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Mounting Bindings with Paper Templates

Wilhelmson

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A shop (one of the biggest in New England) charged extra to mount adult bindings on kid skis. Extra work, screws etc. I though they if any could just bang it out

Cool templates and instructions. With the money we throw around to ski i still just drop them off. But i do love measuring and tools.
 

anders_nor

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A shop (one of the biggest in New England) charged extra to mount adult bindings on kid skis. Extra work, screws etc. I though they if any could just bang it out

Cool templates and instructions. With the money we throw around to ski i still just drop them off. But i do love measuring and tools.

I just bribed shop guys and bought jigs :p

Also jigarex is rather good I must say.


Right. I'm talking about the opposite: declivities in the base.
ahh interesting, never really seen that, but I see how it can be done quite easy, especially with bindingfreedom or similar at 6,5mm you will quite often see a huge caviity under the screw, as too much wood is removed, not correctly bonded to base etc. also some wood types just is a sponge.
 

oldfashoned

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This is exactly what I was thinking about. I remember a pair of Kästles that I bought in the shrink wrap having a dire warning about drill depth. It stands to reason that if you have to drill a shallower hole you have to use a shorter screw.
Something like this:
09FECB75-2326-4CD7-839D-715189F3388D.jpeg
 

Noodler

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Coda: And what about those annoying receded spots in the base that you can see when scraping, that are obviously aligned with the mounting screws? (I am talking about mounts performed by shops, btw, not my own.) I hate that. Are they avoidable? If so, how? Or does it even matter?

I thought you were referring to the concave spots that can form on the base. Are you actually talking about bumps formed in a convex shape on the base? I have never seen that happen, but obviously would be from too long of a screw or potentially having a hole of insufficient depth.
 

Tony S

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I thought you were referring to the concave spots that can form on the base. Are you actually talking about bumps formed in a convex shape on the base? I have never seen that happen, but obviously would be from too long of a screw or potentially having a hole of insufficient depth.
No, you had it right the first time.
 

Scruffy

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Newbie question. Apologies to those who might think the answer obvious. "You're welcome" to the other clueless Pugs.

There is all this talk about exactly how deep to drill the hole. The step bits make this idiot-proof, assuming you pick the right bit. But what about the screws? Bindings, in my experience, only come with one set of screws.

Say you have a ski that's thinner than normal. (And yes, I mean thinner, not narrower.) Obviously your hole needs to be shallow enough not to intrude on the base. But there you are with the same old screws. Is the assumption that if you are mounting bindings at all, you are going to have little drawers full of mounting screws of the right head type, diameter, and thread, with several different lengths?

To put it a different way, can I trust the screws that come with the bindings are not too long? Obviously I can put a screw though the binding mount plate and hold that assembly next to the ski's sidewall and see if it's CRAZY too long, but what is PRACTICALLY too long?

No you can't trust the screws that come with the binding not to be too long for your skis. Black Crows are an example of a thiny build ski. You need to pay attention to the depth. Some skis ( Kastle, as you mentioned) have the depth marked on the sidewall. If not marked or otherwise available, set the screw in the binding before you install it and lay the binding piece on the ski in the location it will be installed and visually inspect the screw depth. Cut screws with hack saw or grind down.
 

KingGrump

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Newbie question. Apologies to those who might think the answer obvious. "You're welcome" to the other clueless Pugs.

There is all this talk about exactly how deep to drill the hole. The step bits make this idiot-proof, assuming you pick the right bit. But what about the screws? Bindings, in my experience, only come with one set of screws.

Say you have a ski that's thinner than normal. (And yes, I mean thinner, not narrower.) Obviously your hole needs to be shallow enough not to intrude on the base. But there you are with the same old screws. Is the assumption that if you are mounting bindings at all, you are going to have little drawers full of mounting screws of the right head type, diameter, and thread, with several different lengths?

