Tune Your Waxing Irons!

[pchewn]

I would think that the desired goal of a flat iron meeting a flat ski base is much more affected by the camber of the ski than the curvature of the iron. I'm willing to bet that a ski curves more in 7" of length than an iron does along its 7" length.

 

[Jacques]

Is anyone else reading this thread really proud that skiing doesn't have custom-cast heavy iron aftermarket baseplates for our wax irons?

#atleastwe'renotaudio

Yea, although my newer T-8 looks like the plate is thicker, really it is quite hollow.
I was also a bit surprised at how edge high it was.
My older one was much better finished.
I'm sure many irons are made flat, but the lesson is to make sure.

 

[Jacques]

Thank you for the post!

You're welcome.

 

[Jacques]

I would think that the desired goal of a flat iron meeting a flat ski base is much more affected by the camber of the ski than the curvature of the iron. I'm willing to bet that a ski curves more in 7" of length than an iron does along its 7" length.

Some truth to that. Still, the iron should be flat and not edge high.
A bit edge low is not a problem as long as the plate is flat along its curve. It's good to have all edges smoothly rounded to an extent.
That's why I use my iron sideways. It's also better that way with super fat skis.

 

[Philpug]

I am not sure if it was mentioned. When waxing ALWAYS go the same direction with the iron, do not twist and rotate it along the base, that one of the ways you get burs in the iron that can scratch and melt the bases.

 

[Jacques]

I am not sure if it was mentioned. When waxing ALWAYS go the same direction with the iron, do not twist and rotate it along the base, that one of the ways you get burs in the iron that can scratch and melt the bases.

Truth ^
It's waxing a ski with burs on the edges that will mess up the iron base. Even though I don't do that, I still from time to time sand down the irons plate.
Here is a short video of a base with minor scratches up base from a bad iron.

 

[James]

Why are people waxing skis with burrs on the edges? Those burrs will have more influence then your wax unless you just ski powder.

Which direction you go with iron = doesn’t matter.
More voodo ski tuning ideas.

Maybe it matters first run if you’re not going to scrape it or use paper towel method.

Irons can be too flat. Or, you need to put dimples on the base. I’ve used one where the stiction was incredible it was so flat.

 

[crgildart]

I am not sure if it was mentioned. When waxing ALWAYS go the same direction with the iron, do not twist and rotate it along the base, that one of the ways you get burs in the iron that can scratch and melt the bases.

Why wouldn't you polish the edges and make sure there are no hanging burrs BEFORE waxing? It's a much bigger hassle to try to smooth them with wax in play.. gunks up your files and stones..

 

[Jacques]

Why are people waxing skis with burrs on the edges? Those burrs will have more influence then your wax unless you just ski powder.

Which direction you go with iron = doesn’t matter.
More voodo ski tuning ideas.

Maybe it matters first run if you’re not going to scrape it or use paper towel method.

Irons can be too flat. Or, you need to put dimples on the base. I’ve used one where the stiction was incredible it was so great.

Exactly. I talk about that in my video where I sand down the iron.
People do it because they don't know any better.
Everyone starts from scratch, so that's why I did my best to share some advice.

 

[oldschoolskier]

Is anyone else reading this thread really proud that skiing doesn't have custom-cast heavy iron aftermarket baseplates for our wax irons?

#atleastwe'renotaudio

Considering the price of the iron, I would expect better. Or are skiers that easily parted with their money

 

[James]

Is anyone else reading this thread really proud that skiing doesn't have custom-cast heavy iron aftermarket baseplates for our wax irons?

#atleastwe'renotaudio

Not really.
Most irons are crap though. One of the worst I’ve used had a digital display.

 

[Jacques]

Not really.
Most irons are crap though. One of the worst I’ve used had a digital display.

Ha ha. My digital display is on the heat probe I check the plate temperature with!
Verification is a good thing.

