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My New England vacation

Doug Briggs

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I've posted some of these in Photo of the day... but here is the whole trip. My plan was to visit with my parents, commission my boat for a longish cruise, go for said cruise, return home and visit some more while decommissioning the boat.

I flew to Portland, ME where my brother picked me up and brought me home. We had a lunch with my dad and mum the following day; he has Alzheimer's and she has PLS and my visits are the only time she gets out of the nursing home she lives in.

Shortly thereafter I drove with my friend Paul and my brother to Paul's family camp in western Maine. No power, no other camps on the lake. High clearance 4WD required to get there.

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The pond the camp is on.

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Eggs, bacon and toast were on the morning menu.

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The fireplace was created with many 'imported' rocks and some humor.

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This made me laugh.

After returning home from the two nights at camp, I visited some more with my mum and prepped my boat for its first voyage in 10 years. I also visited the Abenaki Encampment that I had been to as a kid. It is in Intervale, NH and was a place where 20 - 30 members of a Canadian tribe would come every summer in the early 20th century. They would make crafts and put on exhibitions of their heritage. When I was a Cub Scout our troop visited and there no longer large encampments, but a descendent of the original chief that would visit still lived on the site.

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Many of the artifacts have been lost with just some buildings left as a reminder of times gone by.

My brother and I hauled the boat to South Portland where I launched her.

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I was to see many osprey. Bald eagles were in abundance, but I never got a good photo.

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This was on the first day leaving South Portland by way of Whitehead Passage.

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I spent the first night in Cocktail Cove at Jewell Island.

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The following day started with little wind which then picked up and the weather turned to rain and fog. You can see the rain pocked surface of the ocean. Visibility was as bad as 100 yards at times from the fog. This is the approach to Seguin Island. My dead reckoning skills were put to the test and I passed.

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The makings for sausage and spinach penne and Dark and Stormies.

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The following morning.

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Still a bit foggy. I went ashore to try to get an eye on the weather from the summit of the island. I didn't realize that the lighthouse had a museum and caretaker. I got the one-on-one tour of the lighthouse from Rich, who with his wife Jan, managed the museum and lighthouse tours for the summer.

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In the old days, they used coal to power the fog horn and light. It took a lot of coal, so they built a railway with a cable system to get the coal up the 185 feet of vertical to the light.

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Inside the Fresnel lens. The cable that provided modern power to the light and horn failed last summer so the USCG installed solar panels and converted the incandescent light to an LED. It looked remarkably like the lights I had just installed on my boat except it was 350 watts. Mine were significantly less. The range of the light was reduced from over 20 miles to 14 miles with the conversion.

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Rich with the fog horn building in the background.

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This rope work on a railing was done 30 - 40 years ago. The Coastie that did it came to visit about 3 weeks before I did and explained to Rich that his buddies thought it would be removed soon after it was installed. He was surprised and pleased to see that it had withstood the test of time.

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Near the upper terminal of the railway.

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The engine and cables that moved the coal cars.

I decided to head to a hurricane hole with the increasing likelihood of Henri hitting Maine. On my way I stopped for lunch. Most of the time, though, I ate from my own provisions.

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At the dock for Anna's Seaside restaurant in Phippsburg.

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Some will laugh that I didn't have lobster on my trip. I came for the fresh fried seafood. In this case haddock.

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You walked through a fisherman's shed to get from the dock to the restaurant. It was a shame that the photos were illegible. They would tell a story for sure.

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My hurricane hole for 4 nights and 3 days.

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Rosa Rugosa (my boat) has a 2 foot draft and isn't afraid to sit on mud. I didn't touch bottom but no one else could join me in this section of the Basin.

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They were all over there.

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Rosebud waited patiently while I went for a walk in a Nature Conservancy area.

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My brother visited me on day two in the Basin. I rowed to shore and we drove to Fort Popham to see Henri. This interesting pattern in the sand caught my eye. The winds at the fort were 16 knots gusting to 20 or more. In the Basin I hardly knew it other than some spells of rain. I replenished my ice (I need a much better cooler) and water while I had easy access to what I needed. Another meal at Anna's, too. It was their closing day so cash got you half price dinner. Woohoo! More haddock for me, please.

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After my last night I led the parade of boats out of the Basin. This one was a junk rigged schooner.

I headed back past Seguin and ended up at Damariscove Island. Along the way I had a Zoom call with my mother since I missed our usual call on Sunday. The sailing started out calm and got brisk as the day went on.

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The swells were the only remnant of Henri, seen here breaking on Bald Head ledge. The day beacon was interesting.

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Little Damariscove on Damariscove Island.

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The island is a magical place, another Nature Conservancy location and also managed by the Boothbay Region Land Trust. The BRLT had guest moorings of which I took advantage.

