When to crayon and not to crayon wax?

[Uncle-A]

I have gone the other direction, more recently I have gone to the drip method and away from the crayon method when applying wax. If you are careful it doesn't have to be messy and drip all over the place.

 

[Noodler]

Really? I had never considered that, I'd think that ptex is harder than wax. I'll have to play around with that. I love the magnifying glass on the iPhone.

Completely depends on the quality/hardness of the base material versus the hardness of the cold wax. This happened to me about 10 years ago and so I've avoided doing it since. Probably doesn't happen in most situations, but something to be aware of as it is possible.

 

[Delicious]

I think we neglected the "when NOT to crayon" portion of this discussion...
My opinion, correct me if I'm wrong, would be NOT to rely on the crayon method for new ski prep, or post-grind prep. Crayon only makes sense on a previously saturated base. Thoughts?

 

[Jacques]

Personally, I avoid the crayon process (at least with harder waxes). A hard wax brick crayoned aggressively can impact your ski base structure. Get out a magnifying glass and see what a cold wax brick can do to your ski bases.

Ah...don't sweat the small stuff! Maybe mellowing out the peaks might be just what the Dr, ordered! Opposite rilling!

 

[anders_nor]

Firstly, thanks for all the input!

Testing out more waxes and different crayon methods, *definetly* very wax dependant, tested LF, HF PS , HS, CH all 8s. On some waxes it just takes to long time, I can't spend 5 minutes per ski crayoning just to save some wax.

The fiberlene method with a single sheet to absorb something at end after hotscrape though, wowie, where has this been all my life. Thanks guys!
Also for using little wax and spreading with fiberlene absorbed to drag it everywhere.. very nice!

Buddy gets to test 60mm skis tomorrow for his first time, testing the rossi LT/ST, before we graduate to FIS skis. Should be an interesting swap from the deacon84/102FR he owns

 

[snwbrdr]

Racewax FluoroMax (all-temp) wax I use, it doesn't drip on. It has to be crayon and/or hot-smeared on.

The rest of my normal waxes, I drip on. If I want to minimize some scraping, then the final couple of passes, I'll have a fiberlene under the iron to absorb some of the excess wax.

 

[snwbrdr]

Since this is a toko sponsored forum... here's a Toko video featuring Flat Top.

See 30 seconds for the hot-smear.

 

[Uncle-A]

I use to use the crayon method of applying wax but not long ago I switched to the drip method. The drip method is faster but uses more wax and I find that I tend to scrape more off with the drip method. But time is money so they say and if you are doing several pairs of skis it probably is better than the crayon method.

 

[jt10000]

Since this is a toko sponsored forum... here's a Toko video featuring Flat Top.

See 30 seconds for the hot-smear.

That's Ian Harvey - I've heard he's a very good guy.

 

[Wilhelmson]

I cold crayon to get some wax on the ski then a quick light drip to get the coverage. It is not messy at all.

 

[Jacques]

Touch and rub a dub dub, then iron.

 

[BC.]

That's Ian Harvey - I've heard he's a very good guy.

The Toko videos/Ian Harvey are excellent….I always recommend people to watch them that are interested in doing their own work..…very educational/succinct, to the point….and easy to follow.

 

[MikeHunt]

Since this is a toko sponsored forum

Same owner though right?

 

[snwbrdr]

The Toko videos/Ian Harvey are excellent….I always recommend people to watch them that are interested in doing their own work..…very educational/succinct, to the point….and easy to follow.

If you want to watch a video where a guy rambles on and on, watch the Willie Wiltz videos... flat top makes an appearance or two.