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putting on toplayer wax for daily temperature - technique ?

Don Canard

Booting up
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Joined
Feb 4, 2019
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37
Location
Catskills, NY
so I'm at the point of using BP88 for hot cleaning and as a base layer. Then I put on wax of the day for temps & snow conditions. E.g. today I put on ch6 because temps were supposed to be in the low 20s F with new snow in the northeast (US).

So when I do this, I refresh the base layer, let it cool for the better part of a day and then only scrape it. Then I crayoned on the ch6, ran the iron over it "lightly" (quickly, only enough to melt it since the crayoned layer wasn't thick) and then decided to melt some on since the toplayer didn't look substantial. I then let that cool, scraped and corked.

I haven't started using brushes yet. Yup, amateur, still learning.

Apart from that, is my sequencing of baselayer on, cool, scrape, toplayer on, cool, scrape, finish, roughly correct ? I'm guessing that as the toplayer is melted on, it's going to melt and mate (mix) with some of the baselayer, but that that's not a bad thing. I try to bound that by letting the base layer "set".
 

Primoz

Skiing the powder
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Nov 8, 2016
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Slovenia, Europe
Unless skis are new, or they haven't been waxed for long time, there's no need for base layer of BP88. But then again, I use BP88 as storage/transport wax. When I come home, and if I don't plan to go skiing next day again, my skis are waxed (yeah I know, overkill, but whole bunch of time on WC tour as serviceman leaves you with some issues... being anal about ski preparation is one of them :D ), which can also count as "base layer". So when I go skiing again, I scrap that storage wax off, and wax with right wax for the day (CH6 in your case). Never reheat that wax, as there's plenty (depending how long skis were stored) of dust and dirt on top of that wax, and you don't want that to get into the base. That's whole point of storage wax anyway. Just scrap that BP88 off, brush, melt wax for the day and iron it. Let it cool, scrap it off, and yes, brush. Brushing is good.
If I ski next day already, I just use proper wax for next day once back from this day skiing.
 

AtleB

Out on the slopes
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Jan 4, 2021
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427
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Norway
What du you mean when you say you "corked" the skis?

*Edit, I see now what you mean. I just never use a cork for that*
 
Last edited:

Tony S

I have a confusion to make ...
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Team Gathermeister
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Maine
so I'm at the point of using BP88 for hot cleaning and as a base layer. Then I put on wax of the day for temps & snow conditions. E.g. today I put on ch6 because temps were supposed to be in the low 20s F with new snow in the northeast (US).

So when I do this, I refresh the base layer, let it cool for the better part of a day and then only scrape it. Then I crayoned on the ch6, ran the iron over it "lightly" (quickly, only enough to melt it since the crayoned layer wasn't thick) and then decided to melt some on since the toplayer didn't look substantial. I then let that cool, scraped and corked.

I haven't started using brushes yet. Yup, amateur, still learning.

Apart from that, is my sequencing of baselayer on, cool, scrape, toplayer on, cool, scrape, finish, roughly correct ? I'm guessing that as the toplayer is melted on, it's going to melt and mate (mix) with some of the baselayer, but that that's not a bad thing. I try to bound that by letting the base layer "set".
I kind of suspect that your top layer is not going to give you what you want if you're applying it over base wax that hasn't been thoroughly brushed out of the structure. This is probably even more true when applying a hard top layer over a soft base layer, as in your example. As you ski, it's likely that, as the surface layers of wax quickly come off through abrasion, you're going to be left with only the base coat, with all the hard wax on the hill.

I'm neither a materials scientist nor a black belt technician, so this is speculation on my part, informed by experience and listening to people who are more knowledgeable.

I think if you're going to bother with layering waxes, at least one brush is really indispensable. If you only have one, maybe a stiff horse hair. If two, a fine steel or other metal brush, and a nylon polisher. I'm sure the opinionated will jump in with their ... well, opinions.

BTW, I love this brush, used lightly after scraping, for getting down into the structure.

 

hbear

Out on the slopes
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Joined
Aug 17, 2016
Posts
890
Base layer, cool and brush.
The top layer, cool and brush if using hot waxes.

I'd suggest not using BP88 for the base layer for your purpose. BP goes on a new ski or recently ground one....or storage.
You can hot wax a CH layer (e.g. CH8, or CH6, whatever depending on your regular temps at that part of the season) and only use a different temp if it's much warmer or colder....saves you some work.
If you aren't brushing the job isn't done and skis won't run even close as well to how they should.

Going to assume you aren't a racer and just recreational? If so, just pick a good all temp and be done.
 

oldschoolskier

Making fresh tracks
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Joined
Dec 6, 2015
Posts
4,229
Location
Ontario Canada
The simple answer about wax is you want enough on the ski that it dissolves or wears as you ski acting as a lubricant between base and snow. Along long with not to much so that it does act like glue or not enough that your based drag and slow you down. Finally the driving factor is how much can you get away with, that it lasts the day without have any negative effects.

This all comes down to personal preference and with someone like @Primoz who has experience, they follow a set pattern to ensure repeatable outcomes to match those needs.
 

SkiSpeed

Getting off the lift
Skier
Joined
Aug 17, 2017
Posts
156
Location
VT
so I'm at the point of using BP88 for hot cleaning and as a base layer. Then I put on wax of the day for temps & snow conditions. E.g. today I put on ch6 because temps were supposed to be in the low 20s F with new snow in the northeast (US).

So when I do this, I refresh the base layer, let it cool for the better part of a day and then only scrape it. Then I crayoned on the ch6, ran the iron over it "lightly" (quickly, only enough to melt it since the crayoned layer wasn't thick) and then decided to melt some on since the toplayer didn't look substantial. I then let that cool, scraped and corked.

I haven't started using brushes yet. Yup, amateur, still learning.

Apart from that, is my sequencing of baselayer on, cool, scrape, toplayer on, cool, scrape, finish, roughly correct ? I'm guessing that as the toplayer is melted on, it's going to melt and mate (mix) with some of the baselayer, but that that's not a bad thing. I try to bound that by letting the base layer "set".
Start using brushes. Plenty of waxing threads here will help you determine what to use but I would recommend a medium bronze and stiff nylon or horsehair brush for starters. Skis need wax, but they need extensive brushing to prep wax to maximize glide. Also it is good to put many cycles ( wax and brush) into the bases to set them up.
 

Zrxman01

Out on the slopes
Skier
Joined
Apr 25, 2017
Posts
405
Here is a good rundown for hand (or roto) brushing as excess wax is SLOW:
(If you can only afford a couple of brushes start with nylon and horsehair)

Get ALL the wax off - Tip to tail
  • Stainless Steel Brush – Used to mellow the base structure
  • Fine – Cold snow post base grind
  • Medium -Warmer snow post base grind
  • Brass Brush – Used before waxing to clean out the base further
  • Horse Hair - Does a great job removing wax and gives the base a matte surface.
  • Nylon (White or Black) Brush – Universal for brushing out wax – brush until no wax particles are visible.
  • Blue Nylon Brush used to polish to a high gloss final finish
 

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