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The Never-Ending Faction Discussion

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GregK

GregK

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I got my two pair of 2021 CT's back from SKIMD tune shop and what a difference a good tune makes. I have the 1.0 and 3.0. Was on 5 different skis for the day at Loon NH on Friday in packed powder with some firm stuff underneath. All the superlatives they have been getting now apply to my skis. I am a Clyde, so I actually liked the 190 cm CT 3.0 the best. It handles my 240 lbs with ease and carves really well for such a wide ski, even on groomers. (not race skis carve, but for its class of ski). Felt really good in what crud I could find. A little heavy to pivot, but I had my bindings at -2.8cm back from CT line. I have moved them forward 1 cm for next outing. The CT 1.0's were an interesting ski for that particular day. I spent half the day on it and got it in ungroomed moguls as well as groomers. The tips now pull me into a turn (as they should) reasonably well and I can now make use of the entire edge grip on the ski. They are the longest length, 184cm, which for my size is border line short and actually makes them feel like I can toss them around with ease. They do feel like a park ski now. I have them mounted at -2.5cm from CT line. I also added a shim under my toe binding so I have zero binding delta. I wanted to get weight off the tips since they are about as short as I would want to go on that ski. They felt to me like a very good all mtn ski that could do anything I asked it to do. Its strengths are stability, good grip, a nice solid all around ski. About the only negative is at my weight, the narrow tips and tails don't provide much float and I did find in cut up chop they were "in the snow" and got more hung up pivoting them than the 3.0 skis.

Very happy with them now and look forward to skiing them a lot more.
Like every other “they are okay I guess” preliminary review on these, I knew something was up on the tune! The more you ski them, the more you will trust them abd like them even more.

I’d try -1.5ish cm back first on the CT 3.0 as that is a sweet spot on those skis it seems. Then try the -1cm to see if it’s better or worse for you.
 

EG-NJ

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Nice to see you’re finally getting some skiing in this year on those skis!
Put them at 1/3 and they will grip that nasty ice stuff even better.

So you don’t want the wider CT because they are harder to carry? Lol
CT 2.0 is just a hair heavier and the CT 3.0 is about the same weight or lighter so you have no excuses! ;)
Thanks. It was worth the wait and weight. My timing was fortunate in that even small resorts with 100% man-made conditions were surprisingly good. I started in the Poconos, then the Catskills, then the Eastern Townships, then upstate Maine.

Good thing you Northern neighbors have different school holiday weeks since we had zero midweek lift lines and inexpensive lodging the entire time. Averaging $45 per lift ticket and fresh pow were figurative and literal icing on the cakes. Plus I added 4 new mountains to my lifetime total of approximately 80 resorts.
 

JCF

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How do they respond to terrain variables like jumps, bumps, whoop-de-doos, crud, etc.? Typically conditions change throughout the day or even during a single top to bottom run so I assume they must have some versatility. And do they carve on ice as if it's hardpack or do you still have to finesse those turns to keep the edges from slipping?

To me the best thing about the 1.0 is that they smooth out terrain variables to provide a consistent ride no matter what. They kept luring me into crud and chop even when there were perfectly good groomers nearby because they were so much fun in there even at decent speeds.
Haven't used the WRTP's in bumps, or jumps, if you mean something other than going over a rise at speed. I don't know what a whoop-de-do is and not sure I want to try whatever that might be on them (though I did get pitched when I got cocky on what was almost a half-pipe set-up, but would call that more of a head-over-heels)

But in crud, they are awesome ! So solid and stable, and you can bury tip and then the tail deep and they will bring you around as tight and low as you want to go, then pop you out when you release them for another go round.
 
Thread Starter
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GregK

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How do they respond to terrain variables like jumps, bumps, whoop-de-doos, crud, etc.? Typically conditions change throughout the day or even during a single top to bottom run so I assume they must have some versatility. And do they carve on ice as if it's hardpack or do you still have to finesse those turns to keep the edges from slipping?

To me the best thing about the 1.0 is that they smooth out terrain variables to provide a consistent ride no matter what. They kept luring me into crud and chop even when there were perfectly good groomers nearby because they were so much fun in there even at decent speeds.
The 21 CT will be on another planet when it comes to crud performance, in variable snow, will feel much more balanced in the air and more playful than any carving ski.

