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It's getting chilly...help a first time cold weather rider

Brian Likes Pow

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all over
Here's my winter ride set up. Thin hat under helmet, merino wool quarter zip with a silky wicking base layer, old ski gloves, thermal bottoms under padded shorts. If it really cold add a windbreaker, thin facemask and chemical heaters, switch shorts to non cotton sweatpants. I ditch the bladder in the camelback and use the extra room for a smaller bottle of water and a mini thermos with hot coffee and and extra thin just incase layer. I pack everything a little heavier in case bad stuff happens. Once you're moving and the blood flows you somehow stay fairly warm as long as the wind isn't cutting too bad
 

firebanex

Making fresh tracks
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*Keep in mind I'm in Alaska and have a much different opinion of cold than the rest of you do at times. You will need to adjust the temp thresholds for your own self*

My main advice is: You want to be slightly chilly when you start as you will warm up as you go. Unless you start with a descent, then bundle the f up and hope you can warm up on the next climb.

Poagies come out at about 20* and I'm using the midweight HandUp gloves pretty much all of the time.

Head: Half Buff folded over into a headband to cover the forehead and ears when it gets below 40* and honestly this gets me down to about -10. Beyond that I add a buff to my neck and bring it up to cover my ears, face, and back of head. I never ride with goggles or glasses in the winter because they ice up. I wear a normal bike helmet all winter, my riding buddies usually have ski helmets on when it gets really cold.

Upper body: T-shirt under a jersey + arm warmers/elbow pads when below 40* to about 20*, possibly a Patagonia Hoodini or a softshell jacket if its windy or damp. 20* and less and I switch to a Patagonia R1 Techface fleece and a midweight underlayer long sleeve. Insulated windproof vest comes out at about 0, and at about -20 I switch out the fleece for a wind resistant Black Diamond puffy and that gets me to somewhere south of -36.

Lower body: This is tricky area and I'm still working on my own layering system. at 40* to about 20* I have my regular MTB shorts and pads on. If it's wet or snowy, I'll put a pair of weather proof biking pants on. Colder than that, I don't own any XC ski pants or long cycling bibs but usually wear a pair of regular bibs or mtb liners under a pair of insulated soft shelled winter hiking pants I got from REI a few years ago. Sadly they are discontinued and I've never found anything quite as awesome since then. Most of my riding friends are using the usual long underwear + good hiking pants combo.

Feet: Another tricky spot cause everyone has different cold feet tolerances. My regular summer fiveTen Freerider Pro's are the waterproof version and get me to about 15*. Then I switch to 45NRTH Wolvhammer boots and add in heater packs at -20. Friends of mine tend to use insulated winter hiking shoes/boots with heater packs. Another has a set of heated socks that he swears by too. I have a couple pairs of mid thickness merino wool socks that have treated me well so far.

I suspect that you may not need to go to the extremes that I do, so I would first suggest that you put some thicker socks on, arm and leg warmers (or pads) on, a hat/headband for the ears, and a jacket of sorts (patagonia hoodini or something similar). See where you are at for comfort and add from there!
 

Delicious

Glass Cranks
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Lots of great suggestions in the previous posts. Merino baselayers. Sometimes it helps to have different sizes to layer them(thin). If my core is warm/dry/generally comfortable, I find that I can get away with miscalculations in the outer extremities. Since gloves can be a tricky choice on bicycles, focus more on your wrists. If your wrists are warm, your hands are more likely to be happy. I use either a merino glove, or occasionally some waxed Kinco "drivers", which are kind of a non-insulated ranch-style glove for wet/cold big days. Merino socks, but thin enough to leave space in your shoe. Tape over any ventilation holes in shoe sole. Neoprene shoe covers are also appropriate in many climates. Since you have a backpack, carry a merino balaclava and a plastic shopping bag to shove under the front of your jersey. These 2 backpack items will maybe go unused, but can both save your day if you miscalculated somewhere else. I've also been rolling with an extra set of gloves for myself, or even to share. <--gross, but always welcomed when needed!
Some other thoughts:
If you insist on wearing shorts instead of proper winter tights, apply large amounts of Aquaphor to your legs. It repels water, wind, and conserves some body heat.
Showering. I shower before every ride. When showering before cold rides, I very deliberately allow time to completely dry-off and cool back down before kitting up and heading out.
Stretch. If you get cold, stop, and stretch some more.
Avoid tactics like double-socks or double-gloves. Blood circulation and moisture management are more important than R-factor.
Oh man! I almost forgot the BIGGEST cold weather riding tip. CALORIES. Eat MORE before, during?, and definitely after your adventure. Fat, protein, and slower carbs.

