Question about Binding re-screw with angle

[Skiattahoe]

My first post here.

I got my new ski recently. Because I’m quite bow legged, long long time ago an expert helped me installed a wedge under my old ski binding plate. So now I’m going to move that wedge from old ski to my new ski. I got the longer screws, But the question is, I don’t think so that the new longer screw can be secured into the existing hole of the new ski, just because the wedge has an angle 3, the new longer screw will be inserted into the existing hole with the same angle!!
How can I screw the ski?

Another question is I noticed the wedge was installed on my old ski with “thicker edge” at inside of the ski. The expert marked on my ski to let me know the right ski for each feet. Some of my friends told me to try the opposite, I will give it a try in the next season, but just not sure why they suggested that.

thanks!

 

[Philpug]

You had canting done. It used to be that doing the canting under the binding, which was pretty much the only option. Now we are doing the vast majority of this work to the boot and depending what boot you have (some are designed to be canted and are easier to do the work to than others). By doign the boot, it does not first, limit yourself to a specific left/right ski, but second, it will allow you to ski any ski without issue.

The 3 on on the wedge progably means that it is a 3 degree shim, which is on the significant side. You will want a screw that is also 3 millimeters longer IF you are going to bring the shims over to the new skis. If you are coming up to Reno any time soon, we could set some time for an assessment to see what is going on an d what you will need in your new set up.

 

[cantunamunch]

Another question is I noticed the wedge was installed on my old ski with “thicker edge” at inside of the ski. The expert marked on my ski to let me know the right ski for each feet. Some of my friends told me to try the opposite, I will give it a try in the next season, but just not sure why they suggested that.

thanks!

The intuitive way to solve the bowleggedness problem is to fill the air gap between your ski and the snow when your shin and foot feel "neutral"

The non-intuitive way to solve the bowleggedness problem is to give you the most pressure on the inside edges with the least knee tipping angle - because your knee doesn't want to go that way.

These two methods give directly opposite shim orientation results.

Best to get it evaluated and see who got it right - but my money is *not* on the gap filling method.

 

[ted]

Generally bow legged is over edged and the thick side out cant moves knee in reducing over edge.
But this isn’t always tolerated by everyone.

 

[Uncle-A]

I would listen to what @Philpug said in post #2. Having said that if you must DIY it, what I would be concerned with is the construction of the ski. If the ski has a metal top sheet you probably don't have to worry about the change in angle of the screw. If the ski doesn't have a metal top sheet you probably should fill the existing hole and drill and tap new holes at a new angle. Although the DIY option would not be my choice for anyone that is not good with tools.

 

[David]

I agree with Phil. I too am a 3° bowleg but mine were canted on the sole. I can ski on either ski and demo with no ussues. Even makes walking from the car easier.

 

[cem]

by having an assessment done and moving to having the cant angles put onto the boot it will open up a number of ski options which you can't current consider, it will make walking in the boot easier and mean you can demo skis or rent if you are travelling and only want to take your boots.... probably 80% + plus of the boots around today can have this done to them, i can't remember the last time i did an under binding cant job but i am going to guess more than 15 years ago