Waxing Iron - Digital Setting vs Conventional Dial?

[murphysf]

Hello

Are there any advantages to a digital setting waxing iron vs a conventional iron with a dial to set the temp?

A few years ago I bought an entry level wintersteiger iron and set the dial for the wax I use using with a Fluke Infrared Thermometer and then never touched the dial.

The reason I ask is that a friend is interested in getting started to wax his skis. I was thinking of giving him mine and then upgrading?

Part of me believes that once the temp is set the it doesn't matter if it is digital or not? Figuring that once the temp is set, the regulation method is the same.

Perhaps some of you know more of the technical workings of a digital iron and potential benefits?

 

[oldschoolskier]

Yep. Once set its pretty on a manual iron.

However on a good digital iron it is held within a couple of degrees no matter the loading placed on it so the temperature remains more consistent.

 

[Dwight]

Some digitals always reset to zero when turned off. Some dont'

 

[crgildart]

I used cheap clothes irons until Vistman gave me his old Swix iron. Any excuse to buy new gear is good enough, but helping out a buddy or even random stranger is a great reason.

As fpr performance, I never really put much stock in the settings beyond.. if the wax is smoking it's too hot, turn it down some. If the wax ain't dripping it ain't hot enough.. turn it up. Good irons heat up quicker and stay hot better.. A heavy base helps too but you get that with all dedicated waxing irons.

 

[mdf]

As fpr performance, I never really put much stock in the settings beyond.. if the wax is smoking it's too hot, turn it down some. If the wax ain't dripping it ain't hot enough.. turn it up. Good irons heat

My position exactly. The numbers on the dial are just a starting point.

 

[Philpug]

I started with a Toko T8 and at the sugestion of Toko's National Product Manager, I upgraded to the T14 Digital this year.


I will say I did see a much better level of consistancy in heat that the iron produced. The T8 would need adjustment from time to time from being too hot (and smoking) to not hor enough. So far, the T14 has stayed at the same consistant temp. If money is no object you can easily spend over $400 ($440) for the T18.

 

[François Pugh]

I used cheap clothes irons until Vistman gave me his old Swix iron. Any excuse to buy new gear is good enough, but helping out a buddy or even random stranger is a great reason.

As fpr performance, I never really put much stock in the settings beyond.. if the wax is smoking it's too hot, turn it down some. If the wax ain't dripping it ain't hot enough.. turn it up. Good irons heat up quicker and stay hot better.. A heavy base helps too but you get that with all dedicated waxing irons.

My position exactly. The numbers on the dial are just a starting point.

The key is to get a good quality iron with a heavy base, not a cheap $49.99 one.
As to temperature, I have an analogue meter that I set at half-way between rayon and silk for most wax. That setting doesn't melt the very cold temperature wax, so I turn it up a bit. If I forget to turn it down when the weather warms up, the wax smokes and reminds me to do so.

 

[oldschoolskier]

Personally I use a cheap $20 iron, but for a long time used an antique cast iron iron heated with a propane torch until wax melted. Could do 2 to 3 pairs of skis on one heating

 

[crgildart]

The key is to get a good quality iron with a heavy base, not a cheap $49.99 one.

It's cheap at the thrift store. Finding a 40 year old iron with a solid base for $5 happens fairly often.

 

[Primoz]

Digital ones are easier to use, that's for sure. Thing is, you don't set temperature and forget. You have one temperature for storage/transportation wax, different temperature for cold waxes, yet another for warm waxes, then different temperature depending on snow temperature (waxing let's say Swix HF8 at 120 or at 140c gives different results in different snow), then yet another for waxing overlays etc. Changing this is much easier with digital one. But what is really main difference is, that most of analog irons have thin plates. At least with Swix, you can get thick plates only on digital one (T71 or what I still call best iron ever, T70, but that's xc specific).
Now does someone, who will wax 10 pairs of skis a season needs that? Honestly, I don't think so. If price difference would be few euros then sure, get digital one with thick plate, but thing is, T71 is 400eur and T70 is 500eur, while you can get good enough wax iron for occasional ski preparation for 50-100eur. And for that, I would say such huge price difference is not worth, unless you know why you want one of previously mentioned ones.