A good carving ski will allow you to grip even hard snow or ice like it’s barely there in the same way a 21 CT goes over variable snow. My CT 1.0 are SHARP so find them shockingly good in firm snow when you commit to tipping them up. I’m always surprised how close they are grip that I only use my carvers on days where it’s super cold and firm all day. Most days I’d want to swap off any carver to the CT 1.0 when things get roughed up in the East(usually before noon). I’d Usually just cut out the middleman and ski the CT 1.0 all day.

Week 2 of my West Coast trip and have seen lots of instructors on Faction skis especially CT 2.0 and Mana 2 out here.
 

Tony Storaro

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How do they respond to terrain variables like jumps, bumps, whoop-de-doos, crud, etc.? Typically conditions change throughout the day or even during a single top to bottom run so I assume they must have some versatility. And do they carve on ice as if it's hardpack or do you still have to finesse those turns to keep the edges from slipping?

To me the best thing about the 1.0 is that they smooth out terrain variables to provide a consistent ride no matter what. They kept luring me into crud and chop even when there were perfectly good groomers nearby because they were so much fun in there even at decent speeds.

Oh c’mon…no need to compare the fun loving slightly goofy twin tip skis to a serious top-of-the-foodchain apex predator like WRTP on piste. It is just not fair. I love my CT 1.0 to bits and would happily ski them all season long but the WRTs simply ski circles around them on groomers. It is like comparing a dune buggy to an Aventador.
 

EG-NJ

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Haven't used the WRTP's in bumps, or jumps, if you mean something other than going over a rise at speed. I don't know what a whoop-de-do is and not sure I want to try whatever that might be on them (though I did get pitched when I got cocky on what was almost a half-pipe set-up, but would call that more of a head-over-heels)

But in crud, they are awesome ! So solid and stable, and you can bury tip and then the tail deep and they will bring you around as tight and low as you want to go, then pop you out when you release them for another go round.
Whoop-de-doos (at least as defined by my ski group) are the series of small but jolting ridges, dips and bumps typically formed on cat tracks and narrow trails winding through the woods. You usually have no option but to hit them dead on and absorb the jolts with your knees. Fun stuff.

Nice to hear that the Stoklis are good in crud despite the narrow waist. I assume they're best skied short so I'd be on the 162 with an insanely tight 13 radius. If a new pair ever pops up for what I paid for the 1.0 then I'm all in. But I'm not holding my breath.
 

Mendieta

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@
Whoop-de-doos (at least as defined by my ski group) are the series of small but jolting ridges, dips and bumps typically formed on cat tracks and narrow trails winding through the woods. You usually have no option but to hit them dead on and absorb the jolts with your knees. Fun stuff.

Nice to hear that the Stoklis are good in crud despite the narrow waist. I assume they're best skied short so I'd be on the 162 with an insanely tight 13 radius. If a new pair ever pops up for what I paid for the 1.0 then I'm all in. But I'm not holding my breath.

Wait, did you say Stokli and 200 dollars in he same sentence? :D

Yes, those also form in traverses, particularly in sketchy places where nobody wants to be off the path. Once I had to cross between two safe ridges, but over no-fall zone whoop de doos. That was unnerving. Shit-your-pants unnerving.


Crud: I was surprised how well the Rallies do on crud on piste when i bought them. Because there is a skied off base underneath, all you need to do is always be on your edges, and you cut through like butter.

Now, offpiste crud? Different story. Most of the time a CT will be my choice by far. At least my 1.0 for sure.
 

ski otter 2

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Oh c’mon…no need to compare the fun loving slightly goofy twin tip skis to a serious top-of-the-foodchain apex predator like WRTP on piste. It is just not fair. I love my CT 1.0 to bits and would happily ski them all season long but the WRTs simply ski circles around them on groomers. It is like comparing a dune buggy to an Aventador.
This is off, misleading. Please, bear with me.

The current WRT Pro, slightly softer flexing than the original first and second year version WRT
(as explained/confirmed by a Stockli rep at their latest demo here),
are really swell, unsurpassed, to me.

But they are not better than a top Atomic or Rossi or Head race room FIS SL 165 or 158.

And that WRT ski also is just very different but equivalent on at least soft snow groomers or Rocky Mountain packed powder piste
to the CT 1.0, dialed in, figured out. (And they are equivalent, to me, on mild off piste as well.)
(Hardpan ice may be a different matter, dunno. But C.T. himself is in Europe/France, not the Rockies.)

Yes, the two skis handle groomers differently. But, man, once one is dialed into what the CT 1.0 can really do,
they are very different but equivalent.

