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Colorado Vail, CO - 12/21-12/26 2022 - The place you love to hate

givethepigeye

Really, just Rob will do
Skier
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Nov 13, 2015
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Charleston, SC
Backround
Let me provide some perspective. While my father learned to ski in Austria immediately after WWII (and skied in the US after his return) and had old wooden skis, leather boots in the attic growing up - we were not a "Skiing family". My mother's side were "water people" and that's what we were. Kind of the "if mama's not happy, nobody is happy" philosophy. We spent all free time at our shack on the Severn River just up from Annapolis and sailing/fishing etc.

In high school, everyone went on night ski trips to Roundtop & Liberty - I didn't, but always wanted to. Was not until my early work days in Baltimore with a great work colleague that was a ski instructor up there, that I did. Over Christmas and Spring Break, kids would return with "Vail" or "Aspen" t-shirts or corduroy hats and say how great it was - so as a kid that got to work on their parent's shack over the break - all this was pretty intoxicating. So, when I got so that I could ski/board a bit and a had the means - we were going to that mythical place - Vail.

Been going ever since before the Epic Pass & Colorado Pass were even "a thing" - always once in Dec and then as work trips to Denver or points West would allow.

Yes it sucks - don’t go there.

12/21 - 12/26
Our trips usually were at the first part of December (over my birthday) but a trip to Europe in early Dec 2019 - shifted us to the week before and Christmas. Better chance for better conditions and while first week of December about 8/10 were fine - it was about a 50% shot at the back being open.

Arrived in DEN on 12/21, couple hours late, thanks AA, and made a dash to the mountains - weather was coming and the better half is NOT the one you want in the co-pilot seat on that drive in the snow. It started on the drag up to the tunnel, despite "traction laws in effect" multiple 18 wheeler with no chains, spinning, blocking road -etc. Once I found the 4WD button on the Expedition - all good - also was sunny on the western side. Missed the regular stop at The Butterhorn in Frisco due to delay - but rest of the trip was uneventful. Contrary to the signs, Waze and CDOT - Vail Pass was not closed and we didn't take the advice for the re-route through Leadville.

12/22 - skied by myself, was something like -5 at the bottom of chair 8, with wind up top. pushed off the chair and was a big "oh $hit" moment - forgot that I had stored our skis with spring wax, pulled them out of the storage space, scraped and packed them (sold house, process of moving, not sure where wax iron is). After skate skiing all the way to Chair 2, I was smoked. Don't ski Spring wax in below zero snow. 4" of powder from the storm, deeper in some places due to the winds moving it about. headed over to Chair 11, laps, then back across to Lionshead. Anyway skied until about 12:30/1pm - the back was not open due to conditions (cold and wind). It was super cold, put in about 16K and called it a day. Met the better half at Vail Chophouse and had a beer. Dropped both sets of skis off at Vail Ski Tech for wax.

12/23 - she made it out! Its been a tough year - for her injury-wise - so day one for her was going to be slow and likely groomers only. which is was. Still not many folks on the hill, "normal" mid-20's temps, some leftover soft stuff and Chair 36 (Teacup) and 21 (Orient) spinning. Did the same as we always do - 8 -> 2 -> 3 -> 4 and then play it from there. Wax was the right call. She lapped She lapped #14 (Sourdough) while I headed off into China for a couple of laps. Decent - kind of flat light over there. skied the trees under 21. Met up at Two Elk, order of fries, water and a beer - and back over to Mid-Vail and back to Lionshead. Basically ski on chairs all day - little bit of a line at 4 and 11. Not more than 5 minutes. Her legs worked, she still can ski - so all good. probably about the same vertical 16k by the time we stopped @ 1:30 ish.

12/24 - Snowing. Christmas Miracle! (couple years straight now on Christmas or Christmas Eve) Back is open, LFG! Nothing really remarkable on this day, went Lionshead 8->2->4->11->14 and then into China and over to Blue Sky Basin. Rode 37 (Skyline) and the wind had basically blown all the snow off the top of ridge (down to the grass) - skied Cloud 9 'ish down to #39 (Pete's) down The Star side and back over the bridge to 21 - and up to Two Elk. Shared a chair with a local ortho and his nurse wife - they were remarking on the carnage from the day before all over the hill (patrol and sleds) - which was true, kind of flat light and folks in the back trying to stay on the groomed in the bowls and not being successful. We all agreed that we were all "too old" to ski hard all day on those days where its marginal light. It's pretty much my worst nightmare. Literally will spend an inordinate amount of time on the goggle lens selection and often feel like my retinas are burned because I was too conservative. Anyway....so...skied the Shangri-la trees for a couple of laps <- which was great the lower you got on the hill. Top was hard and crusty. skied about 20K vert. Back in Lionshead by 2pm. Really no lift lines anywhere to speak of. Not always "ski-on" but nothing more than a couple of chairs wait.