To put it a different way, can I trust the screws that come with the bindings are not too long? Obviously I can put a screw though the binding mount plate and hold that assembly next to the ski's sidewall and see if it's CRAZY too long, but what is PRACTICALLY too long?
This is exactly what I was thinking about. I remember a pair of Kästles that I bought in the shrink wrap having a dire warning about drill depth. It stands to reason that if you have to drill a shallower hole you have to use a shorter screw.

You are talking about the FX85. I bought shorter screws from Tognar & Slidewright for those mounts. Also bought a shorter step bit for those mounts too.

Most bindings come with screw for the standard 9 mm deep holes. So check the notations and labels on the skis prior to mounting. Also as a double check I always put the toe piece & heel track slightly off the ski edge and drop the screws into the holes and eye ball their length vs the thickness of the ski.

To minimize the screw bumps in the ptex. I clean out all the screw holes with awl and compress air. You can also used the awl and then turn the ski upside down so the debris would fall out of the hole.
 

mdf

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Just speculating, but maybe losing the screw and grabbing a wrong length one that was handy?
 

Tony S

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You are talking about the FX85. I bought shorter screws from Tognar & Slidewright for those mounts. Also bought a shorter step bit for those mounts too.

Most bindings come with screw for the standard 9 mm deep holes. So check the notations and labels on the skis prior to mounting. Also as a double check I always put the toe piece & heel track slightly off the ski edge and drop the screws into the holes and eye ball their length vs the thickness of the ski.

To minimize the screw bumps in the ptex. I clean out all the screw holes with awl and compress air. You can also used the awl and then turn the ski upside down so the debris would fall out of the hole.
Okay, so I think I see what's up here. I just happened to be the guy with the anomaly in his quiver. Which led to my confusion and question. Since 20% of my skis have this issue, why is no one talking about it? (Answer: most of you haven't run into it, even though you've done way more mounts, because it's more like 2% - not 20% - of skis overall.)
 

KingGrump

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Okay, so I think I see what's up here. I just happened to be the guy with the anomaly in his quiver. Which led to my confusion and question. Since 20% of my skis have this issue, why is no one talking about it? (Answer: most of you haven't run into it, even though you've done way more mounts, because it's more like 2% - not 20% - of skis overall.)

We are men. We only ski on manly skis. Even our women are on manly skis.
When we buy unmanly skis, we don't acknowledge that fact to the world. It affects the sanctity of our man card. :ogcool:
 
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Tony S

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We are men. We only ski on manly skis. Even our women are on manly skis.
When we buy unmanly skis, we don't acknowledge that fact to the world. It affects the sanctity of our man card. :ogcool:
Your trash talk is crossing threads now. (See what I did there?) Maybe it's time to change your screen name. "Queen of Trash." Something like that. Also, mods, make sure to keep him out of the feeder / nursery topics. Who knows how much damage might be done.
 

oldschoolskier

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after 2 botched mounts at 2 different shops I will only ever mount my own.
I’ll beat that, botched mount on pre-drilled race plates, wrong location and screws not tightened down. Before anyone asks, yes they had the boots.

BTW Look PX14 on a look plate, if you have the BSL you have the locations in the service manual and how hard not to full tighten the screws (ie not leave them half way out).

Lucky I checked before I went out.
 

Dave Marshak

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I think if I were to print my own paper templates I would adjust for the boot lenght in the document file so that I could print our both the heel and toe locations on one sheet. Legal size paper should be long enough for most boots up to about 310mm. I would also include a a ruler scale so I could easily check that it was printed to scale accurately, and somme long straight lines to prove that there was no distortion in the print.

dm
 

Tony S

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I think if I were to print my own paper templates I would adjust for the boot lenght in the document file so that I could print our both the heel and toe locations on one sheet. Legal size paper should be long enough for most boots up to about 310mm. I would also include a a ruler scale so I could easily check that it was printed to scale accurately, and somme long straight lines to prove that there was no distortion in the print.

dm
@tomahawkins has all of that in one form or another.
 

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