Tire sizing question

[Andy Mink]

All other things being equal (same tire, same construction) how much difference does going from a 2.6 wide tire to a 2.4 wide tire make? This would be for a 29er. I bring this up because I'd like to go with a Maxxis DHR II to replace the stock Rekon but I'm having a hard time finding one in the construction I want in the stock 29x2.6 size. I hardly think I'm at the point of appreciating tiny nuances in the sport yet, and .2" inches seems pretty small to me. I have plenty of rubber on the Rekon so I'm in no hurry to replace it; I have time to wait for 2.6 to come back into stock in my preferred construction at my favorite places.

 

[Primoz]

I would say wider is better to certain size. Even for xc noone is running 1.9 tires anymore, but everything has it's limits, and for me plus size tires are pretty much as stupid as it can get. People pay crazy amounts of money for top of the line suspension, with millions of settings (yes I know, noone cares about millions of settings, but about kashima look on sliders, and for 99% of people, that's reason to go with Factory and not Performance models on Fox), just to remove all these suspension setup possibilities with bouncy plus size tires, which negate all suspension adjustments with it's bouciness. Might feel cool, but certainly doesn't ride as good as properly setup bike. So my suggestion, drop 2.6 and go for normal tires and set up suspension right. That little benefit that plus tires might have, and much more can be achieved with proper suspension setup.

 

[cantunamunch]

1.9 are now 'gravel'

 

[Smear]

For Maxxis 2.4/2.5 vs 2.6 is not just about the width, it's a different construction. The bigger dimension 2.6 are lighter, thinner casing and smaller knobs and weigh less despite beeing bigger with more volume. DH/enduro racers are typically on the 2.4/2.5 version. The 2.6 version less good for going fast but more comfort and perhaps better traction in a low speed, low pressure setting. Probably faster rolling too. My hardtail came with 2.6 and the FS came with 2.4/2.5. I like both.

 

[Tom K.]

For me, 2.4 is the sweet spot, proven to myself numerous times.

However, when I venture to rocky places like Moab, I absolutely love a 2.6 because I can run a bit less pressure, and that helps in the rocks, both in terms of comfort and success on big rocky "moves".

IIRC you're kind of new to this, riding an e-bike, and wanting to start venturing into tougher, rockier terrain (based on your recent pics), so, by a nose, I'd say stick with 2.6.

Note that Maxxis has a huge variety of tire casings available for each tire: https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blogs/worldwide-cyclery-blog/which-maxxis-tire-is-right-for-you. IMO I'd go EXO or EXO+ for rocky mtb service. No lighter. Most of my friends that ride Maxxis just buy EXO to avoid analysis paralysis.

Also worthy of consideration: Bontrager XR4 in 2.4 or 2.6 -- personal favorites of mine FWIW. Also available in heavier, tougher SE4 version.

 

[Andy Mink]

IIRC you're kind of new to this, riding an e-bike, and wanting to start venturing into tougher, rockier terrain (based on your recent pics),

This is accurate. I'd definitely be looking at the EXO/EXO+ casing since the rocky sections are sharp and my line isn't always spot on. The back tire does take a lot of sidewall hits. Since I'm on an emtb the weight is not much of a concern. BTW, the Worldwide Cyclery videos are great and a source of much info and entertainment lately.

 

[snwbrdr]

Weight... the 2.4 will of course be lighter, but depending on terrain and tire pressure, grip may be different. the 2.6" may have more lugs in the tread pattern to get it to the 2.6" contact patch.

 

[firebanex]

For Maxxis 2.4/2.5 vs 2.6 is not just about the width, it's a different construction. The bigger dimension 2.6 are lighter, thinner casing and smaller knobs and weigh less despite beeing bigger with more volume. DH/enduro racers are typically on the 2.4/2.5 version. The 2.6 version less good for going fast but more comfort and perhaps better traction in a low speed, low pressure setting.

