Northern Rockies/Alberta Jackson Hole and Grand Targhee (January 10-13, 2021)

[Lofcaudio]

My sons and I drove from Missouri to northwest Wyoming to ski the Tetons. My sons' first ski trip ever was six years ago to this very location. We were returning to the scene of the wonderful crime. Like before, we were staying at the Hostel. Unlike before, Wyoming happens to have the best snow in the country at the time of our trip.

Day 1 (January 10): Jackson Hole

Significant line at the Bridger Gondola to begin the day is foreboding. It's cloudy and cold at the base, but once we get on the lift we quickly rise above the inversion to crystal clear skies. We head over to Thunder and Sublette while sticking to the groomed runs (Amphitheater, Grand, Laramie Bowl, Rendezvous Trail) before making our way back across the mountain to the Casper pod. We do a couple of the runs there (Sundog and Easy Does It) and then stop for lunch at Casper's. After lunch, we ski Sleeping Indian and Wide Open and then ride the Teton Lift for the first time. As this is the first lift with no wait, we lap it a number of time before heading over to après Vous (which has a brief line). We ski a few runs on this side before heading back the other direction. We finish the day by going all the way down to Bridger and waiting in it's ridiculous line to go up and finish on Gros Ventre.

Day 2 (January 11): Grand Targhee

We make the drive from Teton Village over to Grand Targhee and are thrilled to have the place all to ourselves (relatively speaking). Grand Targhee is my kind of place. Not only that, this is the first time I've ever been here with a view like this:



We had a blast. No lift lines...no crowded runs...but we did have to drive there and back. (It was worth it.)

Day 3 (January 12): Grand Targhee

Back to GT for more great skiing. No matter how much I would like to love Jackson Hole, it just doesn't satisfy me like Targhee does. After sticking to the runs on the previous day, we explored today and had so much fun. If I ever come back to Wyoming to ski, I think I would prefer to stick to Grand Targhee. It's just my type of skiing.

Day 4 (January 13): Jackson Hole

We get an early start which still means a lengthy queue to get on the Bridger Gondola in the middle of the week in early January. (I can't remember the last time I made my way through a more frustrating ski queue. If you can make your way through this maze without an epic spill, then you should get a trophy.) Jackson Hole is a great ski mountain. But too many people are there to enjoy it for me to enjoy it. I can think of at least 10 places I'd rather ski just to avoid the hordes...but I digress.) Oh, I forgot to mention there is at least 3-5 fresh inches of snow (which might be why we have to wait to get on every lift on a Wednesday). Unfortunately, the weather is not good. While there is fresh snow, most of it is blowing right in our faces reducing visibility to nothing and making even the tamest run a treacherous test of fortitude. My teenage boys are not the strongest of skiers but they stick it out to lunch (again, Casper's). After lunch, the conditions are slightly better but the Casper Lift is now closed, so we ski down to the bottom and wait for 40 minutes to catch the slowed-down Bridger Gondola and find out that most of the upper mountain lifts are on wind hold. It's a treacherous sight once we finally unload. We do savor having Gros Ventre to Slalom all to ourselves as there doesn't appear to be anyone else on the mountain, but the wind is so bad we decide to call it a trip and head back to the Hostel. Once we get there, we find out the whole mountain has been shut down due to inclement weather. I guess we made the right decision to pack it in.

 

[Jim Kenney]

Thanks for the report. I made my first visit to Grand Targhee last winter and enjoyed it too.
Some predicted this would be a good winter to visit smaller resorts and not so good for large, in-demand destinations. Your trip seems to substantiate that line of thinking.

 

[dbostedo]

Glad you got a clear day at Targhee... my only day there (at last year's Gathering) was total bluebird... which lift did you spend the most time on?

 

[chris_the_wrench]

The wind you got on the 13th hammered us up in Whitefish mt too. We never got our mtn top lift opened that day.

Never been to Targhee, sounds cool!
-Chris

 

[Lofcaudio]

Glad you got a clear day at Targhee... my only day there (at last year's Gathering) was total bluebird... which lift did you spend the most time on?

Overall, we liked the vertical and options off of Dreamcatcher and spent the most time there, with the least amount of time in the Blackfoot terrain. Sacajawea is nice, but almost all of the runs have the same boring run-out at the end. Hardly anyone over there though. Overall, I enjoy Targhee and would highly recommend it for all skill levels. But it's a chore to get to.

 

[noobski]

@Lofcaudio or others who have been - I have a small chance of making it out there in a couple weeks if I can reorganize some work. Flights are still pretty cheap by me and it appears lodging is plentiful. I'm also on Ikonstandit so my tix are covered at JH (but not Targhee).

I'm on the fence because of cost, crowds, and I already had a great Utah trip in January. I could reallocate that ski money somewhere else too.

