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Year of the Core Shot! Base Repair Gun or Iron

jmills115

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I fix all my own core shots. I also work in a ski shop as a tech so I fix a lot of other people's core shots, too.
I’ve seen a couple ugly repairs a buddy did, and how it looked after taking it to a shop to fix his work.
His thinking was a quick repair, ski it a few (20 knowing him) more days, and then do it right.
 

Doug Briggs

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I'm sorry I misunderstood. I am usually working on new damage. If I get in a ski with failing P-Tex, I'll often ask (sometimes do gratis) if they want it repaired. Typically the failing P-Tex jobs are ones that were large and cracked over time or ones along an edge. I think that P-Tex applied with an iron is more durable than P-Tex that was dripped by burning.
 

Doug Briggs

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Regarding core shots and repairs in general. It is better to do a poor DIY with P-Tex than do nothing if you are going to wax your skis. Wax in a damaged section compromises the repair.
 

oldfashoned

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I also have the KUU iron. Kind of expensive for what it is. But it works. Takes a little practice and the repairs are solid.
 

Scrundy

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I’ve got a pest core shot on edge, tried everything mentioned above and find epoxy works best. It wears out due to friction, so I reapply now and then
 
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bremmick

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I don't have this iron in particular, but for core shots near the edge or not, you need metal-grip. It can only be applied with a soldering iron, never burned. I always use a soldering iron on core shots both at home and in the shop.


Does a soldering iron get too hot and burn it, I've heard wood burner tools will do that. Wondering if these specific tools run at lower temps.
 

Jacques

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Does a soldering iron get too hot and burn it, I've heard wood burner tools will do that. Wondering if these specific tools run at lower temps.
See my video.
 

Doug Briggs

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Does a soldering iron get too hot and burn it, I've heard wood burner tools will do that. Wondering if these specific tools run at lower temps.
My soldering iron has a temperature control. I think the small white circle on the Kuu is a temperature control.

I use a higher temperature for the metalgrip than I do for P-Tex. I found the temps I use by trial and error.

IMG_20200325_175221224.jpg
 

mdf

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I think the small white circle on the Kuu is a temperature control.
Huh.
The equivalent circle on mine is black and I never noticed it. It definitely has a slot and looks like it would turn, but I'm guessing it is meant for infrequent calibration/adjustment, not for day-to-day control. Nothing on the packaging mentioned it. I've done metal grip and ptex ribbon (or bar) with the as-shipped setting.

The spade tip makes things easier. If you already have a soldering iron, you could just get the tips:
digi-key link
 

Doug Briggs

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I don't have access to it right now, but the shop has a new iron and I think it has that kind of dial. I'll look when I can to see if it is a temperature adjustment.

My iron is specifically designed to be adjustable which I consider a huge benefit. Using a lower temp on the P-Tex avoids remelting the metalgrip. I agree that the spade tip is the best. Mine came with a chisel tip about 5.5 mm wide. It works well. The older one we had at the shop had a spade tip. I liked it a lot.
 
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Eric Edelstein

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Tognar sells it in rolls.
Artech has metalgrip for $5 per foot.. Definitely use it as the first layer over any exposed metal edge material...then fill the wound with PTEX over the metalgrip... If the wound is serious.. a base patch with an appropriate epoxy (West Marine GFlex 650 or 655) will do the trick.
 

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