If you're taking about thinning your quiver, and Ski Talkers are agreeing with you.. your quiver might be too big.I dunno about that. She's asking a specific question.
If you're taking about thinning your quiver, and Ski Talkers are agreeing with you.. your quiver might be too big.I dunno about that. She's asking a specific question.
First rule of quiver club - you never need to offload skis.When do you decide to sell skis?
I have two pairs with 90mm waists that I just don’t reach for - the Faction Candide Thovex 1.0 (snagged them during The House clearance sale- they are the burlier construction) and Renoun Z90s.
The CTs are too aggressive for me, definitely more of a charger ski.
The Renouns are good but I prefer a different (more playful) pair of skis that I own for conditions that call for 90mm underfoot skis.
Do I hold on to them in anticipation of my still developing ski style changing? Do I sell to make room for other skis I’m interested in trying?
If I sell the CTs, is it better to sell with the bindings or without? I assume better to sell with.
The CTs are an odd size since they’re in the high 150s. I’m more inclined to keep the Z90s… had a really great day on them with @skiki at NEG a few years ago, but just haven’t been going for them since then.
First rule of quiver club - you never need to offload skis.
Second rule of quiver club - rule one doesn’t apply when your husband or wife demands a quiver cull.
I like to have skis for;
That all said, if a ski isn’t working for you, move it on. Someone else can find some joy with it, and you can find joy with something else. I regularly trade through my skis until I find a keeper.
- Low snow firm snow - a carver. Currently for me that’s a Head Monster 83 @82 underfoot (yes carver enthusiasts will scoff but it gives me all o need)
- An 88 for sure for everyday Australian conditions - a daily driver - or somewhere like Sun Peaks. Currently Nordica Enforcer 88.
- A 1 oh something for powder days in Australia - pretty rare. Should also double as a travel ski (2nd ski in bag) for a non Niseko or Alta esque destination. Currently Nordica Enforcer 104 but for travel purposes a narrower ski would have been better.
- A Daily driver for Niseko. Currently Salomon Stance 96.
- A Niseko powder ski - currently DPS Wailer A110.
- An AT ski - currently Salomon QST 92.
When do you decide to sell skis?
I have two pairs with 90mm waists that I just don’t reach for - the Faction Candide Thovex 1.0 (snagged them during The House clearance sale- they are the burlier construction) and Renoun Z90s.
The CTs are too aggressive for me, definitely more of a charger ski.
The Renouns are good but I prefer a different (more playful) pair of skis that I own for conditions that call for 90mm underfoot skis.
Do I hold on to them in anticipation of my still developing ski style changing? Do I sell to make room for other skis I’m interested in trying?
If I sell the CTs, is it better to sell with the bindings or without? I assume better to sell with.
The CTs are an odd size since they’re in the high 150s. I’m more inclined to keep the Z90s… had a really great day on them with @skiki at NEG a few years ago, but just haven’t been going for them since then.
What is the mounting point on your CT 1.0s? I found that a more forward mount point make them much more playful and maneuverable, while still great at carving. At 1.5cm or more back from the CT triangle they're much more chargy, stable and like GS and bigger turns. This might be more for the shorter lengths and lighter weight skiers. In case you haven't seen it, see below which was posted in the never ending Faction discussion thread.CTs are rated a pretty fun ski. So might deliver when you get to that stage of your development or flip em on while they are still worth something. Secondhand skis are generally worth sod all where I am hence I find it FAR easier to add to the quiver and not really worth selling anything.
I think I finally have my CT 1.0 172cm figured out. They're mounted with Attack 13 demo bindings 1.5cm behind the CT mark. When I first skied them I struggled to stay on top of them and felt like I was always in the back seat when skiing bigger moguls and steeper terrain and they did not feel at all forgiving. On groomers they were an absolute blast. I moved the bindings back both one and two clicks and it made them even more of a handful. I had them ground flat and had a 1/3 base/side bevel done. At first it seemed to help but I still found myself struggling to stay on top of them. Today I decided to more the bindings forward. I started with 2 clicks and then tried 1 click. What a difference. Sure, they're not as stable when carving at speed but so much better off- piste. Seems like the vast majority of others are skiing the 178cm or longer CT 1.0. I'm 5'6" on a good day and 135lbs so maybe this is something with the 172cm length or something with those like me who are more vertically challenged and/or lighter weight. I remember someone else saying that they like their CT 1.0 mounted at the CT line but don't remember their vital stats. Any thoughts from the Faction collective?
Boot center is mounted at -1.5cm from the CT triangle. I move the binding up both 1 click and 2 clicks forward from -1.5cm. Since I'm not that flexible I don't know if 2 clicks forward is boot center at the CT triangle. I'm guessing each click forward or back is 0.5cm so 2 clicks forward is maybe 0.5cm behind the CT triangle.
For me, moving forward also makes the ski much more forgiving. It still carves pretty well, although it seems to prefer SL turns.
Actually the clicks are 8mm apart, so two notches would have you at the CT point. Btw, my observations were exactly the same on my 178 cm CT1.0. Same bindings.![]()
PM sent.The Factions should go while they’re worth a couple hundred dollars though. They don’t spark any joy, sadly. I have the room in my garage, but I just have too many sports toys.
just want to return you to center like an inflatable punching toy.
was that trend better or worse in a low-rebound boot like the old XPro?
It's now been dubbed "Quiver Club". I like it. I move for one amendment...I like your rules. But maybe rule one is "there's no quiver club because I absolutely don't have a problem with buying and keeping too many skis...you just don't understand....my friends on ski talk understand me better".First rule of quiver club - you never need to offload skis.
Second rule of quiver club - rule one doesn’t apply when your husband or wife demands a quiver cull.
I like to have skis for;
That all said, if a ski isn’t working for you, move it on. Someone else can find some joy with it, and you can find joy with something else. I regularly trade through my skis until I find a keeper.
- Low snow firm snow - a carver. Currently for me that’s a Head Monster 83 @82 underfoot (yes carver enthusiasts will scoff but it gives me all o need)
- An 88 for sure for everyday Australian conditions - a daily driver - or somewhere like Sun Peaks. Currently Nordica Enforcer 88.
- A 1 oh something for powder days in Australia - pretty rare. Should also double as a travel ski (2nd ski in bag) for a non Niseko or Alta esque destination. Currently Nordica Enforcer 104 but for travel purposes a narrower ski would have been better.
- A Daily driver for Niseko. Currently Salomon Stance 96.
- A Niseko powder ski - currently DPS Wailer A110.
- An AT ski - currently Salomon QST 92.
What is this "thin the quiver" of which you speak?What’s your rule about when to thin the quiver?