I read about your lines and crowd levels and wondered if you could expand a bit? Was JH too crowded? Lines too long? And how were people and staff? Anecdotally I hear they're rude. But I don't want to be unfair about it. For example, we were in JH / GTNP this fall and we found locals to be historically WAY more rude than we've ever seen. Crowds in the fall in JH were beyond nuts. I assume it was covid related. And I wear my masks in lines and fully honor resort requests and people's space, but I have lost patience for lifties and people screaming / virtue shaming others about masks. (Being polite though is of course fine with me).

I could also go back to Utah and ski the Big Cottonwoods (used up Ikon for little cottonwoods) and know I'd love it, but I've never skied Targhee and Jackson Hole before.

Thank you.

 

[Lofcaudio]

Good questions and all very pertinent. Our experience at both JH and GT was that every employee at both places was going to be a nazi about one thing and one thing only...a face covering that covers mouth and nose when getting on the lift and walking into the buildings. The lift queues were otherwise normal as far as I could tell. I've heard other people also complain about rudeness at JH, but I didn't detect any of that on this trip, but I did notice one thing that I will share. The few JH locals and regulars I talked to came across being snobbish when it comes to their mountain. "You like Snowbird? That's pretty much flat compared to Jackson, don't you think" (Uh...no.) "The only people who like skiing at Aspen are rich people who want to show off their latest gear." (I've heard this one before from other people.) Just stuff like that which I thought was interesting because they loved their mountain and had nothing but derogatory things to say about those places I love to ski.

JH does have some choke points in normal times (mainly the Tram and Bridger Gondola). Those lifts were especially bad with the COVID precautions in place. I was there in the middle of the week in a non-busy week and yet the line for the Tram was typically an hour and Bridger Gondola was 20-30 minutes. JH is a very popular place and as such, is going to have crowds both on the lifts and even on the runs themselves.

Grand Targhee is the exact opposite. No crowds...no lift lines...overall, it's just more the type of place I like to ski. Here's a video of my sons skiing at Grand Targhee on January 11th. No one else is there.

 

[noobski]

Thanks @Lofcaudio!

That was very helpful.

Targhee sounds ideal and I'd likely hit it one or two days, but part of this plan was to keep the budget tight given Ikon use and cheap flights and abundant lodging...however it might be worth just staying at Targhee the whole time and see if I can save on hotel...problem is I also then need the car full time, but maybe. Anyway, thanks for that reassurance on GT.

Just to clarify: 30 - 60 minute waits not on the weekend at JH for the tram and main lift? Do you envision it being even worse on weekendsor snow days?

So the mask stuff and rudeness was what I was most wondering about skiing. I don't mind wearing masks because I understand that they have to request it since it's also county/state/and insurance regulator guidelines to simply stay open. I want to support the resorts that way, but it's just a lot of money to pay to also then be treated poorly and/or watch others treat other people poorly. There's so many other places to ski where they don't act that way.

When we were in JH in Fall, the locals were universally rude, especially in all stores and restaurants. In the fall people (mostly locals/employees) would yell at people walking on the streets for not wearing a mask. My family stopped in Highcountry after getting ice cream at Hagendauz and an employee at Highcountry yelled an 80year+ old man for not having a mask on and told him right to his face he was "a F-ing idiot and to read the Fing signs" in front of at least a dozen customers. I immediately complained to management for obvious reasons and because my little kids were right there in front of all this and the manager defended the employee's behavior. I even asked her to confirrm her understanding of what I just told her because I was in disbelief. She then further defended the employees behavior again. Absolutely. Crazy. We had planned more than one day of tourists stuff, but after one day of that, we didn't return into town. No plans on returning to JH as a tourist other than to pass through to GTNP or to ski.

Anyway, many thanks to you for your quick turnaround.

 

[AmyPJ]

Targhee was a zoo when we were there two weeks ago. Parking has been filling up regularly, particularly on Fridays and weekends. It was such a zoo, we decided to use our Mountain Collective passes and ski JH on Sunday of our trip vs. going back to GT on Sunday. That being said, Sundays are typically quieter than Saturdays, a lot of that has to do with the church crowd from ID Falls/Rexburg who don't ski on Sundays.

As for rudeness--I feel like that's been kind of the norm since last March. It's just a stressful time for most of us. I know locals at my mountain (including myself) are feeling overrun with crowds. Lift lines are longer everywhere, though, because of COVID loading restrictions.

 

[noobski]

Targhee was a zoo when we were there two weeks ago. Parking has been filling up regularly, particularly on Fridays and weekends. It was such a zoo, we decided to use our Mountain Collective passes and ski JH on Sunday of our trip vs. going back to GT on Sunday. That being said, Sundays are typically quieter than Saturdays, a lot of that has to do with the church crowd from ID Falls/Rexburg who don't ski on Sundays.