Slow winter riding with proper recovery pays huge dividends when spring fever hits.
 

wooglin

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Here's a handy cheat sheet I cut out of a Bicycling magazine years ago.

20211008_071748.jpg
 

Tom K.

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Tons of good advice here. Don't sweat. Better to be a bit cold than wet and cold!

To that end, the best and simplest mtb dressing advice I ever read was from the prolific Richard Cunningham: Arrive at trailhead, unload, set up bike, and decide what to wear to stay warm. Remove one layer and start riding.

One of my favorite colder weather tops is from Sporthill XC. The front is denser than the rest, but it still breathes. For me, breathability is paramount in mtb.
 

martyg

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If you ride clipped in, my best purchase for cycling in the cold was to get some proper cycling boots. Riding with cold feet is probably worse than cold fingers. I tried the neoprene shoe covers, taping the holes, heat packs, etc, but nothing works like the real winter boots. Most "summer shoes" have holes all over the place for ventilation and the wind will find its way in, specially descending. I have the Shimano MW7/MW701 and they work great. I also use them on my gravel setup. The only thing I regret is not buying them earlier. This is one of those things were I'd say pay once and cry once. They will last you for years.
If you ride with flats, a relatively windproof hiking boot with a shank (for stiffness), should do the trick.

This. Shoe covers are useless below a certain temp. Those road shoes, with 3mm of composite material in the soles, do nothing for R value. Shoe covers, universally, are void of material in the bottom, or have a gaging hole for cleats. Every brand makes a winter boot. 45NRTH is the standout.

Beyond that... your usual kit, beefed up. Maybe an extra baselayer on top, and heavier tights should round it out. No need to get too sports specific if you alpine / nordic ski.
 

Tom K.

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Another thing I like to do in the winter that isn't really clothing-related is tailor my ride routes to avoid big, long, uphill slogs followed by long, fast downhills.
 

Crank

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Another thing I like to do in the winter that isn't really clothing-related is tailor my ride routes to avoid big, long, uphill slogs followed by long, fast downhills.

Good point.

On cold days I would start my rides with a good uphill to get warmed up. At my usual trails I normally start out with an easy, level to slightly downhill half mile trail. When really cold I would jam straight up the the high ground.

I never wore a hat under my helmet, but my ears get cold and I have a thin headband to cover them.
 

AmyPJ

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Tons of good advice here. Don't sweat. Better to be a bit cold than wet and cold!

To that end, the best and simplest mtb dressing advice I ever read was from the prolific Richard Cunningham: Arrive at trailhead, unload, set up bike, and decide what to wear to stay warm. Remove one layer and start riding.

One of my favorite colder weather tops is from Sporthill XC. The front is denser than the rest, but it still breathes. For me, breathability is paramount in mtb.
Yes, just like in skiing, you want to start off a tad on the chilly side. Not cold, but a tad chilly. Except the toes and fingers.
 

martyg

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I stopped doing that when I noticed my nordic tights were getting chewed up by cold saddles.

Big fan of a Specilaized tight that I have with a wind block membrane. A few years ago I raced (rode) the Silverton Whiteout. It was -12 at start. I thought that I'd freeze. The tights did really well. It never cracked zero that day.
 

cantunamunch

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This may be a bit off topic, but you shower before the ride? Do you shower again immediately afterwards?

I am very definitely not Delicious either before or after a ride, but I do, yes.

Unless it's a 45min-1hr noodle, then only after.

Big fan of a Specilaized tight that I have with a wind block membrane. A few years ago I raced (rode) the Silverton Whiteout. It was -12 at start. I thought that I'd freeze. The tights did really well. It never cracked zero that day.

I remember you mentioning that in the Fat Biking/ winter shoe thread.
 

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