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coskigirl

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Since I cant remember the last time I skied so many days at or below zero, I have been using my Thermic's nearly every day (purchased on pro-form). Coming off the Hotronic's, these heaters are light years ahead in terms of battery size, the ability to mount the battery out of the way and the security of the mount (I have broken several hotronic plastic mounts). The other feature I love is the "Motion Control" setting. It uses your phones GPS to detect movement and then turns the heating down to conserve battery (you can select how much and the level of heating when static) but turns it up when static. I was skeptical about this but in trying it out, it really works. The bluetooth based phone app is really handy. Its much easier to look at your phone to see the battery life, current settings and such and adjust as needed.

Thermic heaters and a Kolkea heated boot bag; life changer :thumb:

Be forewarned, I’m going to call you about these this weekend.
 
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Andy Mink

Everyone loves spring skiing but not in January
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I just started using the 1700 Bluetooth heaters a few weeks ago. I started with the batteries outboard on the straps but they got in the way of tightening the straps. I moved them inboard and have only knowingly banged my leg on them a few times. This is on Raptor 140 boots. With the way the clip works, if they fall off you have much more serious things to worry about!

If I remember open the app first then turn on the batteries I get a quick connection. I don't know if it matters but that seems to work best.
 
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justaute

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For those that have used the Thermic's more than a season, how are they holding up? Still heating consistently? Have you had to buy any replacement parts?

There's not a ton of user reviews on the web for the heaters/batteries and what is out there aren't what I'd call glowing reviews. Also, the Therm-ic Controller app has terrible reviews on both the Google and Apple app stores. That said in early Feb they pushed out an update to the app which supposedly addressed the bluetooth issues.

I had Hotronic s3s for few seasons and they served me well, though I did have to replace a battery. Debating Thermic but at this point I'm not sure the size and bluetooth advantages outweigh the reliability.

This is my 2nd season on Thermic. Just broke one of the cables/wires on the battery end when I tried remove it from the battery. In short, the cable/wire is not unlike computer charging cable in that the constant pulling of the cable from the battery (removing battery from boot to charge) weakens the connector. Will be taking mine in next week to get replacement. I'm sure this will happen again. Debating if I should add some shrink-wrap to the connector ends.
 

CO Freeskier

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Debating if I should add some shrink-wrap to the connector ends.

Another option you may want to try is Sugru...moldable putty that cures to a rubber like material:

 

Andy Mink

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Another option you may want to try is Sugru...moldable putty that cures to a rubber like material:

Looks interesting so I ordered some. I have some extension cords on tools that could use a little love. RE: the Thermic plugs, they do like to stay in the batteries...tightly. I just leave them plugged in and charge them on the boots while the boots are on my drier. Less on and off should equal longer life.
 

Tony S

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RE: the Thermic plugs, they do like to stay in the batteries...tightly. I just leave them plugged in and charge them on the boots while the boots are on my drier. Less on and off should equal longer life.
Unfortunately that is much more awkward to carry off when using lace-up liners "race style." Otherwise, definitely the way to go.
 

Andy Mink

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Unfortunately that is much more awkward to carry off when using lace-up liners "race style." Otherwise, definitely the way to go.
True...
 

danno

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Bumping this thread because there seems like some relevant discussion here for the problem I am facing.

Got my kiddo some brand new thermic flat heated insoles (C-Pack 1300_ for this season and went to install them. I assumed that these would install just like the prior old pair that she had (replaced because batteries died and wires got frayed and they were not working great anyway). But after cutting the insole and liner and feeding the wire, I go to grab the battery packs, and rather than clip on the back of the shell like before (and like I have seen from Hotronics), these clip on the power strap. So they can't clip directly to the back of the boot, they have to be on the buckle side, and guess what, on my daughter's 22.5 boot, they interfere significantly with the top buckle.

If you're not sure what I am describing, go here and go to 2:45 in the first video on that page and you can see what I am talking about; they install the battery right over the top buckle (and notably don't go through the actual steps of buckling a boot). That seems ridiculous. But the clip design doesn't allow it to be installed a different way. Anyone have a suggestion for a workaround? Maybe cut the bottom of the metal clip so the whole thing can go between the shell and the liner?

It looks like it might work better on the inside, at least it wouldn't interfere with the buckle, but my daughter is a ski racer and I don't think that's a good idea.
 

