• For more information on how to avoid pop-up ads and still support SkiTalk click HERE.

Unofficial Guide: Mammoth Mountain, CA

Jim Kenney

Travel Correspondent
Team Gathermeister
Contributor
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Posts
3,654
Location
VA
Unofficial Guide: Mammoth Mountain, CA
By Jim Kenney
October 11, 2022


This isn't a true unofficial guide, but more of a glorified trip report from April 15-18, 2022 when I skied four consecutive days at Mammoth Mountain. It was my first ever visit there, so take what I'm about to present with a grain of salt. I caught some fine conditions and was able to ski a good sample of the mountain.

Overview

It took me a long time to make my first visit to Mammoth. I've been skiing throughout North America for 55 years. It's a bit of an enigmatic mountain in that it's big enough to be a destination resort for all-comers from around the world, but instead functions more like a weekend retreat for Soouthern California (SoCal) natives. With this report I'll try to give a decent overview of the expansive terrain at Mammoth (3,100' vertical, 3,500 skiable acres) and share some of my favorite photos from my visit. Days 1, 3 and 4 were sunny with excellent skiing. Day 2 was windy with about 8" new wet snow, but visibility was poor and most of the lifts on the mountain were closed.

wholly mccoy station 15 apr.jpg
There's a life-sized replica of a Woolly Mammoth inside McCoy Station, the mid-mtn lodge at Mammoth, photo by Jim Kenney

My visit to Mammoth started by making a remarkable 550 mile/9 hour drive west from Salt Lake City. It was a super remote route across the Bonneville Salt Flats of northern Utah and through the central Nevada desert. Over 400 miles of the trip was on two lane roads, but the traffic was so light that you could go 70+ MPH much of the way.

lonely rest stop 14 apr.jpg
A rest stop on US 6 west of Ely, NV is beautiful in its desolation, photo by Jim Kenney

My wife accompanied me and we stayed in a condo near the Eagle Base/Chairlift, but she's a retired skier, so I skied solo on this trip. People told me Mammoth was windy. It was windy all four of my ski days there, varying between 25-60 MPH, which impacted lift openings/closures on three out of four days. But the wind is a blessing as well as a curse. It was a blessing on my first day (April 15th) because 2" of overnight snow skied like 6" in many places on the mountain where it had collected in light, dusty drifts.

Day One

My first day at Mammoth was gorgeous and sunny with high temps around 40 degrees. All the good upper lifts eventually opened in the afternoon. I'd been skiing Snowbird all winter and Mammoth is clearly a bigger mountain than Snowbird. One of the reasons I'd made the drive over from Salt Lake City was because Mammoth keeps more terrain open in late spring than Snowbird. Plus, I'm always up for skiing a big mountain that is new to me.

chair 12 liftline 15 apr.jpg
Good early skiing on April 15, 2022 under old double chair #12, photo by Jim Kenney

Mammoth has something like 25 ski lifts and a few feature VERY old-school lift shacks. I couldn't help wondering if legendary ski area founder Dave McCoy had a hand in building some of them himself?

13 lift shack 15 apr.jpg
Lift 13 Summit, photo by Jim Kenney

The highlight of my first day was a batch of great runs I made off Chair 23 in the early afternoon. The elevation at the top of this chair lift is approximately 10,500'. The snow was excellent (that 6" of fluffy wind drift) across the steep slopes served by 23 and I skied all of them. Lift lines were very moderate all over the mountain (it was a Friday), although I had the advantage of taking the singles line whenever necessary.

23 liftline 15 apr.jpg
L-R: Cornice Bowl, Dropout and Wipeout chutes (sandwiching the Chair 23 liftline) and Scotty's to the right, photo by Jim Kenney

The ride up Chair 23 is an eyeopener. The terrain is beautiful, steep, and rugged. And on this mid-April day the snow conditions were wonderfully winter-like.

upper 23 wipeout 15 apr.jpg
View of Wipeout chute from Chair 23, photo by Jim Kenney

There is a rather elaborate off-ramp structure at the top of Chair 23. I assume it's to protect riders from getting blown off the chair at the summit. It was always windy up there during my visit.

