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Spring Wax Technique

David

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I just put a spring wax on my skis since the weekend temps will be really warm. I'm also not having an aggressive stone grind structure put on for only a handful of weekends this year. But I started wondering if after scraping I should be doing anything different for warm wet snow vs mid winter cold snow. Should I use different brushes or techniques to get the smoothest glide instead of sticking in the slop?
 

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Glass Cranks
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I just put a spring wax on my skis since the weekend temps will be really warm. I'm also not having an aggressive stone grind structure put on for only a handful of weekends this year. But I started wondering if after scraping I should be doing anything different for warm wet snow vs mid winter cold snow. Should I use different brushes or techniques to get the smoothest glide instead of sticking in the slop?
I'm fully expecting to be flamed for this, but I will share my warm snow base prep strategy. Sandpaper. Use a wooden block, or some sort of known flat machine stock. You can go crazy, like 60 or 80 grit. But no matter what you use, you will absolutely need to commit to working your way back down to 400 grit. You will have LOTS of fuzz to massage out. You will need to brush and scrape in BOTH directions to remove fuzz. You will have to resaturate your bases. And scrape, and brush, and scrape, and brush.. If you start now, you might be ready by this weekend.
You will have the fastest, or in some cases, the ONLY gliding skis on the swamp.
 

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Glass Cranks
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If you're going to stick with what you got, I would probably commit to an additional 2 wax and scrape cycles with as much directional brushing as you can take.
 
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David

David

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I'm fully expecting to be flamed for this, but I will share my warm snow base prep strategy. Sandpaper. Use a wooden block, or some sort of known flat machine stock. You can go crazy, like 60 or 80 grit. But no matter what you use, you will absolutely need to commit to working your way back down to 400 grit. You will have LOTS of fuzz to massage out. You will need to brush and scrape in BOTH directions to remove fuzz. You will have to resaturate your bases. And scrape, and brush, and scrape, and brush.. If you start now, you might be ready by this weekend.
You will have the fastest, or in some cases, the ONLY gliding skis on the swamp.
Interesting. But won't that make my skis concave and then need to be stoneground again if it gets cold or in the spring?
 
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David

David

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If you're going to stick with what you got, I would probably commit to an additional 2 wax and scrape cycles with as much directional brushing as you can take.
I usually start with a medium brush, then soft and finish with a horse hair. Would you use them all or just the medium?
 

Doug Briggs

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Hot waxing and brushing will last all day plus some. I usually carry an old block of high flouro wax which I rub and cork in. As I don't like carrying a cork in a pocket, I'll usually just use my glove to rub in the rubbed on wax. It does pretty much the same thing which is heat it up and help it to adhere to the base. While I like to glide as much as the next guy, I'm not obsessive about being race fast.

I'll be reporting in on the Vola universal shop wax I've been using as things warm up. It is rated by air temp from 18° F up to 60° F. It has been running well on the new snow and at air temps in the teens.
 
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David

David

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Hot waxing and brushing will last all day plus some. I usually carry an old block of high flouro wax which I rub and cork in. As I don't like carrying a cork in a pocket, I'll usually just use my glove to rub in the rubbed on wax. It does pretty much the same thing which is heat it up and help it to adhere to the base. While I like to glide as much as the next guy, I'm not obsessive about being race fast.

I'll be reporting in on the Vola universal shop wax I've been using as things warm up. It is rated by air temp from 18° F up to 60° F. It has been running well on the new snow and at air temps in the teens.
Yah I'm not looking for speed either. Last Saturday my ski stopped dead in their tracks twice and I hit the snow forehead first both times and I still have a headache...
 

KingGrump

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Yah I'm not looking for speed either. Last Saturday my ski stopped dead in their tracks twice and I hit the snow forehead first both times and I still have a headache...

I usually ski well into May every season. With the exception pf last season's early closure. I iron on HF10. Worked out pretty well for me.
 