 

[Marker]

I started with a Toko T8 and at the sugestion of Toko's National Product Manager, I upgraded to the T14 Digital this year.


I will say I did see a much better level of consistancy in heat that the iron produced. The T8 would need adjustment from time to time from being too hot (and smoking) to not hor enough. So far, the T14 has stayed at the same consistant temp. If money is no object you can easily spend over $400 ($440) for the T18.

I upgraded to this digital iron even before the site went Toko, and I'm glad I did. Much better than my old Wintersteiger manual, which mysteriously would increase in temperature to the point of damaging one ski base. I think I must have kept bumping the dial with my large hands. After dropping it on the floor, I decided it was better to buy a new larger one than fix the old smaller one.

 

[crgildart]

Legit ski wax irons are also better for applying badges to scout uniforms.

 

[Eric@ict]

I thought the price difference between the manual and digital would have been only in the electronics. I’m surprised they have different plate thicknesses based on the model. I don’t do a lot of skis so it’s not a deal killer for cheaper.

 

[François Pugh]

I thought the price difference between the manual and digital would have been only in the electronics. I’m surprised they have different plate thicknesses based on the model. I don’t do a lot of skis so it’s not a deal killer for cheaper.

They just group a bunch of stuff together in the higher level model, like you get more in a binding with a DIN release in the 15 and up range than in the under 10 range than just a stronger spring, or you get a sun roof with the GT as opposed to the GS Mazda 3 (whether you want it or not) along with the leather, better stereo and the fog lights. They just decided what features go into the more expensive iron, and those features include a digital heat setting, along with the thicker base, etc.

 

[oldschoolskier]

I went the the Swix Canada site and looked at the Iron prices......along with the spring clamp......

I’m considering a start up to under cut them by at least half and make still make 200% profit.......just say’n.

 

[Zrxman01]

For years I used a $20.00 folding travel iron and balanced my skis on whatever table, stove or railing I had. Those days are long gone.

About. 6 years ago I bough an analog Swix T73. I also had a reasonably priced low end SVST digital iron.

Because the Swix was more “set and forget”
I tended to use it more. I tune 5-8 pairs of skis every week

With the SVST every time you plugged it in you had to fiddle with the setting.

This Spring at the start of Covid the Swix died so I used that as an excuse to get the digital Toko T18 of my dreams!!!!

The T18 keeps the last heat setting in memory so whenever you plug it in it’s ready to go within about a minute.

The base is also thicker and it seems to hold a constant heat better than the Swix.

So far so good. I have put about 20 or so wax cycles using the new iron. I know they are not an inexpensive option but you get what you pay for.

View attachment 113729 View attachment 113729

 

[Tony S]

half-way between rayon and silk for most wax.

It's cheap at the thrift store. Finding a 40 year old iron with a solid base for $5 happens fairly often.

Legit ski wax irons are also better for applying badges to scout uniforms.

Come on, luddites, wake up and smell 1990. Sheesh.

 

[jzmtl]

Digital is easier to change among different temperatures, just set the number instead of remembering the precise locations on dial.

Really like my T14, although I sanded it flat since I find the concaved bottom surface weird and doesn't work well.

 

[JMD]

I picked up a Toko T14 Iron last season. I really like how it performs. I also had to heavily sand the base as it was very concaved and did not evenly heat until flattened.

 

[James]

One of the best irons was the Star (Italian) non digital iron. It did have a different type of circuit though than a standard iron so the temp control was much better. I think the circuit is the same as the digital. Hohlmenkohl sold Star irons with their nane.

It looks like that newish Toko T18 is a rebrand of a Star digital, which would be a good thing.

Those cheap irons branded Wintersteiger etc can be more hassle than their worth in use. I’d much rather have an old clothes iron with no steam holes in the base, which is getting harder to find.