Man, one can just kill it on groomers with the 184/1.0 Faction CTs. Elite skiing. Just as much control, no limits.
I got my groove back today on them. Thanks again, @GregK.
 

Tony Storaro

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This is off, misleading. Please, bear with me.

The current WRT Pro, slightly softer flexing than the original first and second year version WRT
(as explained/confirmed by a Stockli rep at their latest demo here),
are really swell, unsurpassed, to me.

But they are not better than a top Atomic or Rossi or Head race room FIS SL 165 or 158.

And that WRT ski also is just very different but equivalent on at least soft snow groomers or Rocky Mountain packed powder piste
to the CT 1.0, dialed in, figured out. (And they are equivalent, to me, on mild off piste as well.)
(Hardpan ice may be a different matter, dunno. But C.T. himself is in Europe/France, not the Rockies.)

Yes, the two skis handle groomers differently. But, man, once one is dialed into what the CT 1.0 can really do,
they are very different but equivalent.

Man, one can just kill it on groomers with the 184/1.0 Faction CTs. Elite skiing. Just as much control, no limits.
I got my groove back today on them. Thanks again, @GregK.

:ogbiggrin: :ogbiggrin:

It is mindblowing how much I disagree with all this. Well except for the part that the WRTs are no FIS SL skis on which I am 100% with you. :ogbiggrin:

But I guess our definitions of ‘piste” and “groomers” are different so that’s alright.
 

ski otter 2

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Yeah, I can understand that. My opinion of the "seriousness" and latent ability of the C.T. 1.0 changed pretty fundamentally today,
at least for my profile, my location.

I'd signed into the Faction Forever thread again this evening, just to once more THANK @GregK for the gift of this 1.0 ski.

Since I came back from injury, I've alternated skis, just looking to find my groove again. Including on FIS race skis, Bode 78 skis, and the 1.0.

I got the 1.0 C.T. Faction figured out to a new level today on the packed powder snow here at Copper Mountain,
mostly on soft snow groomers here in the Rockies, but also mild off piste. Wow.
Thank you, @GregK !

Yes, one can ski these as a playful, "fun loving slightly goofy twin tip," but don't let this fool you:
at heart, this 1.0 is also a very serious, take no prisoners, "life or death" ski:
just watch what Candide is doing on that ski - and his other versions - on piste, mild off piste, jumps, trees,
and huge mountain extreme skiing - world champion level rides.

I never got the 2.0, and the 4.0 and 5.0 get tossed too much for me when not straight-lined, at least when I demoed them, and didn't figure them out.

I got both 184 and 192 3.0s, and it seems I fall in between in sizing for this ski: if only there were a 3.0 that was 188, I'd be in pig heaven!

But on the 1.0 C.T./184, man, pure gold. I will ski these for as long as they - or I - hold up, more than likely, God willing.
Just as I hope to on my FIS skis also. My way of skiing these 1.0s has changed, or at least I found a different gear.

(As one option, one can ski these 1.0s at least as safely and dependably at speed, pure fun, as one can a "serious" FIS GS or Super G ski,
woman's versions in my case. At my age, this is no small feat. And it's mostly the ski, in this case, figuring out what it can do.)

Apologies, but.... In my case, it isn't so much that one has to lay it over more, or make an extra effort, to get the edges to set more effectively;
it's more that one has to commit to moving downhill or into the fall line more, while falling, as one would with a "serious" ski at speed;
or commit to being more at right angles to the slope, however steep; anticipating with confidence, as one might with a GS race ski maybe; and let the ski do the work, with its great stability, finally more dialed in - at least in my case.

:)
 
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Tony Storaro

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Yeah, I can understand that. My opinion of the "seriousness" and latent ability of the C.T. 1.0 changed pretty fundamentally today,
at least for my profile, my location.

I'd signed into the Faction Forever thread again this evening, just to once more THANK @GregK for the gift of this 1.0 ski.

Since I came back from injury, I've alternated skis, just looking to find my groove again. Including on FIS race skis, Bode 78 skis, and the 1.0.

I got the 1.0 C.T. Faction figured out to a new level today on the packed powder snow here at Copper Mountain,
mostly on soft snow groomers here in the Rockies, but also mild off piste. Wow.
Thank you, @GregK !

Yes, one can ski these as a playful, "fun loving slightly goofy twin tip," but don't let this fool you:
at heart, this 1.0 is also a very serious, take no prisoners, "life or death" ski:
just watch what Candide is doing on that ski - and his other versions - on piste, mild off piste, jumps, trees,
and huge mountain extreme skiing - world champion level rides.