Andy Mink

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Bumping this thread because there seems like some relevant discussion here for the problem I am facing.

Got my kiddo some brand new thermic flat heated insoles (C-Pack 1300_ for this season and went to install them. I assumed that these would install just like the prior old pair that she had (replaced because batteries died and wires got frayed and they were not working great anyway). But after cutting the insole and liner and feeding the wire, I go to grab the battery packs, and rather than clip on the back of the shell like before (and like I have seen from Hotronics), these clip on the power strap. So they can't clip directly to the back of the boot, they have to be on the buckle side, and guess what, on my daughter's 22.5 boot, they interfere significantly with the top buckle.

If you're not sure what I am describing, go here and go to 2:45 in the first video on that page and you can see what I am talking about; they install the battery right over the top buckle (and notably don't go through the actual steps of buckling a boot). That seems ridiculous. But the clip design doesn't allow it to be installed a different way. Anyone have a suggestion for a workaround? Maybe cut the bottom of the metal clip so the whole thing can go between the shell and the liner?

It looks like it might work better on the inside, at least it wouldn't interfere with the buckle, but my daughter is a ski racer and I don't think that's a good idea.
Mine are on the inboard back. I thought I'd have a problem but don't seem too. Don't know if that would work on a tiny boot.
 

KingGrump

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If you must clip onto a strap. Mount a short section of poly strap to the desired mount location with couple of tee nuts, screws and washer.
 

danno

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Update: I emailed thermi-ic and they sell a clip that can be used if you can't attach to a power strap. After shipping it is over $30. It's kind of annoying that their info is so lacking, that it is not clear that you must be ok with strap attachment and if you're not, that you have to pay $30 more after spending hundreds on the insoles/battery pack. Hopefully it works, though it certainly won't arrive in time for race training this weekend.
 

Skioutwest

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I just got Therm-ics today and plan to install them tonight. My bootfitter suggested that I exit the liner from the front between the 3rd and 4th toe so that I don't interfere with the footbed too much. The wire would run across the top of the liner and under the inside of the ankle. This route will shorten the wire but I think it will be long enough. Anyone try this method?

Also wondering if I do go through my orthodics, will I feel the hole under the ball of my feet?

Thanks!

-Mark
 

Tony S

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The wire would run across the top of the liner
Is this really what you mean? I'm confused.

You're cutting a slit in the BOTTOM of the liner for the wire coming from the heating element, right?

FWIW I did that the first time through, running the wire between the liner and the zeppa. Then up the back of the liner and out. I've since gone back to running the wire under the footbed (but inside the liner) and out the built-in port in at the heel of the liner.
 

Andy Mink

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I cut a small slot in the liner under the arch and ran it up the back of the liner. Small hole and some relief in the footbed so it sits flush. I never feel it.
 

mountainmama

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Related to this thread. Has anyone had any experience with Therm-ics 3D footbed which already has the heating element in it?
 

Tony S

I have a confusion to make ...
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I cut a small slot in the liner under the arch and ran it up the back of the liner. Small hole and some relief in the footbed so it sits flush. I never feel it.

I've since gone back to running the wire under the footbed (but inside the liner) and out the built-in port in at the heel of the liner.

Right. I should clarify that the reason I went back to this setup is that I boot up racer style (liners on foot, then foot-and-liner in shell). I found that the wire coming around the outside of the heel - or, more accurately, the tape over the wire coming around the outside of the heel - was getting more wear and tear than I wanted to support. Especially since I never found a tape that was both reliably sticky on my ZipFits AND durable. I tried the slick PU tape that Noodler recommended, but it was too stiff and kept coming unstuck. Gaffer tape worked okay but wore through too quickly.
 

Andy Mink

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Right. I should clarify that the reason I went back to this setup is that I boot up racer style (liners on foot, then foot-and-liner in shell). I found that the wire coming around the outside of the heel - or, more accurately, the tape over the wire coming around the outside of the heel - was getting more wear and tear than I wanted to support. Especially since I never found a tape that was both reliably sticky on my ZipFits AND durable. I tried the slick PU tape that Noodler recommended, but it was too stiff and kept coming unstuck. Gaffer tape worked okay but wore through too quickly.
Good point. I'm old school. No fancy racer-boy liner for me.:roflmao:
 

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