One other thought dirt on your nuts......
Take that however you want
Take that however you want
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Why does this keep happening to my studs?
- Thread starter François Pugh
- Start date
The Sports Fury was a Plymouth the Dodge was a Cornet if my memory is correct.
Why do bike pedals?
Comet was the Mercury version of a Ford Falcon , wasn't it?
I always put nickel based anti seize on my wheel studs.
Never had one fail to hold torque.
Never had one loosen.
Never had one gall or seize.
Never had one fail to hold torque.
Never had one loosen.
Never had one gall or seize.
I’ve never understood this either but it was also common with Plymouth in the ‘60s. I had a ‘64 Sport Fury and it had left handed threads on the drivers side.
I change over my own tires, similar to what you do. I am a mech. eng. and have a lot of experience designing press fit components, aka press in studs.
From my experience, if a shop removes my wheels, they are a $#%^@ to get off the next time I do it myself, the impact wrenches and air tools used by shops put them on very tight. Avoid that if at all possible. (One shop I no longer use always did a free brake check (which removes the wheels) so they could sell you a brake job that you really didn't need right away. That always caused the nuts to be excessively torqued on.
The why it happens is pretty easy. The nut gets some corrosion. It requires more torque to get off. The stud is a press fit into the hub or flange of the axle. Press fits are very precise and not all machining is done to the necessary precision. All machining has tolerances, and in the case of the spinning studs, the press fit was out of tolerance. The combination of a stuck nut and a loose press fit stud will potentially cause the press fit joint to spin if the removal torque gets too large. If the car was in waranty, Ask for a new axle. Sounds like yours isn't, so then you must weld the stud to the flange from the back side. Could be expensive proposition, depends on the car.
How to prevent it. I use some sort of lube whenever I change tires, usually WD40. Antisieze is probably even better. If you know which stud spins, mark it and take that one off first everytime. If it comes off last its holding the most compressive force. Torque that nut less than all the others, maybe 10-20% less. When the wheel is off, run a die over the stud to clean up the thread as much as possible. Get new lug nuts for that stud so you have pristine thread and no corrosion. Lastly, put some foam rubber in the wheel recess or do what you can to keep salt water from getting to the nut and causing corrosion.
I have seen plenty of cars driving around with 4/5 lug nuts on, I don't know how "unsafe" it is, but percentage wise is 20% less hold on force.
I am curious, if the stud spins, you are not getting the wheel off with recessed wheel openings, what do you do in that case??
( I guess take to a shop and have the nut burned off?)
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I don't know why cars use studs anyway. Most cars I've owned have lug bolts. Problem solved.
The BMW E30 I have raced has had studs installed for faster wheel changes, and those studs have to be replaced yearly. I have seen cars lose a wheel as the studs have failed.
The BMW E30 I have raced has had studs installed for faster wheel changes, and those studs have to be replaced yearly. I have seen cars lose a wheel as the studs have failed.
I am pretty sure studs are used so you don't have to hold the wheel in the air during installation, once you have the wheel on two studs. Loose studs are a $%^#& to deal with, though for the convenience.
My car uses the studs so the lug nuts have something to screw onto. What do your lug nuts go on? Or are they really lug bolts?
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They are bolts. And I do use anti-seize on them btw. It can be a pain getting the first bolt in. That's why they switch them out for studs for racing.
Yes, the Comet was a Mercury but the Cornet was a Dodge. Doug did you read this without your glasses?
Engineers specify studs instead of bolts for threads that will be used repeatedly.
That way you don't wear out the threads in the hubs when changing tires frequently.
it is also much more convenient to hang the tire on the studs when putting them on.
That way you don't wear out the threads in the hubs when changing tires frequently.
it is also much more convenient to hang the tire on the studs when putting them on.
On a bike pedal, there is relative rotational movement between the pedal and the crank during normal operation. That relative motion will serve to unscrew the pedal from the crank. But if the pedal has LH threads, then the pedal will tend to tighten due to the relative motion of the pedal and crank. The axis of rotation is also the axis of the screw threads.
However, on an automobile wheel there is no intended relative rotary motion between the wheel and the hub in normal operation. The axis of rotation is offset from the axis of the threaded fasteners on the bolt-circle of the wheel. Because of this, there is no advantage to RH or LH threads.
No, on my phone. Good phone, bad eyes.Yes, the Comet was a Mercury but the Cornet was a Dodge. Doug did you read this without your glasses?
Comet, Cornet. Just tie the r over to the n and it's an m.
Touchė
I was half awake when I asked question. Silly me, thinking without a cup 'o' joe in me.
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It's the same for most but not all bottom bracket cups. Somehow they still unthread themselves anyway.
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You gotta use lube. I use Dumonde liquid grease, because I'm a bike nut and it's in the cabinet.
Yes, you will over-tighten things by doing this, since lug nut torque is just a secondary spec for the amount of "stretch" that is desired for the stud.
Reduce your torque by a few foot pounds.
Perfect? Maybe not, but it beats the heck out of seized/broken studs!
Yes, you will over-tighten things by doing this, since lug nut torque is just a secondary spec for the amount of "stretch" that is desired for the stud.
Reduce your torque by a few foot pounds.
Perfect? Maybe not, but it beats the heck out of seized/broken studs!
As a mechanic, I would advise NO LUBE on the threads unless called for in the manual. I would stay away from the dealer, but if you do go, talk the service Mgr, and tell them what has happened and request only a torque wrench and no power on any of your wheels. You say it changes sides, hav enough had the same issue with any of the ones you replaced?