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David

David

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I usually ski well into May every season. With the exception pf last season's early closure. I iron on HF10. Worked out pretty well for me.
Do you do anything different in your scraping/brushing than you do with your cold snow wax?
 

KingGrump

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Do you do anything different in your scraping/brushing than you do with your cold snow wax?

No. Same routine.
The only thing I do different with HF10 is I crayon the wax on prior to ironing. That stuff is $$$.
 

Doug Briggs

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No. Same routine.
The only thing I do different with HF10 is I crayon the wax on prior to ironing. That stuff is $$$.

I'm not sure if KG means 'money' like works great or expensive. Probably both.

I agree, same routine. Hot wax finish work is always the same. Scrape as much as you can, then brush the rest out. It isn't what you can see that makes the wax work but the fact that it is there and the structure is plainly visible that makes the process a success. I like to use a copper brush and then nylon; mostly because that's what I have at home, but the copper allows me to get a really excess-free finish and the nylon is a nice last step apart from using a scotch-brite to remove any remaining dust. It is also important to remove wax from the edges and sidewalls.
 

Doug Briggs

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You still doing those light cross structures?
Mostly. Although my old Bents have a wiiiide thumbprint. Still pretty light, though. I need to talk to Peter about what he's doing for more aggressive spring structure. He is a wiz with the Scout and designing structures.
 

Doug Briggs

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Sweet - the one you did for me worked great from -5F in VT to 50F in Breck - though it struggled in Tahoe at end of season. It would be a good candidate for OP.



:thumb:
That is great to hear.

Our standard structure is the light diagonal. It is what I have on my race skis.
 

Sibhusky

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I'm convinced that structure is the key. I played with waxes for years every season, tweaking, changing skis at lunch time for fresh wax, etc. And at the end I think all I did every year was kill time fooling around trying different things until the snow was "cured". Because I'd think I found the right combination by the end of the season and I'd start with that the next year and it wouldn't work. The last few years I've just been keeping a good structure on the skis throughout the season using the SkiVisions tool each time I wax. Just a few passes, keeping an eye on where things are wearing. Skied yesterday on hardpack on the AM and then down the front later into the slop on skis with green wax (hard) with no issues. Was a bit worried about certain sections where there was shade and sun, but just blasted on through. Now, two weeks back on skis that are older (lots, with 250 more days on them) and structure maybe not as fresh along the edges, I was feeling some slight slowing on those areas, but not like I was suddenly hitting a rubber mat. Once again, hard wax (CH4 as a matter of fact - yes, the weather has caught me out here, warm far too soon). So, it's not that I've got the right wax on, by far! What's happened, I think, is that we've had sufficient freeze/thaw over the past two weeks that the fresh snow has gotten what I can only call "cured". And as I think back, it's been a few years since I've really hit that "over the handle bars" stuff hard. I used to take my skis in during the spring for a stone grind, but when I finally started keeping the structure fresh, the degree of the problem improved noticeably. (There was a year I had them give me a "coarse" structure, but that made the skis tough to turn and I hated it.) But whatever I'm doing with the Ski Visions tool seems to work well enough. Not perfect, but then being more conscious of which trails have what kind of snow based on aspect, sun, recent fresh snowfall, etc. and the concept of curing seems to have eliminated the issue for me. I was passing multiple people POLING on these flat stretches like I had a propeller pushing me. It was great fun. Lol!
 

Plai

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The last few years I've just been keeping a good structure on the skis throughout the season using the SkiVisions tool each time I wax. Just a few passes, keeping an eye on where things are wearing.
Got a picture of your structure?
 

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Glass Cranks
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Interesting. But won't that make my skis concave and then need to be stoneground again if it gets cold or in the spring?
Nope. Using a guide(block of wood or bar) rail to rail. Just scratching the ski, and then knocking down those scratches.
 

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Glass Cranks
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I usually start with a medium brush, then soft and finish with a horse hair. Would you use them all or just the medium?
Sure. I don't waste time with the horse hair until I'm finished though.
 

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