the new inside. That's all caused by hanging on to the secure feeling caused by pressure on the old outside ski. It's an advanced skill to release that pressure before you establish a secure base of support on the other ski. Your body is smarter than you are and does not want to let go of that secure feeling. It takes a long time to get over that.Not really necessary to "give up pressure" on the inside ski. Just reduce the edging and the other edged ski takes over
Of course. The question is troubling though. How are you turning?Is there never a need to rotate the legs to get a sharper turn radius?
Yes, go around those poles instructors have set out on the beginner hill. Once the turn gets started, you will need to rotate the skis a little to shorten your turns to get around them. Watch other skiers and do it the way they are doing it. Don't think too much about it, just do it. Over and over and over and over.@James I am not able to that's why I have this thread open ... But FWIW I am currently only doing snowplow turns where the skis are already wedge shaped, so I thought I won't have to turn it any more to get the turn effect.... In short, my turn radius will be pre-determined by the wedge angles of my snowplow....
Btw - I think that being able to zigzag between flag pokes is a good test of turning skills right? Should I try that drill after I able to do turns consistently?
You can go straight without turning in the same wedge. You determine the turn radius by turning the skis/feet/legs. You point the ski tips where you want to go.In short, my turn radius will be pre-determined by the wedge angles of my snowplow.
Ok. So here is a stab at the final procedure..
When in forward motion
1. edges remain flat even in wedge When in a wedge, both inside edges are engaged.
At all times:
1. Maintain narrow wedge at all times You COULD go parallel in traverses between turns or to go downhill quicker if terrain permits.
2. Inner is not inner edged (because inner edge of inner ski will prevent turn) Inner ski of turning wedge is edged LESS than outer ski. Note that if you want a tighter turn, you can INCREASE edging of outer ski.
3. Body centered over base of support and knees ankles flexed to achieve that as needed Maintain contact between shins and boot tongues.
4. Pelvis centered between skis at all times in wedge
5. Think in terms of balance and not weight
When turning left:
1. Relax both legs tiny bit to the left. This will increase right legs inner edge and increase left leg outer edge. This is mainly done to avoid “stuck ski problem” You do not want a ski outer edge engaged while in a wedge.
2. Turn right ski left by pushing its tail to the right.DO NOT PUSH SKI TAILS!! If you edge a ski and pressure it slightly, it will turn. If skis are basically flat, you can turn them with steering efforts. Pushing the tip won’t work because it will get stuck in snow.
3. Turn right ski only as needed if that wedge angle and tipping is not gneraating the desired turn radius If you're not getting a turn to the left after flattening the left ski, you're overweighting the left ski.
4. DO NOT put separate effort to turn tail of left ski. It should happen automatically if the right turned the right ski and did that above things correctly. I Do not understand what this means.
To go back into the fall line after going left enough:
1. Knees and legs centered again
2. Flat edges on both skis If you're in a wedge and have the skis equally weighted, the skis will seek the fall line.
This is what I plan to do this week. Please check if I summarized all the rules correctly
This^^^^^Yes, I am analytical thinker ... to a fault now that it hinders me from learning skiing I guess ☹
No baby ever learned to walk by writing a procedure or summarizing rules.Ok. So here is a stab at the final procedure...
Please check if I summarized all the rules correctly
I was going to say this.And as a bootfitter....having alignment checked might be an option.
beginners quit because no one cares enough to inform them about how important having their own, properly set-up boots is.
Yes, I am analytical thinker ... to a fault now that it hinders me from learning skiing I guess ☹
^Pay attention!DO NOT PUSH SKI TAILS!! If you edge a ski and pressure it slightly, it will turn. If skis are basically flat, you can turn them with steering efforts.
?? (It won't get stuck, you'll end up at the bottom quickly)Pushing the tip won’t work because it will get stuck in snow.