As for rudeness--I feel like that's been kind of the norm since last March. It's just a stressful time for most of us. I know locals at my mountain (including myself) are feeling overrun with crowds. Lift lines are longer everywhere, though, because of COVID loading restrictions.

Thanks AmyPJ. Your feedback is really appreciated.

The lines suck for sure, but I think it's great people have outlets. It suprises me people aren't completely pumped up and overjoyed v. what the world was telling folks was happening in March. I am so grateful about it that walk around with a stupid happy smile everytime I'm out hiking and skiing. If you see someone looking like a total noob idiot, that's me.

But kidding aside, anecdotally, I've skied 6 resorts this year and the only place I've seen rudeness was a small amount at Alta at Collins lift. The rest of the places including the rest of Alta (Local, Brighton, DV, Soli, Snowbird) were all very polite. Snowbird was especially polite. They're all well-lead. Occassional rude/crazy skier, but basically most people are very cool about things. That's basically why my tolerance for rudeness is low these day. My Fall experience in Jhole was awful (v. absolutely great experience in Livingston, YNP, etc). In hospitality and most of life, people remember how they were made to feel more than what what was said. It's a choice. The celebration of rudeness is a reflection of poor leadership and/or poor excuses.

 

[tch]

My own (admittedly prejudiced) belief is that many local JH skiers are pretty sure they're at the most authentic, raddest, and bad-ass mountain in the US...which is fine as an opinion. The problem is that many of them feel compelled to act out and voice that opinion way in a very public and aggressive way.

I was much happier skiing at GT than Jackson despite the pretty obvious advantage JH holds in terrain and development.

 

[Dr. Mark]

Grand Targhee was a sweet discovery for me too: much less crowded than Jackson Hole, and it was the first time I saw ski runs rated blue-black. The groomers left half the runs untouched. And as the OP showcases, pretty awesome scenery.

 

[Lofcaudio]

Thanks @Lofcaudio!

...however it might be worth just staying at Targhee the whole time and see if I can save on hotel...problem is I also then need the car full time, but maybe.

If I ever return to Wyoming to ski, I am leaning in the direction of just staying exclusively at Targhee as the drive over from Jackson/Teton Village is quite a slog. I just enjoy the GT experience over that of JH. (On my drive, I noticed a cozy-looking motel just outside of Victor, Idaho which would be the middle spot between the two places.)

The reality is that I like other places much better that are easier for me to get to (primarily, SLC, Aspen, and Telluride). I've been on one trip to Big Sky and feel I need to give it another chance as it has some potential to hang with my other favorites.

 

[Tom K.]

JH has been my place forever -- well, since 1972 or so. For all the reasons discussed above, that ended last year, after the Infamous Annual Guys JH Trip.

I shed an actual tear when I realized that, but we did go out with a BANG!



From quieter, simpler times I will share the end of the ski bum portion of my life:

 

[noobski]

If I ever return to Wyoming to ski, I am leaning in the direction of just staying exclusively at Targhee as the drive over from Jackson/Teton Village is quite a slog. I just enjoy the GT experience over that of JH. (On my drive, I noticed a cozy-looking motel just outside of Victor, Idaho which would be the middle spot between the two places.)

The reality is that I like other places much better that are easier for me to get to (primarily, SLC, Aspen, and Telluride). I've been on one trip to Big Sky and feel I need to give it another chance as it has some potential to hang with my other favorites.

Great feedback; thanks.

We'll be at Big Sky before season end. It's awesome there. Prefer SLC all around options and ease from airport, but Big Sky is just an amazing place. Given your GT interest, I'd recommend you base your parking or lodging out of old Moonlight Basin. Just a more local/relaxed vibe than Madison Base.

Cheers!

 

[noobski]

JH has been my place forever -- well, since 1972 or so. For all the reasons discussed above, that ended last year, after the Infamous Annual Guys JH Trip.

I shed an actual tear when I realized that, but we did go out with a BANG!


From quieter, simpler times I will share the end of the ski bum portion of my life:

Great photos @Tom K. Thank you for sharing.

 

[Tex]

JH is legenday, its all I heard about when I was ski bumming in the 80's. Went 2004, solo trip (my wife is awesome), it met expectations. I remember being impressed with their kid program.

 

[givethepigeye]

Thanks @Lofcaudio!

That was very helpful.

Targhee sounds ideal and I'd likely hit it one or two days, but part of this plan was to keep the budget tight given Ikon use and cheap flights and abundant lodging...however it might be worth just staying at Targhee the whole time and see if I can save on hotel...problem is I also then need the car full time, but maybe. Anyway, thanks for that reassurance on GT.

