Yes, I bought atomic boots from them, but they didn't give me the tool till my second trip. I guess you have to askDid you buy atomic boots and they gave you the tool? I asked about the tool and they only mentioned you need special tool.
Yes, I bought atomic boots from them, but they didn't give me the tool till my second trip. I guess you have to askDid you buy atomic boots and they gave you the tool? I asked about the tool and they only mentioned you need special tool.
But, if you were to look at a pair of boots that have 200 days of skiing on them, they usually look like they want to be replaced. Things are usually pretty beat up by then.
This is my experience as a boot-fitter and what I've seen people do to their boots, not as a manufacturer. And to be clear- I am not recommending that once people hit the 200 day mark that they toss their boots and go buy new ones. It's just a rough average that people should use a gauge. For sure people can go longer, especially if they are easier on their gear. There's definitely a difference between how my mom skis (not necessarily a "mom joke" but it works either way here) and how I ski. She could get way more than 200 ski days out of a boot. For me, my boot is pretty ragged by then. Sure I could replace all of the buckles, grip pads, liners, and power straps and get more life out of the shells. But after doing that I'm about 80% of the cost into a new boot at that point, possibly even more expensive than a new boot in some cases. To be honest, I think most people just weigh the pros and cons of getting a new boot at that point.Seems like a bit of an "industry" answer.
Yep it's definitely in your interests to encourage boot replacement at 200 days and for the "holiday" skier it scarcely matters because they'll be distracted by new and shiny before 200 days wear over 20+ years. But you must have data on actual plastics wear and tear/degradation. I'd be disappointed in any boot manufacturer that didn't produce shells fit for 300 days/3 liners with a bit of user maintanance on buckles and wear pads etc.
But, if you lined up 1,000 different skiers and looked at their boots after 200 days, some would look very new and could go on for much, much longer while some would look absolutely thrashed and in need of immediate replacement. I would argue that "200 days" is a realistic average ski boot lifespan where you can certainly extend it the more you properly take care of your gear.
@onenerdykid @Philpug and anyone else who has comments, questions or suggestions:
I have a narrow heel. I skied in the Lange L10 Race for years in the narrow 97mm last. I liked its stiffness. I liked the ski tip pressure it created. But the toe box was way too narrow for my toes.
Last year I bought the Lange RS130 narrow 97mm last. As far as stiffness, the RS130 is a slipper compared to the L10 Race. So, I miss the stiffness somewhat. But I love, love, love the wider toe box on the RS130.
But what I really don't like about the RS130 is its more upright stance.
I want more forward lean.
But really, what I am seeking is more ski tip pressure.
Do you know what the forward lean was on the L10 Race?
Can the adjustable lean on the REDSTER TEAM ISSUE 130 adjust to the same forward lean of the L10 Race?
Better yet, does more forward lean actually result in more ski tip pressure?
What do you suggest?
My boot size is 29.5. Boot Sole Length is 336mm.
I am 5’ 11”, weigh 195-200 lbs. and my pant inseam is 32”
Will REDSTER TEAM ISSUE 130 be too wide in the 29.5 size?
... 200 ski days out of a boot. For me, my boot is pretty ragged by then. Sure I could replace all of the buckles, grip pads, liners, and power straps and get more life out of the shells. But after doing that I'm about 80% of the cost into a new boot at that point, possibly even more expensive than a new boot in some cases. To be honest, I think most people just weigh the pros and cons of getting a new boot at that point.
On the spare part front, we are definitely working to make this easier. You'd think it would be an easy thing to do, but it has its own set of unique challenges. But we do understand this and are making efforts to allow our spare parts to be more accessible.FWIW, this matches damn near exactly my experience with the last pair of boots that I thrashed. I managed to get about 300 days out of them, but they were pretty haggard for the last bit of that. The shells were probably usable—I suspect they'd lost some stiffness over time, but without doing an A/B test against a new pair, I couldn't be sure—but a couple of the buckles were no longer functioning at 100%, I had just about worn through the second set of toe/heel wear pads, and both liners had multiple wear spots where seams were failing or had failed. I probably could have gotten a new pair of liners and new toe/heel wear pads, but by the time I did that, I'd have been at least 80% of the way to the cost of a new pair of boots, plus I'd have needed to deal with trying to special-order replacement parts, which has (in my experience) often been a frustrating deal. It's far harder than it ought to be to get replacement parts as an end user for most ski equipment. The only exception I can think of is Black Diamond, where at least the ski poles are easy to find spare parts for.
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First thought: I have been swindled. Somebody snitched my boots and replaced them with replicas. These cant be real, I know how real boots feel like in the hand. They should be heavy. These are....lightweight...
Second thought: Hey, I can ski these right out of the box, no pressure points no nothing. I only need a bit of room at the toes, otherwise, they feel....well yeah, perfect!
Now onwards to the dreaded heat molding and other adjustments and we'll see.
The Atomic Ultra and XTD has been favorite among my friends.
Heat molding generally make the room in the boot. So double check the fit of the boot before molding.
The Atomic heat molding process is fairly benign compare to the Fischer process.
Also check binding compatibility for GW.
I thought the same when I handled them. Not gonna lie, I am a little skeptical of their durability. I hope I get as many days on them as I did my Dobermann Pros.
At this point I think I will be spending much more time in them going up than going down, so their lightweight and perceived fragility do not bother me very much. Time will tell if they are good for one boot quiver.
The stiffest ski I've been on with mine is the softest G9 (metal tip protectors and GripWalk-compatible bindings, not the cheater GS ski or the FIS ski which both require traditional DIN soles), which felt to be about the limit of effective use of the XTD; I could turn them, but I could feel the boot giving in at times.Thanks!
I plan to use them with Shifts so no problems with GW compatibility. Even if I decide to use them for lift skiing, I have Warden 13 on the AX and SRs, which are MNC. Not sure if I will want to drive anything stiffer than that in them, but who knows...
There is a mimic liner for the non-xtd ultra that would be a better choice.Can I use the mimic xtd liner in an older ultra boots? I feel the normal ultra is still stiffer and better for icy east coast, but I love the new liner
There is a mimic liner for the non-xtd ultra that would be a better choice.