Once in a while it's important to get jolted out of your wine ruts - to be reminded that where you've been dwelling in terms of intensities and flavors has artificial boundaries, and that you need to break through them occasionally if you want to keep perspective.
This is a chardonnay that makes my beloved everyday Macons look boring. Sure, it's not Montrachet. It's certainly not Coche-Dury. It's not without flaws. But it's
surprising. As with poetry, if nothing in a wine surprises you, what's it worth? If you want a security blanket, that's what rum and Coke is for.
First there is the appearance, which positively shines, like the chrome on a new Ford Fairlane. The color is gold-green with depth, like an intense young Mosel auslese or Moulin Touchais. Not something I associate with the Chalonnais.
Then there is the penetrating, even pushy nose. It's in your face. On the down side, I notice some wet wool and some sulfur. But also lime zest and apple and crème fraîche and honey and damp sand at the beach.
The Mr. Hyde of wet wool has a Dr. Jekyll that we call "lanolin," and honestly this wine reminds me a whole lot of ...
...
... The one and only time I got to drink Haut Brion Blanc! A long long time ago, but so memorable. I know, weird, right? That semillon!
On the palate, long and - again - waxy. That strange Bordeaux thing. But then back to chardonnay.
Great wine? Probably not. Compelling wine? Yes.