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The dark blob left of center, top, is a 4 - 5 inch lobster.

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The flying object is a massive dragonfly. They were all over the trails and happy on the island with plenty to feed on.

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The water in the foreground is fresh, although not sweet. Beyond was a rocky beach and the ocean.

I left Damariscove for Harbor Island in Muscongus Bay. It was recommended by a guest of the privately owned life saving station that lives nearby on the mainland.

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Harbor Island.

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A heron intently fishing nearby.

At this point I had reached the apex of my journey and was beginning to head back to Portland. To and from Harbor I. gave me some good sailing. There was a moment on my way to Harbor I. that I was unable to find the buoy marking a ledge and had to feel my way around it with the depth sounder. On my way back, I was unexpectedly becalmed and the tide forced me to power up to escape another close call.

Upon departing Harbor I. I made for parts unknown ending up at Little River, south of East Boothbay on Linekin Neck.

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I was again nestled in shallow water at low tide with a fine look down the harbor.

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A mill pond with a fall that provided a nice relaxing ambiance. There is a huge, beautiful house behind the trees to the right.

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Life's little pleasures.

The guide book I had wasn't up to date so when I stopped at a marina to get ice I found there was none to be had. Someone that was working on their boat did offer me a ride to the general store for which I'm grateful.

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You only see about 1/3 of the house in this frame.

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The entrance to Little River was snug with this ledge on your left going in followed by a sharp right turn and a need to hang to the left to avoid a ledge that bisected the narrow harbor. I was making my way on a pleasant and cool north wind when the breeze went all wonky. I eventually made it Damariscove Island after many changes of wind direction and a pantload of biting flies.

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Being a Friday, the harbor was a bit busier in anticipation of the weekend. I spent hours that afternoon just diving, swimming and enjoying frosty cold lagers.

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Idyllic Maine at its best.

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This lobsterman had set up a large kitchen on his boat and float for a party the following day.

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I left the following morning under sail on a north breeze and course due south. This Sidney Herreschoff Seafarer named 'Sensei' was a beauty. The jib could use to be stored better, though.

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Autumn is on its way.

The wind gradually moved around to the south during the day with excellent way made in the morning and sketchy winds after noon. Another close call came at the mouth of the Kennebec River as I passed Seguin as the tide and river current combined to nearly push me onto a ledge. I finished up the day back at my usual first and last night's location of Jewell Island.

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As with Damariscove I. things were a bit busier. I had two anchors out to keep me off the shore and away from the boats.

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Casco Bay was my stomping ground for 12 years so this was a familiar, if bittersweet, sight. Portland Head Light.

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Rosa put away for another winter.

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My family's dog Aurora. I was unfortunately unable to visit with my mother in person upon returning to NH. A staff person at the nursing home had tested positive for Covid-19 so they were under lockdown. (I just found out today that everyone tested negative, so that is a relief.)

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This dragonfly was unafraid. Taken during my last day in NH while boating on Conway Lake with my brother and Paul.
 
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Mike Thomas

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Great photos, I am pretty confident that I was in Portland the night you took the Harbor Island photo of the bright red moon. It was a Beaut for sure.
 

Tony S

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P.S. As the child of a very salty sailor, I recognize that in your narrative. How did you come by that, being from the hills?
 
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Doug Briggs

Doug Briggs

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P.S. As the child of a very salty sailor, I recognize that in your narrative. How did you come by that, being from the hills?
Good question. Maybe it is just Yankee? I like hearing a good story, so I guess I try to tell one.

I've been sailing since '88 so not as salty as I might have been if I'd been born a couple hours to the right.
 

Scruffy

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Very cool. Damariscove Island! I've sailed my boat, and rowed my dory around that island many a time. I was married on a 60' schooner, and said vows as we sailed through Damariscove--know it well. Love the name of your boat--sounds like a real fungi.
 

Scruffy

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@Doug Briggs have you been to the seafood shack at Five Islands (just another inlet or two down from Popham)? Killer. Have the "Jenny Special." Next time.

Five Island seafood shack is a gem.
 
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Doug Briggs

Doug Briggs

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@Doug Briggs have you been to the seafood shack at Five Islands (just another inlet or two down from Popham)? Killer. Have the "Jenny Special." Next time.
Five Island seafood shack is a gem.
After being waylaid by Henri I chose to skip past Sheepscot River. It had been a consideration at one point, though. Next summer. I'll be out before the hurricanes show up, if I can.
 

Muleski

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Great stuff, Doug!

I’ve been fortunate to have cruised that part of the Maine coast pretty extensively, every summer of my 67 years. Lived in Falmouth for 10 years, and felt like I got to know every inch of Casco Bay.