23 wipeout chute.jpg
Chair 23 Summit, photo by Jim Kenney

My favorite run of the day was Dropout Chute from the summit of Chair 23. It was loaded with soft windblown snow and illuminated with nice sunshine. I drove through 500 miles of desert for this!

dropout chute 23 15 apr (1).jpg
The snow was as good as it looks in Dropout Chute, photo by Jim Kenney

I felt like I'd hit the jackpot at Mammoth. The clouds had fully parted by the afternoon and I got terrific views of the famous Minarets mountain peaks. Crowd-free skiing in the High Sierras with sunshine and lollipops at all times, right?

jim top chair 23 15 apr.jpg
My first day at Mammoth was a big winner, photo by Jim Kenney

wind buff 15 apr mammoth.jpg
View of the summit gondola as stormy weather moves in at the end of my first day at Mammoth Mountain, photo by Jim Kenney

Day Two


Oops! If my first day was the pretty Mammoth, my second day was the ugly Mammoth. 6-8 inches of wet snow fell overnight and into the morning while the winds howled. I knew many lifts would be closed. By the time I got out on the mountain on April 16th they had closed all but four lower chairlifts. It was a Saturday and the small amount of terrain that was open was crowded with poor visibility. Some folks raved about the new snow, but I skied for only two hours and concluded that I didn't miss much by doing a short day. The winds giveth and the winds taketh away.

woolly face 16 apr.jpg Even Mammoth's mascot Woolly looks a little bewildered on April 16, 2022, photo by Jim Kenney

Day Three

Easter Sunday, April 17, 2022, was another pretty one at Mammoth. The fresh snow from the day before had benefited from a cool night and set up to a little dryer consistency. The California skies were blue again and the crowds were remarkably light, especially after 11 AM. I was told that mass departures on Sunday afternoons are common at Mammoth because everyone wants to make the 5-8 hour drive back to SoCal before it gets too late on Sunday night. 90% of the people I rode chairlifts with during my visit were from SoCal. The other 10% were from the San Francisco Bay area.

It didn't take me long to head back to Chair 23. This time my goal was to ski the Paranoids, a group of steep chutes to the skier's left from the summit of Chair 23. The entrances were a little rocky, but the snow was good in the Paranoids.

lady para 1 17 apr.jpg
I followed this young lady down P1. The main Mammoth Mountain base lodge is in the distant background. There are seven or eight base lodges at Mammoth, photo by Jim Kenney

scoping para 2 17 apr.jpg
I followed this young man down P2. The full length of Chair 23 can be seen in the background, photo by Jim Kenney


pro boarder 17 apr.jpg
A bunch of photogs were taking pictures of this snowboarder in a nearby area called Philippe's, photo by Jim Kenney

paranoids 1 2 3 from below 17 apr.jpg
View of the Paranoids from below, L-R: P1, P2, P3, and a chute called Phillipe's cuts through the center of the rocky area at right, photo by Jim Kenney

While I found the runs off Chair 23 to be a favorite during my time at Mammoth I also enjoyed runs from the 11,053' summit of the Panorama Gondola. It's the highest lift served point on the mountain. There's food and even a little museum/interpretive center at the summit building. It's a fun place to take in the full scope of Mammoth's huge layout.

climax bowl mammoth 15 apr.jpg View of Climax Bowl from near the summit of the Panorama Gondola, photo by Jim Kenney

pb&j ice tea 17 apr summit.jpg
Lunch time view from the summit building of the Panorama Gondola, photo by Jim Kenney

After stopping at the gondola summit building for a lunch break on my third day at Mammoth I took a run down a huge above tree-line area called Dave's Run after Dave McCoy. This area must be a mile wide and the route I took was more precisely identified as Dave's Shoulder. I following a friendly lady telemarker as we glided through a snow surface that was chalky and nicely carvable.

tele daves shoulder 17 apr.jpg
Dave's Shoulder, photo by Jim Kenney

From the summit of the gondola there is a long run called Road Runner that leads to the "backside" of the mountain served by Chairs 13 and 14. Even though there was still plenty of snow on the slopes April 16th was the last day of scheduled operations for the backside and a few other fringe areas of the mountain. I was glad to get the opportunity to check out the full Mammoth trail layout. The backside also has it's own base lodge called The Outpost.

backside view 17 apr.jpg
This is the "backside" of the mountain heading towards chair 14 with the picturesque Minarets peaks in the background, photo by Jim Kenney.

The capper on my fine third day at Mammoth was spectating at the annual pond skim. It was Easter Sunday. The weather was nice with no wind on the lower mountain and the crowd was boisterous. It was really a fun event. Everybody had a good time, perhaps no one more than Woolly who successfully skimmed the pond in full mascot regalia to the cheering delight of the crowd.

skim crazies 17 apr.jpg
Pond Skim Crazies, photo by Jim Kenney

woolly pond tuck 17 apr.jpg
The Woolly Tuck, photo by Jim Kenney

woolly made it 17 apr (2).jpg
Woolly made it and the crowd went nuts, photo by Jim Kenney

Day Four

18 Apr 2022 was my last day at Mammoth. This was the first day Mammoth cut back on the amount of open terrain for late spring operations. I'd say about 1/3 of the mountain closed down, but I didn't mind because it was mostly lower, melted-out sections anyway. All the good stuff was still open. I used The Mill base area to access the slopes and returned there to eat my bag lunch at my car. The crowds were lighter than ever and I got a chance to savor some of my favorite spots on the mountain.