 

[François Pugh]

Why wouldn't you polish the edges and make sure there are no hanging burrs BEFORE waxing? It's a much bigger hassle to try to smooth them with wax in play.. gunks up your files and stones..

LOL.
When I was in my all carving - all the time phase and before I knew about hanging burs, my skis had them - often. It didn't bother me, because solid edge engagement all the time was how I rolled. I guess that explains how when I swapped skis with someone they couldn't wait to get their skis back and wondered how I skied mine. My iron is all scarred up. Meh, the roughness helps spread the wax. It doesn't seem to damage the bases. Mind you, I'm not trying to win any races.

 

[Jacques]

LOL.
When I was in my all carving - all the time phase and before I knew about hanging burs, my skis had them - often. It didn't bother me, because solid edge engagement all the time was how I rolled. I guess that explains how when I swapped skis with someone they couldn't wait to get their skis back and wondered how I skied mine. My iron is all scarred up. Meh, the roughness helps spread the wax. It doesn't seem to damage the bases. Mind you, I'm not trying to win any races.

If you are not scratching up your bases in a bad way that's good.
Structure in the iron plate is good (roughness), but no protruding burs.
It has not to do with winning races, it has to do with a more even heating over the base, and being able to see an "un-flat" base while you iron because your iron is flat.

 

[surfski]

I had a terrible time when i first started waxing, it seemed i had to use a LOT of wax and thought OMG this stuff is expensive I cant believe how much i'm putting on just to get a coating without having the iron stick.
Following this thread I flattened my TOKO T14 iron and oh boy did it take a lot of sanding to get the iron flat. In use though the results are a night and day improvement the wax now flows and spreads Sooooooo much easier, and using only a fraction of the wax to do so.
Thank you Jaques it was your enthusiasm for getting the iron flat that convinced me to take the chance i might screw my iron up completely but i couldn't be happier with the end result

 

[Jacques]

I had a terrible time when i first started waxing, it seemed i had to use a LOT of wax and thought OMG this stuff is expensive I cant believe how much i'm putting on just to get a coating without having the iron stick.
Following this thread I flattened my TOKO T14 iron and oh boy did it take a lot of sanding to get the iron flat. In use though the results are a night and day improvement the wax now flows and spreads Sooooooo much easier, and using only a fraction of the wax to do so.
Thank you Jaques it was your enthusiasm for getting the iron flat that convinced me to take the chance i might screw my iron up completely but i couldn't be happier with the end result

Check this one out video

 

[James]

Anyone have an issue with the iron being too flat? The Star iron, one down from the most expensive can have that. When the wax melts you can get a lot of stiction to the base.

 

[Jacques]

Anyone have an issue with the iron being too flat? The Star iron, one down from the most expensive can have that. When the wax melts you can get a lot of stiction to the base.

Easy fix. Run some 80 grit paper to give structure. Suction sucks!

 

[Don't Skip Leg Day]

 

[Zirbl]

I don't know Troy, but Zach Caldwell was pretty good reference in xc, Yes also I'm on "high" heat side. With moving iron at right speed you heat up base and wax for ptex to "accept" wax without damaging ski. I can't tell what this speed is, as it depends on too many factors (from type of wax, to room conditions), but with some experience you cna see it pretty easy if you are moving iron too fast or too slow. I wouldn't really go this far to claim you can't do this with lower temperatures, as just wax dissolving and penetrating ptex worked pretty good at 60-70c hotboxes. But people stopped using hotboxes due other reason, not because wax wouldn't penetrate. Long exposure to heat, even if just 60-70c is not good for skis, and skis lose their flex etc. I'm sure this doesn't show for normal users, but once Olympic gold medal depends on this, you don't want to have ski, that performs worse then it would, if it would be worked on it different way.
Normally my iron temperature is between 120 and 140c depending on wax, and snow conditions for hard waxes (fluoro or non fluoro) and up to 190c for fluoro overlays.

If hotboxing ruins skis, does the same hold for infrared, or is that acceptable?