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Re-tuning a ski shop tune from 1/1 to 1/2

Jeronimo

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So I just learned about side wall pullers this week and now I have a new concern. Does putting a 3* side angle significantly reduce a skis life? Since you have to pull more sidewalk every sharpening. I’m starting to second guess my preference for a 1/3 tune now
 

KingGrump

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So I just learned about side wall pullers this week and now I have a new concern. Does putting a 3* side angle significantly reduce a skis life? Since you have to pull more sidewalk every sharpening. I’m starting to second guess my preference for a 1/3 tune now

Depends on how often you pull back the side wall and how long you keep your skis.
If you tune your skis every other day and keep your skis for 300 ski day, the no bueno.

All my skis over 75 mm underfoot are usually tuned with 1/3. Usually keep my skis for 80/100 ski day. Tuning every 5/10 days. My skis usually flex out before running out of edges. YMMV.
 

Jeronimo

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Depends on how often you pull back the side wall and how long you keep your skis.
If you tune your skis every other day and keep your skis for 300 ski day, the no bueno.

All my skis over 75 mm underfoot are usually tuned with 1/3. Usually keep my skis for 80/100 ski day. Tuning every 5/10 days. My skis usually flex out before running out of edges. YMMV.
I guess my instinctual reaction is to say that's not a lot of time. But now that I really think about it 100+ ski days is a lot of days...
 

Sibhusky

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I had 3° on my Rictors, just relegated to rock or early season skis at 293 days. But I wasn't switching back and forth from one angle to another. That's what will destroy your edge. There's still plenty of edge left, you just can tell there's not as much edge as newer skis.
 

François Pugh

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I have found a 3 degree lasts as long or almost as long as a 2 degree side tune. You are only removing from the top part of the edge when you change from 2 to 3 (88 to 87), not the part of the edge that contacts the snow. Once you have switched, it's the same amount every time you sharpen it. Some say it wears faster because it is 1 degree more acute. That wont make all that much difference.
 

KevinF

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The only pair of skis I ever had that "ran out of edge" was a pair that was only ever shop-tuned (i.e., before I learned to do it myself). Those shop machines take off far more than a diamond stone or hand file do.

Otherwise, the skis are trashed for other reasons -- bent, core shots, etc. -- long before I run out of edge.

FYI, I've always run 0.5 / 3.
 

Atomicman

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Yes, if...you really want a 2° file guide of some sort. A hardware store file will probably get the job done, but it'll probably be dulled by the end of the job or maybe part way through. Ski tuning files are harder. So, with the guide and the file, use a Sharpie felt tip marker to mark the edge you're working on. You want to remove just the steel to get all the ink off. After filing, a small sharpening stone in the guide will give a smooth final surface. Or, take the skis back to the shop and have them do the job right.

To use the file you want the file tang (preferably in a file handle) in your right hand if you push the file, or in your left hand if you pull the file. That's the way the teeth are angled. Do not scrub the file back and forth on the steel...that'll dull it quickly. Lift the file off the steel for the return stroke. Use moderate pressure when filing. Some sort of wire brush will clean the file...a toothbrush-size brass brush is great. If the file gets shiny areas, it's dull. Throw it away.
You should only be pulling the file.......
 

Atomicman

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Sidewall cutters only remove sidewall; they won't touch the edges.
What he means is not the edge, on many skis nowadays there is a titanal layer that sits on top of the edge that is exposed just above the ABS ( or below with ski base down)
 

Atomicman

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So I just learned about side wall pullers this week and now I have a new concern. Does putting a 3* side angle significantly reduce a skis life? Since you have to pull more sidewalk every sharpening. I’m starting to second guess my preference for a 1/3 tune now
Side edge daily maintenance is done with diamond stones, not a file. So you only MAY need to fool with the sidewall when filing the edge, which you should only have to do when completely resetting the side edge or if you sustain bad enough damage to have to file, but even then you shouldn't have to pull the sidewall again. . Once you pull it back keeping them sharp wiht a diamond stone or better yet, get a Razor Tune., you shouldn't have to touch the sidewall!

