Need drill bit for remount

[murphysf]

Hello

I got a set of kids skis and the bindings were mounted for a much much larger BSL. So I am going to move (remount) some bindings and thought I would get the proper drill bit.

Anyone have a 3.5 7.8 bit that they could pass on or sell? Or know where I can get one? It will most likely be used just once. I could even mail it back in a small padded envelope.

The top of the ski has the drill bit size printed on it however it is very blurry it looks like it reads 3.5 7.8 ? Does this sound right? They are 120cm Atomic Race 6.



Thanks!

 

[mdf]

From Slidewright "The general rule on alpine ski drill bit sizes is 3.5mm for non-metal skis and 4.1 for metal. There are exceptions, such as a metal binding plate in a non-metal ski, carbon fiber top sheets, etc ."
That's where I got my bits, and they are great -- but at $17, it is a bit expensive for one time use.

 

[razie]

Mounting Drill Bits for Ski Bindings

These specialty drill bits are designed specifically for mounting ski bindings, built in stop ensures holes are drilled to the correct depth.

www.tognar.com

Quote: 3.5 x 7mm bit is for junior alpine skis.

Can you double check the 7.8 ? You can also measure the old holes, depth-wise

 

[razie]

What I used to do before buying the proper drill bits was an old woodworking trick: to get a 3.5 bit or the closest imperial and measure the right depth and use electrical tape to mark it and then drill carefully. Or you can buy proper drill bit stoppers at a hardware store.
Or find a friend with a drill press.

Then countersink it just a little with a big bit. Careful because the big bit likes to grab especially if drilling plastic plates

Word of advice: measure four times, drill once and when putting in the screws tighten slowly and keep checking the base to see if you're lifting the base - means the hole is too short and the screw is pushing wood out.

 

[eok]

...

Then countersink it just a little with a big bit. Careful because the big bit likes to grab especially if drilling plastic plates

...

I can't over-stress how dangerous it is to use a large bit in a drill to countersink composites like skis. The bit will always want to grab and drill a big hole. It can happen in less than a second & ruin your day. It's more doable on a drill press, but you have to clamp the ski down firmly with multiple clamps - otherwise the drill can literally pull the ski up when it grabs and drill a big hole.

However, sometimes I've been in a bind & only a big bit is handy, so...

When using a big bit to countersink, I use a sharp bit - without a drill - methodically spinning it by hand. Takes a long time but it's way safer because I get way more control. Dull large drills are pretty useless for this method.

Conical countersink bits work well & are pretty safe if you take it easy - and they're usually pretty cheap at most hardware stores.

 

[mdf]

by the time you get a bit and a stop collar and a countersink, you might as well just buy the real bit

 

[Dwight]

Hello

I got a set of kids skis and the bindings were mounted for a much much larger BSL. So I am going to move (remount) some bindings and thought I would get the proper drill bit.

Anyone have a 3.5 7.8 bit that they could pass on or sell? Or know where I can get one? It will most likely be used just once. I could even mail it back in a small padded envelope.

The top of the ski has the drill bit size printed on it however it is very blurry it looks like it reads 3.5 7.8 ? Does this sound right? They are 120cm Atomic Race 6.



Thanks!

I have extra bits, will check on sizes.

You using a paper template to remount?

 

[murphysf]

I have extra bits, will check on sizes.

You using a paper template to remount?

Yes will be using a paper template.

 

[cantunamunch]

What I used to do before buying the proper drill bits was an old woodworking trick: to get a 3.5 bit or the closest imperial

The likelihood of finding a metric bit in 3.5mm in the US is silly small; in imperial that bit size is difficult because it falls between 1/8" and 9/64". 1/8" will leave too much material and volcano the hole when he screws the screw in. 9/64" is both hard to find and removes too much material to form threads against the screw properly - especially on a short screw like the junior ones he'll be using.

 

[Dwight]

Yes will be using a paper template.

PM me your address.

 

[crgildart]

The likelihood of finding a metric bit in 3.5mm in the US is silly small; in imperial that bit size is difficult because it falls between 1/8" and 9/64". 1/8" will leave too much material and volcano the hole when he screws the screw in. 9/64" is both hard to find and removes too much material to form threads against the screw properly - especially on a short screw like the junior ones he'll be using.