I never got the 2.0, and the 4.0 and 5.0 get tossed too much for me when not straight-lined, at least when I demoed them, and didn't figure them out.

I got both 184 and 192 3.0s, and it seems I fall in between in sizing for this ski: if only there were a 3.0 that was 188, I'd be in pig heaven!

But on the 1.0 C.T./184, man, pure gold. I will ski these for as long as they - or I - hold up, more than likely, God willing.
Just as I hope to on my FIS skis also. My way of skiing these 1.0s has changed, or at least I found a different gear.

(As one option, one can ski these 1.0s at least as safely and dependably at speed, pure fun, as one can a "serious" FIS GS or Super G ski,
woman's versions in my case. At my age, this is no small feat. And it's mostly the ski, in this case, figuring out what it can do.)

Apologies, but.... In my case, it isn't so much that one has to lay it over more, or make an extra effort, to get the edges to set more effectively;
it's more that one has to commit to moving downhill or into the fall line more, while falling, as one would with a "serious" ski at speed;
or commit to being more at right angles to the slope, however steep; anticipating with confidence, as one might with a GS race ski maybe; and let the ski do the work, with its great stability, finally more dialed in - at least in my case.

:)

Yeah, the 1.0 are excellent ski no doubt about that. Need to take them out for a spin these days. I am getting too addicted to FIS SL and after them anything over 70mm feels bland, slow and lifeless to me.
 
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GregK

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Wow, someone @ski otter 2 must have had a great day and perfect ski for those conditions that make you really fall in love with a ski!!!

Agree with @Tony Storaro that skis like the WRT Pro are definitely more like a precise race car in comparison to a CT 1.0 but I’d compare it more to a spec’d rally car. Sure, it won’t be as good on flat pavement but it loves rough gravel and doesn’t mind being in the air!
The versatility is what really impresses me about the CT line-it never feels out of place regardless of conditions.

Yesterday at Kicking Horse with the 183cm CT 2.0, you’d start with steep bowls with moguls then hit a groomed section run at the bottom for high speed carves. Then spot some fun looking glades to the side of the run for 500 yards, back onto groomers staying with those on carvers and than you spot 750’ vert mogul run under the gondola finishing with more groomers near the base. Then go back up and do it again!
My lighter, narrower 183cm CT 1.0 would have been even easier yesterday in most of the terrain but had there been some new snow, the CT 2.0 or even CT 3.0 would have been the better choice. Whatever the choice that day, 2 turns and I’d be comfortable with that ski all day!

edit-forgot to mention about the CT 3.0 length comment. I felt the 184cm version was always super playful and fun but not as stable as I wanted. The 190cm was SUPER stable in comparison and almost like the Moment Wildcat in that it wasn’t super fun till you were flying. After spending more time on the narrower CT skis with their tunes perfected, when I went on my 184cm CT 3.0 they felt “too loose” compared to the others. Sure enough they were a hair base high still underfoot and once ground flat, I have way more stability and confidence on them. Seem way better in crud and on flat groomers. Once those were perfected, the 190cm seemed too locked in and was able to file out some high edge spots underfoot I must have missed. Now they feel much more compliant at lower speeds and very stable at high speeds.
Having all of these similar skis makes it easier to spot when “something feels off” on them. Know the Blackops 118 tune is perfect too now as there’s no learning curve at all on those either.
 
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Mendieta

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Yeah, the 1.0 are excellent ski no doubt about that. Need to take them out for a spin these days. I am getting too addicted to FIS SL and after them anything over 70mm feels bland, slow and lifeless to me.

Yes, I don't care for groomers but I like a real carving ski in my quiver to make some clean turns now and then. Or do drills. I think there is a big difference between carving , and edging. Edging is a much more general skill of putting the skis on edge, while carving is a very specific edging technique where the tails follow the tips cleanly. The tracks look pencil thin behind the skier. This is really, really hard to do on wider all mountain / big mountain skis. I see people (including myself) using their edges on wider skis on groomers, particularly softer groomers, but the turns are a combination of carving and skidding. I love my CT 1.0 and it's the most versatile, fun ski in my quiver for the conditions I find here in Tahoe, most of the time. But I can't say that "it carves well". I can say though that it can be fun on groomers.