By the way all my skis have a 3 degree except for my FIS Slaloms which have a 4 Degree! Never had a ski not last........ever!
 

Zirbl

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What he means is not the edge, on many skis nowadays there is a titanal layer that sits on top of the edge that is exposed just above the ABS ( or below with ski base down)
Merci. Cleared up in the concurrent thread.
Once you pull it back keeping them sharp wiht a diamond stone or better yet, get a Razor Tune., you shouldn't have to touch the sidewall!

By the way all my skis have a 3 degree except for my FIS Slaloms which have a 4 Degree!
Are you getting away with diamond stones only on a 4 degree edge training SL, or are you just freeskiing them on snow?
 

Atomicman

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Merci. Cleared up in the concurrent thread.

Are you getting away with diamond stones only on a 4 degree edge training SL, or are you just freeskiing them on snow?
Not to set the edge but to maintain it. to initially set side edge I start with a panzer file 1 degree over my finished side edge bevel. So If I want a 3 degree, use a panzer w/ 4 degree guide. It's called backfiling. . Then use a bastard at 3 Degrees and then a 2nd cut at 3 degrees then go to a series of diamonds to polish. I like Swix non-chrome files

Maintaining only use diamond stones at your side edge bevel. So if 3 Degree use a 3 degree guide.
 

Zirbl

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Maintaining only use diamond stones at your side edge bevel. So if 3 Degree use a 3 degree guide.
This is what I do, and it's been fine, but snow has followed me since I started doing this in earnest and I haven't skied on anything harder than hardpack and haven't trained gates. There has been talk on here of requiring a metal file daily after training on ice, hence my interest in what's working for you in which conditions.

Thanks for the info on backfiling,
 

S.H.

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This is what I do, and it's been fine, but snow has followed me since I started doing this in earnest and I haven't skied on anything harder than hardpack and haven't trained gates. There has been talk on here of requiring a metal file daily after training on ice, hence my interest in what's working for you in which conditions.

Thanks for the info on backfiling,
when I was training seriously, if on ice or injected surfaces, I'd use a file after each session. If on hard or "normal" snow, sometimes just stones would be sufficient. There's a reason world cuppers have so many pairs of skis for a training session and rarely take multiple *runs* before touching the edges.

If you're on very hard/icy surfaces ... you're going to need to file. Do you *need* to do it every training session? No, but ... why start a training session on anything but a perfect ski?
 

Atomicman

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when I was training seriously, if on ice or injected surfaces, I'd use a file after each session. If on hard or "normal" snow, sometimes just stones would be sufficient. There's a reason world cuppers have so many pairs of skis for a training session and rarely take multiple *runs* before touching the edges.

If you're on very hard/icy surfaces ... you're going to need to file. Do you *need* to do it every training session? No, but ... why start a training session on anything but a perfect ski?
Agreed when on injected or ultra icy, but OP didn't really mention that! Or get a Razor Tune!;)
 
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Atomicman

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Merci. Cleared up in the concurrent thread.

Are you getting away with diamond stones only on a 4 degree edge training SL, or are you just freeskiing them on snow?
Training and freeskiing
 

Jeronimo

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Thanks for the confidence guys. Would you have any suggestions of where to go to start learning how to dress your edges at home? There a good youtube resource or place to read up on it? I'd like to be able to do this myself because A. I want to save some $ but mostly B. I don't trust the damn shops to not abuse my beloveds.
 

Philpug

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Thanks for the confidence guys. Would you have any suggestions of where to go to start learning how to dress your edges at home? There a good youtube resource or place to read up on it? I'd like to be able to do this myself because A. I want to save some $ but mostly B. I don't trust the damn shops to not abuse my beloveds.
 

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