Maybe so but I mounted and remouted at least 5 pairs of jr skis over the past 10 years using standard 'Murikan bits with wood block stops. Going a little smaller is fine unless they're racing downhill at USSA nationals.

 

[cantunamunch]

Going a little smaller is fine if OP knows to manage material bubbling up and the bindings not sitting flush to the ski. AFAICT, this is OPs first remount.

 

[oldschoolskier]

Use a #29 bit for the 3.5mm (its actually 3.45mm) and a #22 for the 4mm (actually 3.99mm).

The 29 you can most likely get at Lowes or Depot for drilling holes for a 8-32 tap. 22 is a little more difficult because easy access usually requires buying a set (Harbour Freight letter number set) or specialty store.

Alternative go the www.shars.com (specialty store for machinists) and you can likely buy whatever you want at low cost (less than $1.00 per bit).

 

[Dwight]

3.5x7 is being mailed.

 

[Dwight]

Use a #29 bit for the 3.5mm (its actually 3.45mm) and a #22 for the 4mm (actually 3.99mm).

The 29 you can most likely get at Lowes or Depot for drilling holes for a 8-32 tap. 22 is a little more difficult because easy access usually requires buying a set (Harbour Freight letter number set) or specialty store.

Alternative go the www.shars.com (specialty store for machinists) and you can likely buy whatever you want at low cost (less than $1.00 per bit).

Love this type of information.

Thank you.

 

[murphysf]

Mounting Drill Bits for Ski Bindings

These specialty drill bits are designed specifically for mounting ski bindings, built in stop ensures holes are drilled to the correct depth.

www.tognar.com

Quote: 3.5 x 7mm bit is for junior alpine skis.

Can you double check the 7.8 ? You can also measure the old holes, depth-wise

Yes are correct, the blurred digit is a 0 so the its a 3.5 7.0 bit!

 

[oldschoolskier]

For those metric disabled 7.0mm is is half way between 17/64 and 9/32.

 

[murphysf]

Big Thanks to Dwight he sent me a 3.5 7 bit and I got it in the mail today.

Bad news my project is going south a bit:

The template I downloaded from Binding Freedom is for an adult binding not a junior binding.

Second as I was lining up the binding to size it up to the template I printed out I depressed the brake and the metal brake popped out, not a big deal but the small plastic plate that hold the brake to piece the heel depresses got one of its little tabs broken off.

I'd like to finish the project but am not sure if I will be able to find that small plastic plate piece that holds the metal brake lever into the heel piece (not sure of the correct names for these parts). It may be cost prohibitive to buy a new set of bindings.

Anyone know where I can get the following:
1. Template for Salomon C305 jr kids binding? I heard its the same template as the current jr binding that replaced it. a set of jr bindings on the cheaper side?

2. The small black plastic plate piece with the two tabs that holds the metal brake arm into the heel piece?

3. An set of kids / jr bindings new or used at a "decent" price. My son is current set at a din of 2.5 but could increase a bit so I guess a jr binding that goes up to 4.5 or 5? I'd rather not drop $70 on a pair of new bindings, so I am looking for a way to salvage this project. Or maybe I just drop it and move on. If anyone know of a clearing place that might sell kids bindings please let me know, I quickly check L9 and the REI websites, will check steep and cheap.

Thanks!

 

[razie]

You don't need the template. Figure out where you want the bindings mounted and mark the location. Then clamp them in place and drill pilot holes in the ski, based on the actual holes in the binding. Then take them out and drill. This ,"method" is obviously not condoned by any manufacturer though

I don't know those specific bindings, but all bindings I know have forward pressure adjustment and the rear can slide back and forth a bit, so it should be able to take up any slack, if you measure a little off.

Or, better, take them to a shop - they should remount for like 20-30$. They may also fix that brake for you...

 

[murphysf]

You don't need the template. Figure out where you want the bindings mounted and mark the location. Then clamp them in place and drill pilot holes in the ski, based on the actual holes in the binding. Then take them out and drill. This ,"method" is obviously not condoned by any manufacturer though

I don't know those specific bindings, but all bindings I know have forward pressure adjustment and the rear can slide back and forth a bit, so it should be able to take up any slack, if you measure a little off.

Or, better, take them to a shop - they should remount for like 20-30$. They may also fix that brake for you...

thanks for the reply, I originally took them to a shop but the C305 fell off the list this year so they wouldn't remount them for me. I was willing to pay.