My two final kicks on the dead horse!
:roflmao:
 

ScottB

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:ogbiggrin: :ogbiggrin:

It is mindblowing how much I disagree with all this. Well except for the part that the WRTs are no FIS SL skis on which I am 100% with you. :ogbiggrin:

But I guess our definitions of ‘piste” and “groomers” are different so that’s alright.

I would come at this from a different angle. I would look at the interpretation of this statement: "And that WRT ski also is just very different but equivalent on at least soft snow groomers or Rocky Mountain packed powder piste
to the CT 1.0, dialed in, figured out. (And they are equivalent, to me, on mild off piste as well.)"


I can agree with this if equivalent means you can ski them at similar speeds with similar levels of stability, performance, and fun. Both can perform at very high levels, but with different behaviors.

Another thing to pass along, maybe more emphasize, since I have posted about it. The 21 CT's are very high performance and VERY sensitive to tunes being off. They need a flat base and consistent bevels along their lengths to deliver that high performance level. I was shocked by how great my skis performed post SKIMD tune. I have experienced this before from his tunes, its especially common with race skis, noodle skis not so much, although I don't own a noodle ski for long, just not my style.
 

ScottB

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edit-forgot to mention about the CT 3.0 length comment. I felt the 184cm version was always super playful and fun but not as stable as I wanted. The 190cm was SUPER stable in comparison and almost like the Moment Wildcat in that it wasn’t super fun till you were flying. After spending more time on the narrower CT skis with their tunes perfected, when I went on my 184cm CT 3.0 they felt “too loose” compared to the others. Sure enough they were a hair base high still underfoot and once ground flat, I have way more stability and confidence on them. Seem way better in crud and on flat groomers. Once those were perfected, the 190cm seemed too locked in and was able to file out some high edge spots underfoot I must have missed. Now they feel much more compliant at lower speeds and very stable at high speeds.
Having all of these similar skis makes it easier to spot when “something feels off” on them. Know the Blackops 118 tune is perfect too now as there’s no learning curve at all on those either.

I skied the 190 Moment Bibby Pro and the 190 CT 3.0 almost back to back and it was eye opening the differences. Conditions were semi-firm packed powder, not fresh soft snow. I have always felt the Bibby was an incredible ski. Well The CT 3.0, expertly tuned to .75/3.0, was just as stable, more responsive, much better carving, pivoted very similar, and skied like it was lighter than the Bibby. I weighed them and it was a couple hundred grams heavier. The only thing the Bibby did better was feel more chargy and absorb terrain better at high speeds. The CT turned much easier at slow speeds, too. I almost feel like having SKIMD retune the Bibby again due to the differences. I have no feedback on crud performance, other than the Bibby did very well in Utah and Steamboat last month, and I did not have the CT 3.0 with me to compare.

The CT's have a lot of edge contact length along with high torsional stiffness, which really helps the edging or carving performance of the skis, as compared to a much more rockered ski like the Bibby. IF the edges aren't tuned very well, you feel it.
 
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GregK

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I skied the 190 Moment Bibby Pro and the 190 CT 3.0 almost back to back and it was eye opening the differences. Conditions were semi-firm packed powder, not fresh soft snow. I have always felt the Bibby was an incredible ski. Well The CT 3.0, expertly tuned to .75/3.0, was just as stable, more responsive, much better carving, pivoted very similar, and skied like it was lighter than the Bibby. I weighed them and it was a couple hundred grams heavier. The only thing the Bibby did better was feel more chargy and absorb terrain better at high speeds. The CT turned much easier at slow speeds, too. I almost feel like having SKIMD retune the Bibby again due to the differences. I have no feedback on crud performance, other than the Bibby did very well in Utah and Steamboat last month, and I did not have the CT 3.0 with me to compare.

The CT's have a lot of edge contact length along with high torsional stiffness, which really helps the edging or carving performance of the skis, as compared to a much more rockered ski like the Bibby. IF the edges aren't tuned very well, you feel it.
Would agree with all of this! Bibby/Latest Wildcats forte is going to be straight line stability and ease through crud. Find the tip shape, long radius and softer tips/tails(the only area they aren’t stiffer than the CT 3.0) cuts through variable snow very easily and makes it seem like you are actually skiing much slower than you are.

CT 3.0 will definitely be a more carvy ski with much longer effective edge and more fun at lower speeds. Bibby/Wildcat will never have the edge grip of a CT regardless of tune due to their shape and the fact that they don’t love when sharp above their contact points. Their looser feel is their appeal and when things are soft, they are a great ski. The CT 3.0 will always have more versatility when things are firmer.