12/25 - Christmas Day. Started with a great surprise - Christmas Ham for breakfast at the buffet! (more on lodging later). Anyway - basically the same day as before - exception was that the significant other decided she was going to ski the back with me rather than just stay on the groomed parts. She really is a much better skier than she will allow herself - skies Rendezvous Bowl at JH no issue, has skied Expert Chutes and Cirque as well. Just prefers sunny days and groomers at this point. So......couple of laps in Shangri-la trees was in order and then riding 36 and looking at Genghis and lack of a cornice - said "Can we ski that?" Why sure we can! maybe twice. Which we did. headed back to Lionshead after via 11 and 3 with a stop for a ride up 36 (Pride Express) and then down. solid day 23K of vert back at 2:30. Note: the Lionshead side of the mountain was empty every day after lunch, as fast as you wanted, as long or short a turn as you wanted. Im sure that changes as the mountain shuts down - but we are never around by then - always après.

12/26 - drive down to DEN after breakfast - road fine going East. vibes to those headed West. backed up from Idaho Springs to the place where the bison are on the side of the road and then up the hill after CO470 going West. DEN was fine, unless you were on SWA that day. Clear is worth every penny, unless you like lines.

Lodging
We "hotel people" and are Marriott brand loyal (grew up in Bethesda) - have always stayed (rare exception) at the Vail Marriott, now The Hythe. Has had a really extensive renovation - now its kind of a modern property, modern interior, rooms redone - breakfast buffet is huge (better be a Marriot tier traveler though, otherwise its $42 per person). Lavazza espresso machine in room. Has a spa - only have used it when skiing an then driving down to DEN for the locker room - saw a lot of people in robes, so maybe its good. Service was great, location is fine - short walk to Chair 8 or Eagles Nest Gondi. It is not inexpensive - but you can leverage points. Got an upgraded room with sofa and fireplace - so i will call it a win.

Food
Didn't really eat much on the hill other than french fries and a bowl of soup. French fries are tasty, crispy and less than $10 ogsmile, however no grey poupon - which seems wrong at Vail. Dinners were at same places we always go:
Vail Chophouse - not the greatest, but easy after a day of travel, They make a great Manhattan and she likes their wedge salad.
Vendetta's - IYKYK. don't even need the menu - Billy Bob's Brain Pizza and the house salad, no onions. Beer is the best bet here.
Fall Line Kitchen - small menu - love the Ramen (which was not available), great cocktails, good service. What I would call "modern alpine" decor - Slim Aarons photos all about from the "Golden years". Split a filet - was plenty and tasty. Along with a Hendricks Martini and glass of cab.
Mountain Standard - (Christmas Eve) bottle of Veuve and onion dip app. <- think of and elevated Liptons French Onion dip in "whipped sour cream", for lightness and house made chips, it was great. Split the "corned pork shank" w/ gruyere potato puree - plenty, took some home. Added "sauce" for the kitchen staff - it was Christmas Eve after all.

Overall, pretty decent little trip - not as crowded as last year on the hill. Restaurants still a tough reservation on Christmas Eve. We don't get an Epic Pass anymore - but do plan on Vail in December every year - buy the multi-way pass online (works out to be around $100/day or something). Always roll through Gorsuch and check out the Christmas stuff - usually get a new ornament, chocolate or something.

Will add some pictures - I don't take many while skiing.
 
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Jim Kenney

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Thanks for an interesting report of a successful trip to Vail taken at a very prime time that some of us might tend to avoid out of fear of crowds/craziness. Is it correct to assume that you avoided some of the busiest holiday times at Vail by departing on the 26th? Glad you were not part of the SWA debacle. Enjoyed your background info and have known for some time that hotel points are a sneaky-good way that folks can make a visit to Vail pretty affordable.
 
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givethepigeye

givethepigeye

Really, just Rob will do
Skier
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Posts
1,705
Location
Charleston, SC
@Jim Kenney - yes, hotel was not deserted but probably at about 60% through 25th. Big crowd expected in on 26th. Did not seem to be as many visitors from Mexico and South America this year for some reason. Still was not inexpensive but maybe less than full-on season. The real value used to be that first week of December or so when a room was $199, but that was pre-COVID.

No line at base for chair 8 or gondola at 8:45l always skied onto 8 in the AM. Downside is the Pomas don’t usually run and particularly this year Chair 7 (Gamecreek) wasn’t spinning - saving for Holiday visitors I’m sure + work on new Sundown Express Chair w/ equipment all over up there.
 

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