This is why I've stuck with 2.6 front and 2.4 rear on my bike. I really hate mis-matching things in general but this seems to give me better grip for steering in the front and more speed from the rear.

 

[Slim]

@Andy Mink , EXO is a quite lightweight casing. In Reno I would expect a lot of rocks? Do you have that decomposed granite that we read about around Lake Tahoe?
If that is true, and you are riding an E-bike, than I would go for a tougher casing AND a grippier tire. DHR II is a good choice, but there are many more. It’s not like skis, you can be very happy on many models.

Have you checked out the Assegai? Best cornering grip front tire out there.
Also, don’t ignore Specialized, WTB and Schwalbe. They have some very good tires for that sort of application.
WTB Vigilante’s in particular are available in a wide range of sizes and casing combo’s.

And yes, there is a noticeable difference between 2.4 and 2.6“ tires, but that doesn’t mean you can’t easily adapt, or mix and match.
Still I prefer bigger tires, for the reasons @Smear mentions:
More grip over uneven terrain, off camber and rooty stuff. Gives a calmer ride. As long as you pick a tough enough casing, perhaps adding an insert like Tannus Tubeless or Cushcore, control and squirm at high speeds will be fine.

 

[AmyPJ]

I would steer you towards bigger and beefier, too, considering you are on an e-bike and like to catch some air. Bontrager/Trek only put their XR5 (their biggest, beefiest tire) on their e-bikes for a reason.

 

[Slim]

To clarify a bit:
Bontrager’s XR series are their lightest weight casing, but the 5 model is their most aggressive tread design.
Trek should spec more SE casing tires on bikes in the trail and E-bike categories.

Even the SE casing is still on the lighter, thinnner side of things.(maybe a tiny bit tougher than Maxxis EXO+, similar to Speciaizeld Grid Trail casings). SE4 is a nice step up in traction from a Recon, and runs pretty true to 2.6” size. It can make a nice rear tire, but no where near the cornering traction of a Minion, Butcher, Vigilante etc.

 

[Philpug]

I would steer you towards bigger and beefier, too, considering you are on an e-bike and like to catch some air. Bontrager/Trek only put their XR5 (their biggest, beefiest tire) on their e-bikes for a reason.

I will be looking closely at these when I go to replace my tires next year.

 

[cantunamunch]

perhaps adding an insert like Tannus Tubeless or Cushcore, control and squirm at high speeds will be fine.

 

[AmyPJ]

I will be looking closely at these when I go to replace my tires next year.

We've had zero issues on our Bonty XR4s. Tread holds up, we bash them through rock gardens and Bryce hits a few kickers any chance he can get. I run them at pretty low pressure and they hold up just fine.

 

[Slim]

This is accurate. I'd definitely be looking at the EXO/EXO+ casing since the rocky sections are sharp and my line isn't always spot on. The back tire does take a lot of sidewall hits. Since I'm on an emtb the weight is not much of a concern. BTW, the Worldwide Cyclery videos are great and a source of much info and entertainment lately.

EXO is a very lightweight, unstable casing, best suited to smooth terrain, smooth riders, and lightweight.
EXO+ adds a bit of puncture protection to the tread area, but not much more.

In short, the situations you describe, do NOT suit EXO or EXOc casings.

The problem with Maxxis is, the next step up is Double down casing, which is very beefy and heavy.

Specialized Grid trail, Schwalbe Super Trail are better for the rear for that. Even better would be WTB tough casing, not light, but a bit more supple than things like Doubledown and Max Gravity casings

 

[Slim]

@Andy Mink , reading your comment above, I would suggest sticking with 2.6” for the rear. Not because of any particular thing about ride quality or such, but for longevity.
The wider the tire is relative to the rim, the more the tread curves amour de the sides. This protects the sidewall of the tire. A narrower tire on a wider rim (even Maxxis WT designs) has more sidewall sticking out. In the rear, where you can’t quite see where it ends up, this can lead to more damage.

For this reason I try and run narrower rims in the rear than front.