Those are the standard Atomic built 22 CT 5.0 but just with different graphics. Heard they did a few different colours that year for some reason. Last year of that model as it’s now discontinued and replaced by the similar Mana 4 in 23.Saw these ct 5.0's 21/22 on some german site for cheap but I've never ever seen that colourway. Does anyone know this model?
I saw some guy on newschoolers talking about that on this little text it says that this one has 5mm less tail rocker and instead of "made in europa" it says "made in austria" not a big difference i guess but did they make another rocker profile on these although i don't think so?Those are the standard Atomic built 22 CT 5.0 but just with different graphics. Heard they did a few different colours that year for some reason. Last year of that model as it’s now discontinued and replaced by the similar Mana 4 in 23.
The previous few years, all Factions said “made in Europe” as they were sometimes made in Ukraine or Austrian plants but in 22, they moved to the Amer/Atomic plant which is in Austria so now they just say Austria usually.I saw some guy on newschoolers talking about that on this little text it says that this one has 5mm less tail rocker and instead of "made in europa" it says "made in austria" not a big difference i guess but did they make another rocker profile on these although i don't think so?
Agree with @anders_nor that those skis were pretty comfortable at or close to the CT line even for those used to more traditional mounts. The year before that ski had a -4cm “traditional” mount and it definitely wasn’t as fun or playful there. Faction now has a max range of 3cm between mounts as I think they learned that it wasn’t as fun that far back.Hi everyone. I wonder if anyone has any input. I got a pair of Candide 3.0 2019 for cheap, but they are mounted at the Candid line. I'm an old ex racer and freerider, and normally like my skis at the all mountain line. I can ski them fine as they are now, even in ankle deep snow, but I'm worried they will dive more when it gets a bit deeper. I also think they will behave quite different all over the mountain as well. I skied the old 4.0 122mm quite a bit a few years back and really liked that with a traditional mount. Should I re-mount the bindings? I can't make up my mind
Thanks for the input guys. I've only skied them twice so far. Once after lunch on a powder day (starting out on my Moment Governor 116mm), and the other day at my local hill with my son in 15cm of snow. They seemed ok, but just look "short" as I'm used to more ski in front of me. After your input, I´ll think I start out with just a new tune of the base and edges to really get a feel how they ski. I don't spinn much anymore do to knee injury a few years back, but I do like to pop of natural features and hit the odd big jump.
Lol at this line.I started on the Enforcers, and I hated my life.
Whoa…hold on here, let’s not get carried away shall we:much as I love my CTs they are no match for a true skinny stiff carving ski on hard snow.
Over the past couple weeks I skied the 1.0 for 10 days at 9 different northeast mountains in pretty much every type of condition. They excelled in all, with the biggest surprise being how well they handled 14+ inches of fresh and chopped pow at Sugarloaf and Sunday River. No float or stability issues whatsoever despite the -1.5 mount and 172 length.Whoa…hold on here, let’s not get carried away shall we:much as I love my CTs they are no match for a true skinny stiff carving ski on hard snow.
Since several of you mention the WRTs I happened to notice them at a base lodge ski shop and burst out laughing at how narrow, shaped and stiff they are.
Nice to see you’re finally getting some skiing in this year on those skis!Over the past couple weeks I skied the 1.0 for 10 days at 9 different northeast mountains in pretty much every type of condition. They excelled in all, with the biggest surprise being how well they handled 14+ inches of fresh and chopped pow at Sugarloaf and Sunday River. No float or stability issues whatsoever despite the -1.5 mount and 172 length.
The weakest link is true ice (you know, the greyish white stuff) but even then I didn't find them to be worse than other skis I've owned (including slalom). They easily made it down White Lighting at Sunday River (allegedly one of the steepest double d's in the Northeast) despite patches of boilerplate underneath scraped off corduroy. On steeps I feel more comfortable getting over the tips but maybe that's just a psychological thing since they aren't unstable at any stance or speed.
Since several of you mention the WRTs I happened to notice them at a base lodge ski shop and burst out laughing at how narrow, shaped and stiff they are. No doubt they cut like a Samurai sword on ice but if the conditions are that nasty I'd rather take the day off. Icy terrain makes up less than 10% of my typical day so I'm fine just feathering my edges on those brief patches until I hit the inevitable soft stuff that follows.
They were great in the bumps and trees regardless of the surface type, and held up well against the errant rocks and branch debris. Small jumps were a blast as well. They are effortless at most everything, except lugging them to and from the car. That's the only reason I'm glad I don't own the 2.0 or 3.0 as well.
How do they respond to terrain variables like jumps, bumps, whoop-de-doos, crud, etc.? Typically conditions change throughout the day or even during a single top to bottom run so I assume they must have some versatility. And do they carve on ice as if it's hardpack or do you still have to finesse those turns to keep the edges from slipping?![]()
This is how a proper good piste ski looks and feels like.