My CT 2.0 continue to take a beating in low coverage areas like Lake Louise and Sunshine right now. They will definitely need a grind after this trip to reset the bases and base edges again. Have to hit them daily with diamond stones with all the rock hits and got the files out today on the side edges. No deep shots to the bases yet thankfully.
 

EG-NJ

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Would agree with all of this! Bibby/Latest Wildcats forte is going to be straight line stability and ease through crud. Find the tip shape, long radius and softer tips/tails(the only area they aren’t stiffer than the CT 3.0) cuts through variable snow very easily and makes it seem like you are actually skiing much slower than you are.

CT 3.0 will definitely be a more carvy ski with much longer effective edge and more fun at lower speeds. Bibby/Wildcat will never have the edge grip of a CT regardless of tune due to their shape and the fact that they don’t love when sharp above their contact points. Their looser feel is their appeal and when things are soft, they are a great ski. The CT 3.0 will always have more versatility when things are firmer.

My CT 2.0 continue to take a beating in low coverage areas like Lake Louise and Sunshine right now. They will definitely need a grind after this trip to reset the bases and base edges again. Have to hit them daily with diamond stones with all the rock hits and got the files out today on the side edges. No deep shots to the bases yet thankfully.
Sounds like those boulders in Lake Louise's Rock Garden are calling to you like Sirens from the Odyssey. They sure lured me in when I was there, but it still was worth the nicks and gouges.
 

EG-NJ

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Yes, I don't care for groomers but I like a real carving ski in my quiver to make some clean turns now and then. Or do drills. I think there is a big difference between carving , and edging. Edging is a much more general skill of putting the skis on edge, while carving is a very specific edging technique where the tails follow the tips cleanly. The tracks look pencil thin behind the skier. This is really, really hard to do on wider all mountain / big mountain skis. I see people (including myself) using their edges on wider skis on groomers, particularly softer groomers, but the turns are a combination of carving and skidding. I love my CT 1.0 and it's the most versatile, fun ski in my quiver for the conditions I find here in Tahoe, most of the time. But I can't say that "it carves well". I can say though that it can be fun on groomers.

My two final kicks on the dead horse!
:roflmao:
Yes, you note an important distinction and many of today's rocker profiles and shapes tend to favor edging over carving. But I'm fine with that since a ski like the 1.0 is a Swiss army knife of turn shapes and techniques while true carvers are more specific and perhaps a bit limited overall, especially in varying conditions that are more typical than not during an average day on the slopes.
 

ski otter 2

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Front Range, Colorado
To me, the C.T. 1.0 184 can do both. It took me a good while to figure out how to carve on the 1.0 in a way it actually likes, in a way that's really dialed in to that ski's flex and strengths on edge, and not just by making SuperG turns on it; but now, with that slightly modified technique - and attitude - it tracks as it carves - in the same groove, no slipping. And it will do this in a versatile way on a greater variety of slopes and conditions than a standard race ski.

For me, it was a breakthrough to get to this point on the 1.0. As a bonus, the ski becomes more stable at higher speed, as one option: making turns as tight as GS turns and tighter, but also turns between that and SuperG. The only other ski I can think of that likes that much speed that easily, with that stability carving (that is not an FIS GS or SG ski) is the Rossi Black Ops Sender Squad 112/192 - a really huge, heavy ski that's super stable also, comparably. (Probably that Dynastar M Pro 105 ski will do something similar, but I've never been on it, or wanted to.)

A strange or quirky thing about this is that the Faction C.T. 3.0 184 is about the only ski I still own that has a definite speed limit one has to take into account constantly, if carrying a certain amount of speed. (For me, at least, better to go at more modest speeds on this 3.0, and just enjoy that it's dialed in that way - enjoy smelling the roses, so to speak.)
 
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Thread Starter
TS
GregK

GregK

Skiing the powder
Skier
Joined
Mar 21, 2017
Posts
4,018
Location
Ontario, Canada
Sounds like those boulders in Lake Louise's Rock Garden are calling to you like Sirens from the Odyssey. They sure lured me in when I was there, but it still was worth the nicks and gouges.
There’s currently a “minimal conditions” sign at the entrance to that run and I laugh every time I pass it.
Skiing with a buddy who had his youngest almost fall down into a 20’ unmarked hole on that run last year. Caught him my his coat hood before he dropped into it!
 

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