At one point a friendly local showed me some great stashes of wind drifted snow beside the High Five Express Chair and I skied this area about four times in a row.

broadway view 18 apr.jpg
View of the upper mountain from the front face, photo by Jim Kenney

On this day some officials set up a long course for GS and Downhill races to be held later in the week. My last run was some fun carving down the empty race track for probably 1500'+ vertical - a very nice final memory of Mammoth Mountain!
race course 18 apr.jpg

The return drive from Mammoth to SLC was again memorable for its stark emptiness.

boundary peak 19 apr (1).jpg
View of Boundary Peak (elev 13,147') off US 6 at the CA-NV border, photo by Jim Kenney

Conclusion

I really enjoyed my visit to Mammoth. It's definitely an impressive mountain and probably goes in my top ten! Three of my four days were sunny with excellent snow surfaces. I was skiing solo and benefited on several occasions from chair lift riders who gave me fun tutorials on where to look for wind buffed spots on the mountain. Good terrain, good snow, and good people, Mammoth is a fine late spring destination.


minarets chair 23 15 apr.jpg
Mammoth is one sweet mountain, photo by Jim Kenney.

[I will return to this post soon to complete editing and add info on mtn stats and other facts.]
 
Last edited:

locknload

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Feb 3, 2016
Posts
1,621
Location
Carlsbad
Great writeup, Jim. You came across as a veteran even though it was your virgin voyage. First thing's first...when people from elsewhere in the West ask you how Mammoth was/is..you answer very simply: "Super crowded, weak terrain, bad visibility and crappy snow".... :golfclap: If you do that, you are ALWAYS welcome back!

Mammoth has a special charm all its own. It is steep and more vast than people think. I like that it still has an old West feel even as they continue to modernize the infrastructure. They are getting ready to tear down the Mammoth Mtn Lodge and build a new property at the bottom next to the gondola. More "progress" will clear away Mammoth history. I love the mountain layout, the multiple base areas and how rugged the Sierras are. It can get massive dumps..but not always the lightest snow..not as heavy as the NW but typically not the blower POW you can get in UT/CO/WY. I think the backside is cool and has some fun hike-to areas and just feels like a new adventure. Glad you found the paranoids..they are fun! Its a really special place..while it is trafficked by the massive metro areas of SF/Oak, LA and San Diego..you can find yourself feeling alone and by yourself on certain days (mostly during the week). I love it there and its just as gorgeous in the other seasons..but the extended winters make for remarkable lift-served and BC skiing!!!
 
Last edited:

mdf

entering the Big Couloir
Skier
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
7,298
Location
Boston Suburbs
They are getting ready to tear down the Mammoth Mtn Lodge
I'm surprised. When I was there last spring, I got the impression that was going to happen during the just-past summer.
 

locknload

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Feb 3, 2016
Posts
1,621
Location
Carlsbad
I'm surprised. When I was there last spring, I got the impression that was going to happen during the just-past summer.
Yes....and nothing going on this summer. Must be delayed...I'll have to go look it up and find out the latest.
 

Bill Miles

Old Man Groomer Zoomer
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 16, 2015
Posts
1,341
Location
Hailey, Idaho
I have only skied Mammoth in late season (May), when it is not fully open, so have not been able to fully appreciate it. Also, of course, snow conditions are not ideal. My impression, based on this, is too much wide for not enough tall. I have usually stayed in the Motel 6, but notice even this is over $120 next season.
OTOH, I now have an Ikon Base add-on, so will try to make a trip next season.
 

locknload

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Feb 3, 2016
Posts
1,621
Location
Carlsbad
I have only skied Mammoth in late season (May), when it is not fully open, so have not been able to fully appreciate it. Also, of course, snow conditions are not ideal. My impression, based on this, is too much wide for not enough tall. I have usually stayed in the Motel 6, but notice even this is over $120 next season.
OTOH, I now have an Ikon Base add-on, so will try to make a trip next season.
"Too wide for not enough tall"?? Not sure what you mean. 11,053 is not high enough for you?
 

mdf

entering the Big Couloir
Skier
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
7,298
Location
Boston Suburbs
"Too wide for not enough tall"?? Not sure what you mean. 11,053 is not high enough for you?
Late season most of the lifts and many of the runs from the top are closed. A run from the top can give you a short steep followed by looping around past the base of 5 and all the way to the bottom on blues.
 

tromano

Goin' the way they're pointed...
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Posts
2,475
Location
Layton, UT
What's your thoughts on Mammoth vs other spring destinations?
 

locknload

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Feb 3, 2016
Posts
1,621
Location
Carlsbad
I'm surprised. When I was there last spring, I got the impression that was going to happen during the just-past summer.
So...I did some research. What's curious is the most recent update says the following:

MAIN LODGE RENOVATION | MAMMOTH MOUNTAIN​

A beloved relic of the skiing’s past, Mammoth Mountain Main Lodge will see an overdue update that is scheduled to be completed by the spring of 2023. The multi-use space will incorporate boutique dining, guest services, an adventure concierge center, as well as residences for sale, and much more.

