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When to crayon and not to crayon wax?

anders_nor

Making fresh tracks
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I've usually done the normal drip routine on skis for the last say 20 something years, which of course is a bit messy, was waxing skis having a buddy over he asked me why I wasn't just rubbing it on crayon style, I thought the wax I used was way to hard, but playing around with the new ps8, and hs8 fluor free stuff, crayon method was super easy.


Someone wanna educate me on the downsides?The obvious would be if you had really dirty bases I guess, but apart from that, there surely has to be some significant downsides? I've done a few skis with crayon now for testing, and the lack of mess on floor, the wax saving is huuuuge, and very little mess left on skis sidewall, so little I dont have to mask the sidewalls ( I dont like wax leftovers)

I was searching around trying to figure it out, and found @Philpug 's "hotel room" way with fiberlene between iron and base as well.
 

cantunamunch

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If you're using an additive wax like moly or graphite, crayon doesn't work so well for spreading the additive unless you cork before ironing.

Otherwise *shrug* use what you like. I'm in the 'use cheap wax, use LOTS' camp, especially when dealing with soft waxes in the 8+ range. Read: most drip-waxers are actually not using enough wax.
 

CraigBro

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Haven’t came across a downside yet, plenty of upside. Crayon, iron, maybe fiberlene if I am listening to a long podcast or have a whiskey, nylon brush, and quick pass with cloth and shopvac brush attachment...

Just recreational here, with 40 days this season and my wife started skiing too, so now increased ski waxing work. I just need them to not stick and to keep the bases from burning. Using general purpose swix flouro free wax btw. Contemplating DPS treatment on my touring skis too.
 

raytseng

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cold crayon may put on too little and a lot of arm work
dripping leaves to many uneven blobs that you have to remelt and hot iron may hit patches of bare base
so...
hot touch method!
 
Last edited:

KingGrump

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My daily wax until the end of Feb is usual CH6 and colder. Much easier to drip. Swix CH waxes are cheap. I am pretty good with the iron. Not much get over the side wall.
Towards the end of March, I'll switch to HF10 for CA snow. That stuff is sticky. HF10 is expensive. HF10, I will crayon before ironing.

A good iron makes a big difference.
 

Jacques

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I've usually done the normal drip routine on skis for the last say 20 something years, which of course is a bit messy, was waxing skis having a buddy over he asked me why I wasn't just rubbing it on crayon style, I thought the wax I used was way to hard, but playing around with the new ps8, and hs8 fluor free stuff, crayon method was super easy.


Someone wanna educate me on the downsides?The obvious would be if you had really dirty bases I guess, but apart from that, there surely has to be some significant downsides? I've done a few skis with crayon now for testing, and the lack of mess on floor, the wax saving is huuuuge, and very little mess left on skis sidewall, so little I dont have to mask the sidewalls ( I dont like wax leftovers)

I was searching around trying to figure it out, and found @Philpug 's "hotel room" way with fiberlene between iron and base as well.
No downside. Be sure bases are clean. That is always the case. Hard wax? Rub hard, or better to touch to iron, then rub.
7 to 10 grams per ski is plenty depending on surface area.
 

Plai

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+1 crayon method user here. I'm recreational skier and skiing non-sticking is my gauge.
+1 on fiberlene clean up for same reasons. (I don't brush either.)
Also, I'm using just simple paraffin waxes, no graphite or flouro additives.
Multiple passes with the iron will spread out the warmed up wax.

Haven't seen a down side in 5+ years. Great up side, no wax on the floor/ground to police.
Yes, my bases look very healthy.

YMMV
 

Steve

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I have been crayoning in LF7 and rubbing it in with a Wax Whiz all season. 45 days so far. My skis run great and the bases look great. I'd been hot waxing for years, now just do it early season with base prep wax and not again all season.
 

Steve

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Oh and that bar of LF7 is on it's second season now. I may never have to buy wax again.
 

KevinF

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I’ve always used the crayon method. It’s a bit hard with CH5 and with CH4 - well, everything with CH4 is difficult. But I rarely use those waxes; all the other Swix CH waxes work great with crayoning.
 

focker

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If I'm using CH4 or CH6 I melt it on, if I'm using something 'above' that I will crayon it on.

That's the best method for me anyway.
 

Delicious

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I crayon right before dripping. Essentially just a "heat buffer" to protect the base from the iron. I still scrape, and bruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuush. Then switch brushes and bruuuuuuuuush some more. I find that once I have fully saturated the base of a new ski that I can get away with very little reapplication going forward. Massive temp dips will most often prompt a fresh application. I'll often just brush out the bases from day to day.
 
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anders_nor

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Thanks good people on the forum, maybe I can make less mess now in the future, at least for the softer non fancy waxes!

The buildup on floor was(is) starting to create a mountain ridge.

Currently use a toko T14. so hey sponsored by toko forum works? ;)


My only motiviation for waxing is that I ski at lot. right now I have like 10-15 pairs I need to wax, and its more a chore for me, not enjoyment. I really really need to buy rotobrushes...


I find manufactureres of new skis greatly vary, some I can ski 10 days easy without wax, others look horrible after 1-2 days.
 

LiquidFeet

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I have been crayoning in LF7 and rubbing it in with a Wax Whiz all season. 45 days so far. My skis run great and the bases look great. I'd been hot waxing for years, now just do it early season with base prep wax and not again all season.
This is Mike DeSantis' preferred approach, right? I think I have a Wax Whiz that I got from him somewhere. I looked online and can't find it. Got a picture of this thing?
 

crgildart

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Spring conditions rubbing on warm snow wax works well for me.. Don't even cork it.. bumpy = structure. If traveling and no tuning gear I'll rub on cold or universal then cork it. Mediocre substitute for hot waxing but better than nothing.. especially for REALLY cold days when snow and ice will stick to ptex, expecialy with old warm wax still on the skis.
 

KevinF

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This is Mike DeSantis' preferred approach, right? I think I have a Wax Whiz that I got from him somewhere. I looked online and can't find it. Got a picture of this thing?

He calls it "pro-glide" now: https://skimd.com/pro-glide

I have (had?) one from him; I was never able to get any sort of decent results from using it. @Steve , do you just rub cold wax on your bases? and then rub it in with Mike's tool?
 

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