Just to clarify: 30 - 60 minute waits not on the weekend at JH for the tram and main lift? Do you envision it being even worse on weekendsor snow days?

So the mask stuff and rudeness was what I was most wondering about skiing. I don't mind wearing masks because I understand that they have to request it since it's also county/state/and insurance regulator guidelines to simply stay open. I want to support the resorts that way, but it's just a lot of money to pay to also then be treated poorly and/or watch others treat other people poorly. There's so many other places to ski where they don't act that way.

When we were in JH in Fall, the locals were universally rude, especially in all stores and restaurants. In the fall people (mostly locals/employees) would yell at people walking on the streets for not wearing a mask. My family stopped in Highcountry after getting ice cream at Hagendauz and an employee at Highcountry yelled an 80year+ old man for not having a mask on and told him right to his face he was "a F-ing idiot and to read the Fing signs" in front of at least a dozen customers. I immediately complained to management for obvious reasons and because my little kids were right there in front of all this and the manager defended the employee's behavior. I even asked her to confirrm her understanding of what I just told her because I was in disbelief. She then further defended the employees behavior again. Absolutely. Crazy. We had planned more than one day of tourists stuff, but after one day of that, we didn't return into town. No plans on returning to JH as a tourist other than to pass through to GTNP or to ski.

Anyway, many thanks to you for your quick turnaround.

I was in Jackson 2 weeks ago right in between 2 cycles (2 beautiful bluebird but maybe a bit sun baked on South facing stuff and then a storm day). We stay in the Village. I have never had anyone, ever be rude to me in the 10+ years we have been going. That said, we used to stay at the Four Seasons but their rates went CRAZY and then the last time we stayed, the staff seemed like they could care less about service and the $'s we were spending. Not "rude" but indifferent, even as repeat guests. I know they have a screen that brings up your spend, so maybe 8+ years for a week is small beans to them. Who knows. We have been staying at Hotel Terra recently - which has been great, but still will après at FS. Restaurant at Terra we always seem to get the same waitress. She looked at us this last time but didnt say anything until the SO said something to her. Then she goes " yeah, couldnt tell where I knew you from, local or celebrity" - I quickly said "both" and we all laughed. Again, totally cool people.

On the hill, no drama. Actually, people alternating in lift lines, maybe even being a bit too nice on the storm day . JH on-mountain crew was totally great about reminding people on face coverings. Most people just forget.

The tram line.........yeah, it was at least a 4 boat wait last year, and that was with the 100 capacity, the line being the same length and at 25 - figure 8-10 tram wait, I didnt see much social distancing and frankly, unless you are going out of the top gate or never skied the bowl - Sublette is more than fine. id peg it at an hour + wait even on a "meh" day.

Again, not sure about the negative vibe mentioned - its a favorite for us. Last trip up Sublette on the last day, in the storm, super quiet, everyone has gone in I guess (skied right on) - I hit the turn out for Hobacks just past Bivouac as 3 patrollers are coming down as well - they stop, I ask if its "good to go" - they all just nod, say yup. and they were right. No drama at all slip off into the snow and enjoy.

Not sure maybe the town is different - Village is no drama.

 

[noobski]

@Lofcaudio

Quick update: I ended up booking a last minute chase. Skied GT and JH over four days. Pretty epic. Hit GT after a big snow storm (12-16" cold fresh) morning bluebird, coupled with all highways in and out of Driggs being closed. So crowds were light. My buddy who lives there said we hit the jackpot. Got fourth chair up on Blackfoot. Unreal first run, but still found fresh almost all day long. All day skied amazing. Pow stayed fluffy and perfect into the next day. Then moved over to JH where weather was bluebird and springlike. Amazing four days.

Everyone we ran into was cool and very little rudeness other than JH downtown. We ate there one night and that was enough. . . preferred the village and Victor/Driggs. So glad I went!

Thanks for the encouragement.

 

[Lofcaudio]

@Lofcaudio

Quick update: I ended up booking a last minute chase. Skied GT and JH over four days. Pretty epic. Hit GT after a big snow storm (12-16" cold fresh) morning bluebird, coupled with all highways in and out of Driggs being closed. So crowds were light. My buddy who lives there said we hit the jackpot. Got fourth chair up on Blackfoot. Unreal first run, but still found fresh almost all day long. All day skied amazing. Pow stayed fluffy and perfect into the next day. Then moved over to JH where weather was bluebird and springlike. Amazing four days.

Everyone we ran into was cool and very little rudeness other than JH downtown. We ate there one night and that was enough. . . preferred the village and Victor/Driggs. So glad I went!

Thanks for the encouragement.

Awesome report! Glad you were able to pull it off...and with epic conditions to boot! That's the way to make it happen.