Yet it offers no more details and a cursory search doesn't yield anything else. Clearly this must be delayed?


Ikon improvements
 

mdf

entering the Big Couloir
Skier
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
7,298
Location
Boston Suburbs
What's your thoughts on Mammoth vs other spring destinations?
I've been doing a spring trip for a lot of years, mostly A-Basin Mother's Day trips.

You have to like spring conditions wherever you go, so I'll take that as a given. (I've also gotten better at coping -- look for the shady side of the trails, rub on wax up to a couple of times a day. Layer two different kinds of sunscreen.)

This past year (2022) I was in Colorado Apr 30 - May 9. We skied A-Basin, Loveland, and Breck. All were great, though the long low-angle runouts at Breck got annoying by the end of the day. The upper mountain Breck steeps made it worth it, though. Loveland had great bumps. ABasin had new snow(!). Overall, I've had good luck in Colorado almost every year.

The year before (2021) I was in Colorado California. We skied Pallisades, both Olympic Valley (then Squaw) and Alpine Meadows for a week and then moved down to Mammoth about May 9 and skied the second week of May there.
Pallisades was glorious, but melting out rapidly. We skied Granite Chief a lot at the beginning of the week -- it was closed by the end. We also did a bit of hiking to get up to spots that were open did not have open lifts. A week earlier would have been better, but I hopped on a plane as soon as I was fully vaccinated.

Mammoth also would have been better a week earlier. The Paranoids were closed by the time I got there. The Wipeouts/Dropouts closed midweek. By the end of the week, our choices were mostly down to Dave's, Climax, and Stump Alley, with long looping routes to get back. Mammoth moves an amazing amount of snow to keep the connecting routes open as white ribbons through the dry.

It's been too long since I did spring in Utah to remember specifics.

I think there is a bit of luck-of-the-year involved. I think a couple weeks earlier all of them would be a pretty safe bet.

(Spring in Killington is pretty darn nice too, but spring comes earlier there.)
 
Last edited:
Thread Starter
TS
Jim Kenney

Jim Kenney

Travel Correspondent
Team Gathermeister
Contributor
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 27, 2015
Posts
3,654
Location
VA
What's your thoughts on Mammoth vs other spring destinations?
It's potentially a very good choice, but obviously you'd want to pick a good snow year. Here are some of the other NA destinations that are good for late spring skiing: Snowbird/Alta, Bachelor, A-Basin, Breckenridge, Sunshine Banff, Whistler and perhaps Big Sky. It's tough to compare them without knowing how much terrain they usually keep open in a typical spring, but if you already have on Ikon pass that makes Mammoth enticing.
 
Last edited:

tromano

Goin' the way they're pointed...
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Posts
2,475
Location
Layton, UT
It's potentially a very good choice, but obviously you'd want to pick a good snow year. Here are some of the other US destinations that are good for late spring skiing: Snowbird/Alta, Bachelor, A-Basin, Breckenridge, Sunshine Banff, Whistler and perhaps Big Sky. It's tough to compare them without knowing how much terrain they usually keep open in a typical spring, but if you already have on Ikon pass that makes Mammoth enticing.
Yes, the whole family has ikon base passes this season. We will probably be out of snowbird days by spring so will be looking to make a little trip. Probably in April. Will see how the winter goes, but definitely inspired here.

@mdf We love spring conditions and since we choose to ski Snowbasin, some times we get spring skiing in February.
 

mdf

entering the Big Couloir
Skier
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
7,298
Location
Boston Suburbs
It's potentially a very good choice, but obviously you'd want to pick a good snow year. Here are some of the other US destinations that are good for late spring skiing: Snowbird/Alta, Bachelor, A-Basin, Breckenridge, Sunshine Banff, Whistler and perhaps Big Sky. It's tough to compare them without knowing how much terrain they usually keep open in a typical spring, but if you already have on Ikon pass that makes Mammoth enticing.

At Mammoth, a good marker for the division between late winter and spring is probably when they close the Canyon Lodge at Mammoth, consolidating to Main and Mill lodges. It is usually around the3rd week of April, though it's been as early/late as Apr 14 / Apr 28.
 

KingGrump

Most Interesting Man In The World
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
12,331
Location
NYC
What's your thoughts on Mammoth vs other spring destinations?

We usually do Mammoth in May. After the snow at PT goes bad and most of it is closed.
The 21/22 spring that @mdf mentioned was a very low snow year.
Few years back the snow kept coming. We extended our stay from 2 to 4 weeks. Luck of the draw.
 

Sponsor

Staff online

Top