Damariscove is a beautiful spot, the family that owns the old {and beautifully restored} lifesaving station are Sugarloafers, a CVA family.

Very familiar with the Basin, and yes a GREAT hurricane hole. My college roomate grew up in Bath, and his parents had two small, really tiny but awesome cottages in Phippsburg. Also have friends who are like 8th generation lobstermen in Harpswell…and very accomplished ski racers. Bet you know one.

I love that part of New England.

Great “report,” and pics. Thanks for posting them! And yep, Five Islands is great!
 

Jim Kenney

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Thanks for sharing Doug! I am at the NC shore this week. I read your report while I ate my burrito dinner beside the ocean. Kept me in the nautical/marine mode. :ogbiggrin:
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Tricia

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Very nice TR Doug. Thanks for sharing.
 
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Doug Briggs

Doug Briggs

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Here are some videos I uploaded. They are more interesting than most of the still shots while sailing.


This was the day I left The Basin. It started out calm and under power but as I reached the mouth of the New Meadows River, the wind freshened and you might be able to make out the swells that were the aftermath of Henri.


While sitting on my boat, I noticed the light show on the shoreline.


It was a calm morning when I left Harbor Island. I was making about two knots on a beam reach in this video. So peaceful.


The final stretch before hauling out in South Portland. I was on this tack for a couple hours with only a couple of beats near Hope Island to maintain course. Between 4 and 5 knots on a lumpy sea.
 
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Muleski

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Great Videos, Doug.

Thanks for posting. We’re actually ON Casco Bay right now. Actually on a small private island….not Hope, HaHa. But close. I won’t out our friends! I guess that Hope Island is still for sale.

i love that you are able to fly “home”, check in with family and friends and then can get Rosa R in the water and ready to go so quickly. Also, that you’re comfortable cruising her most anywhere. Not a huge yacht. That is just awesome.

We have good friends who live on the New Meadows in Brunswick. Serious sailors and water people. A few years ago, he and I were talking about out first “real semi-cruising boats.”

Mine was a Ranger 23, with a tall rig. My wife and I spent SO much time on her, and raced her a LOT. Great boat. Stiff and fast. Was pretty crowded with a baby and a dog for a couple of weeks, though, so we sold her.

My friend had a 24’ S&S Dolphin, which was a mid 1960’s boat that he put a ton of elbow grease into. Sold her to a friend in town, and proceeded to move up in size three times. To about 48’.

He loved the Dolphin and a few years ago started to look for one to bring back. Tried to buy his old boat back….3 or 4 times, but the owner loves her. Found one, with trailer, cheap…..and proceeded to restore her, pretty much all himself. Not to a museum showpiece, but to a really nice functional vintage. She looks so nice.

The boat looks great, and they sail her all the time. When not fishing on his powerboats. Still sails like a dream.

So many fun nights in the Basin, too. It’s such a beautiful part of Maine. And a 2 foot draft helps.

Headed to Popham in two weeks to see friends. Big draw back to the Mid-Coast, always.

Plus our daughter and her BF just moved back to the Portland area after 8 years living in the “High Rockies.” So far loving being back. Also noce for us to have them 2 hours away rather than 2200 miles.

MIssed the water. The salt water. Mains.,

Thanks again for the posts. Made me smile. A lot! BTW, I “get” the fried seafood tour!

Cheers!!
 

Uncle-A

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Great trip report, I have only been to Maine once and didn't get to see the places in your photos. Thanks for sharing, BTW I will take the fresh fried haddock over the lobster more often than not. But what do I know, I am just a fisherman and a skier.
 
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Doug Briggs

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@Muleski, at 21 feet, she is easy to commission. Her rigging is fairly new although I bought a new jib halyard it didn't get installed. She gets put away clean and it is mostly stocking provisions and loading the running rigging and sails back on board.

I did have to replace the compass. It leaked during the 10 years in storage. Where the oil went, I don't know. She was dry inside.

Adding solar in a temporary fashion was easy. I replaced the compass and some incandescent bulbs with LEDs in Hamilton's parking lot on the way to launch. Having only one shot at cutting the larger hole while in NH was a bit stressful, yet the compass fit without a hitch.

I learned I don't need 100 watts because even with the computer, I didn't run the battery down. I'm going to downgrade to a 50 watt panel I can mount on a rail. The on deck location was inconvenient for foredeck work and raising and lowering sails. Plus I couldn't use the hatch it was covering.

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I learned about Marykate On Off hull cleaner. Her waterline looks great again. It took the rust stains from the swim ladder off as well. I'm fortunate to have cheap inside storage so she'll be clean and nearly ready to go when I return.
 

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