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Why Cant Your Ski Boots

LiquidFeet

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Hoping this clarifies the process:

--The bootfitter adds material to the lug to make it too thick.
--...then shaves away material on the top, or on both the top and the bottom, with the end result being that the top and bottom end up "tilted" to the same degree.
--The space between the top and bottom of the lug, from inside to outside of boot, is the same thickness across when done.
--And that thickness fits the binding requirements.
 

Philpug

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the reason that Cantology only produce shims up to 2.5 degrees for some models is that they have hollow lugs so there is a risk of ending up cutting into a void space (fixable with the right glue and skills but it don't look pretty)
I hate hate hate hollow lug boots. What, to save a couple if grams of plastic? It not only limits the lateral canting ability, but it also limits if you are dealing with a leg length discrepancy. Just at least make it solid at the lugs (from say the cross bar out).
IMG_8351.jpeg
 

cem

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Hoping this clarifies the process:

--The bootfitter adds material to the lug to make it too thick.
--...then shaves away material on the top, or on both the top and the bottom, with the end result being that the top and bottom end up "tilted" to the same degree.
--The space between the top and bottom of the lug, from inside to outside of boot, is the same thickness across when done.
--And that thickness fits the binding requirements.
close but not quite


solid sole boot

1 cut the desired angle on the boot sole (boot sole is now asymmetric and too thin for the binding)
2 add lifter to bottom (boot is still asymmetric and too thick for the binding)
3 use router on a table mounted at correct height for toe and heel to cut the top of the lug parallel to the bottom

boot with replaceable soles
1 add appropriate angled cantology shim, replace sole pad (the boot is now asymmetric and too thick for the binding)
2 use router on a table mounted at correct height for toe and heel to cut the top of the lug parallel to the bottom

really cant make it any less complex

any boot fitter still adding epoxy onto lugs to do this is probably still working somewhere in the 90's and should really update their knowledge, sure it might get done in an emergency or for testing on an old boot but is certainly not good practice (or IMO safe)
 

Philpug

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boot with replaceable soles
1 add appropriate angled cantology shim, replace sole pad (the boot is now asymmetric and too thick for the binding)
2 use router on a table mounted at correct height for toe and heel to cut the top of the lug parallel to the bottom
1a. Do NOT rout boot with Gripwalk soles, rout with DIN soles.
 

cem

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1a. Do NOT rout boot with Gripwalk soles, rout with DIN soles.
100% agree

although salomon have a new tool that allows you to route with the gripwalk soles on the boot.... currently it is not as accurate as i would like due to the locator pins being close to the seam on a larger cant which can throw things off but it is being reengineered
 

Philpug

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100% agree

although salomon have a new tool that allows you to route with the gripwalk soles on the boot.... currently it is not as accurate as i would like due to the locator pins being close to the seam on a larger cant which can throw things off but it is being reengineered
I was going to put that caviot in. I played with it at the show. I would need to put it on the router with some test boots before customers. My only concern is that even now with the standard ISO 23223 there are still too many creative liberties being taken with Gripwalk designs.

IMG_6962.jpeg


IMG_6963.jpeg


IMG_6964.jpeg
 

cem

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I was going to put that caviot in. I played with it at the show. I would need to put it on the router with some test boots before customers. My only concern is that even now with the standard ISO 23223 there are still too many creative liberties being taken with Gripwalk designs.

View attachment 176212

View attachment 176213

View attachment 176214
thats the puppy, note that the locator pins sit right on the seam between the shell and the sole when a large cant is uses so can slip (badly)


Safest option, assess and cut with iso 5355 soles and then put the gripwalk soles back on
 

Tricia

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Not to muddy the waters, but there are always those who don't need much work at all, then there are others who need some, and a few others who have an extreme issue, like this guy.
 

Seldomski

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I hate hate hate hollow lug boots. What, to save a couple if grams of plastic?
Constant or near constant wall thickness is easier to injection mold, so it's not necessarily a weight saving measure. It likely makes for a faster and/or cheaper production process since you don't have to wait for the big thick sole to cool at the same rate as everything else. Uneven cooling rates in the plastic leads to warping or fracture of the part. You are limited in production speed by whatever takes the longest to cool.

So yes, it is about being cheap, but not for the sake of saving plastic.
 

Philpug

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So yes, it is about being cheap, but not for the sake of saving plastic.
I was not so much referring to a financial cost savings but a weight savings. Especially when we get into Grilamid boots when grams are used as advertising fodder.
 

Philpug

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Philpug

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Who buys that sort of boot by weight?
You would be surprised how many people mention that they hate heavy boots ... but brands can trip over performance to save grams. As much as they say they want to be bootfitter friendly, they are, only to a point.
 

Uncle-A

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I would like to see some in process photos of the boot being ground if anyone has any.
 

KingGrump

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That Is a well equipped shop, they have come a long way from the shop I worked with one press and a heat gun to punch a boot.

Phil has a nice set up.
The boot guy I go to has a 10' x 10' work area for 2 work stations. It's set up really nice with all the necessary equipment. Equipment is easy. The hard part is the know how.
 

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